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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)

does anybody know if there is an after market pre built replacement trunk or something? something i could just bolt right in without fabrication? Ive never heard of such and doubt there are any......

Other than the one hole you mentioned, how bad is the rust? Is the metal getting thin? If it's still solid, I'd just sand it down and put some POR-15 or other rust eliminator on it. You can always get a trunk floor from a wrecking yard. Usually when I have a car that's got some serious rust through, I cut out the area, fabricate a patch with some sheet metal, and rivet it in. It's the easy way out, but it works.

yeah. i thought about the patching thing. I heard that even if you cant seee the rust after sanding it down, it could have already spread through the metal elsewhere, which is what i was worried about.....
it is a decent amount of rust covering the trunk, pretty much both walls completly and the floor....

oh and is por-15 suppose to help prevent the spread of the rust as well?!?

por-15 is some AMAZING stuff!.. its nearly inpenatrable to scratching and it loves moisture so it eats up some rust, figuratively speaking

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64 Convertible Dart GT

A) Rust is not an active, living thing. It requires moisture, air, and a substance to react with, (your vehicle metal). It does not "migrate" through the metal under the paint. It will "dig in", so to speak, and cause pits in the surrounding surface.

If you sand down an area around the offending section, both top and bottom, then clean it up, you should be able put in a patch, cover it over with POR-15, and be good to go. The POR-15 will seal out both moisture and air, thus....no rust. It's recommended that you weld in the patch, but riveting will do what you want.

I suggest you fabricate the patch, even drilling your rivet holes, but give the overlapping edges a good coat of POR-15 right before you rivet it into place. This will seal up the seam between the old and new metal, plus you'll be putting on a sealer coat over the top of that. Once the POR-15 has dried well, you should be able to paint right over it.

While your under the car dealing with that, take a good look around. You may find more to deal with. Pay special attention to the frame rails at the rear shackles.

Yes, there is a rear trunk floor patch panel available, but it is usually the entire spare tire well. I forget the supplier(s) at the moment, but it shouldn't be hard to find.

Roger

I used POR15 in my trunk a couple of years ago and it is holding up very well. I painted over it and that is doing well too. Of course it has only been a couple of years.

John

I used Zerorust on my Valiant...it's sold out of JC Whitney. Pretty much the equivalent to POR-15. There's no shame in using a pop rivet gun If you do, just make sure you seal the edges of the patch, plus you can always just drill out the rivets and use a welder if you feel like it. I recommend aluminum rivets.

why not weld around and over some rivets?!?!

ok so por-15 is just suppose to put over the metal and create a seal so that moisture does not get to the metal? that sounds better than w hat i thought it was! I use to hear it was just a "rust remover" or something.
But my only concern was in the trunk, at the bottom of the walls, theres that small canyon type thing where is seems as though the wall curves underneath the floor. I was concerned about being able to sand out any rust getting in there because of the small gap....

I did not see what body style your car is, but it sounds like that curved "wall" you describe is your quarter panel. If the rust is bad enough, you will probably see it eating its way out through the exterior paint job, beginning with pin holes and then worse. If it's not coming through, you might be lucky and only have surface rust.

I'm only familiar with the A-body, and others might be the same way; you're right, the quarter panels and trunk floor extensions come together in a very tight crease. Take a look under that area and you will see a drain opening. For my son's Dart Sport we started out with a crevice tool on our shop vac to get out the bulk of any trash and debris. We found a lost tire tool and a couple of socket wrenches. Then we followed up with a long-tip blower tool with compressed air. Watch for flying debris (keep the shop vac handy). You might blow back up through the drains I mentioned to make sure they are clear.

If you are dealing with surface rust only, use a putty knife or some other tool to scrape the loose rust scale off. Next, take to it with rough sandpaper or a green Scotch Bright pad and get off as much rust as you can reach. I leave it up to you on what to do next, because I don't have any experience using the rust encapsulating products like POR-15 and others. You might look into using a rust killer instead, then prime and paint. I've heard of some product called Ospho (?), but I haven't used it before. If it converts the rust, I guess you shouldn't have any more problems in the future.

If you have rust cancer showing through the quarter panels, that's a different story and is the subject of another topic, "How do I patch rusted lower quarter panels?"

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

It really hurts me that a lot of you slixers consider riveting or even making glassfiber replacement parts on a Mopar product

Using POR15 or similar products is a good way to go when cancer have not spread too much.

Replacing and welding is the only way to go to in my opinion. But welding is what I do...for money...

I suppose a lot of A-bodies or /6-cars don't get the credit they deserve

http://www.moparkent.se/US.htm

Trunk extensions are kind of hard to access if you're looking to sand them, just make sure there's no crud at the bottoms to trap moisture.

I fiberglassed the rusted trunk floor in my Duster. Strong as steel but soooo much lighter.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2