Hi I'm new and need some good solid info without a lot of opinion.

I have a 64 dart 270 with a 225, offenhauser dual 1bbl intake with carter bbs I want to upgrade my exhaust manifold system. I have read all the post on this subject and I mean everything under headers, clifford, hooker, dutras etc.

My plan was to use the following, clifford headers-55-0010 Mopar High Starter Headers- with a y collector to a single pipe and muffler. I want to stick with the single exhaust and muffler set up just because.

The following are my concerns:

Regadingregardingds;
1-cliffords customer and quality service ( I am aware of the suggested ordering process)
2-the flanges not matching the flanges on the offenhauser. ( I have seen post with "they're perfect" to "they don't fit with out mods". )
3-coating not lasting, chrome and black
4-closing off the heat riser intake on the bottom of the offenhauser intake

Regarding dutras;
1- Starter clearence withoclearance I have the high,stock starter and don't want to switch to a mini)
2-heat riser connection mods without good core and clearence again
clearencen excess of $500) wow!
4- Whats the advantage to using only the front dual and then am I required to cut and modify the stock manifold?
5-closing off the heat riser intake on the bottom of the offenhauser intake if I use both duals without the core

Regarding Hookers;
1-The flange
2-bottom clearance ( I want to lower the front 1-1/2" to 2" with 14" wheels but slightly wider than stock)(front disc upgrade coming soon)
3-18 gauge steel vs. 16 gauge-interior rust from condensation?
4-coatings to prevent exterior rust
5-closing of the hear riser intake on the bottom of the offenhauser intake

Regarding MP headers
1-nobody seems to like these at all and they seem to need alot of mods

Can ana lot address these issues in a way that is less confusing than all the previous posts?

Thank you so much

Katrina

_________________
I'm a hot chick with a cool ride!

Hye katrina

I made a headers swap some time ago. the only thing that decided to go thru the pain of actually getting the highest reputated muffler shop around custom building those headers and all the pipes for me was that I'm from argentina and customs here are believe to be some sort of brach opened by Captain Drake (they're burglars)

If you want a good performance w/o concerns for rust, or how they last, I strongly suggest Dutra Duals. They're designed to fit perfectly under your pretty much stock conditions, you'll get extra durability and that extra performance you're seeking after especially with that 2 1 bbl setup you already installed. If you want to go heated intake, use the standard dutra duals setup. If you wanna dream of dual turbocharging your ride, and you don't mind giving away some extra mileage, go with 2 front casting dutra duals section.

One funny thing, the best slant six equipped car we had avalible down here (starting in 74 and ending in 78) the Dodge Polara RT hardtop 2dr, had a setup exactly like the dutra duals. Not to say doc got his inspiration from that, since I know there's no such thing as him knowing beforehand what ws going on in argentina. Local Chrysler-Fevre chairman was a reputated long-careered slant six racer and he invented and modified many things that were (are? not anymore) abalible down here in argentina. Like this special exhaust, or the holley 1922, or some other tricky things like the destroked, heavy cast block, forged connecting rods, and flat top pistons, low negative deck height mill that equipped that very same Dodge Polara RT's 2 doors hardtops.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Hi Juan. Thanks for the info and insight. My concern with the dutras is the info on this sight.

http://www.dutra.org/doug/doug-sl6-exha ... -duals.htm

The mods to the block and/or to the read dual is really a concern for me. And something I reaally would like to avoid. especially witht he cost!

_________________
I'm a hot chick with a cool ride!

Since you are in So Cal, I would go with the Clifford.
You can probably drive down to Temecula, and deal with them face to face to avoid customer service nightmares. You could also check e-bay.
You could have them coated before you install them (even though rust shouldn't be a concern).
I don't know about closing off the heat riser. Why do you want to do this? It doesn't leak and you don't have to worry about cold starts. I have an Offy (4bbl) intake and I haven't touched the heat riser.
The flange is good on most of them. I have only heard one person with a problem.
You save about $200.

I don't know anything about Hooker headers except that hardly anyone uses them.
The MP headers are only good for '67 and up.

Hope this helps.

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Howdy, Kat! I spent some time looking at the Dutra site (again), and my preferred method of doing the dual dutras would be to whack off that lump on the block. I would be more concerned with the starter being cooked. Having not seen installed pics of the various headers, showing starter clearance, I don't know if Doug's setup is any worse that anyone else's. Seems like it would be a non-issue with a low-mount-starter block, but my '63 170 coupe has a high mount, as I suppose does your 270.

Re: your question about the 16ga. VS 18ga tubes, lower numbers are thicker gauge in sheet and tube metal gauge sizes. Thus the 16ga tubes should be more durable. I would think that with quality coating, that would be minimized, though the 16 ga might be a little quieter.

The issues I'll probably look into are: cost, starter clearance, & distinctive sound (which I think would go to the "tri Y" headers with dual pipes).

I probably won't get to my 170 project 'til this winter. I'm spending the summer finishing and cruising my "Arrest Me" red '64 ragtop. It was a super six car, but now has a 318, cam, duals w/stock manifolds, 904 auto w/ pushbuttons, 14" wheels, large bolt pattern w/ front discs and 8 & 1/4" rear (needs lower ratio and suregrip)

Meanwhile, I'll be watching this forum for more info to make better choices. There's a bunch of really helpful & knowledgable folks here!

_________________
'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Or why not just modify the stock exhaust manifold for the rear 3 and not have to worry about it? Just a thought. I recently did this with the exact setup you have and it worked fine. I can send you some pics if you like

BTW I'm back! California is awfully nice...

MJ

NewLancerMan, you're suggesting cutting the stock exh. manifold, welding or bolting a plate over the cut and buying the front three casting from Dutra, right???

_________________
'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Hey NewLancerMan, I would like to see how did you do that, please send me some pics of your work.

avenger2040@msn.com

_________________
Mopar Muscle is well defend by Slant Six!

Valiant Duster 1971

1) No such thing as a 270 engine. 170, 198, 225.
2) All passenger car slant-6s and most truck slant-6s have the starter in the same ("high") location. It is only the trucks and vans with the LA 727 automatic and adaptor plate that have the starter down low (below the oil pan rail).

I can only think of one situation in which headers would not be considerably more of a hassle than Dutra Duals, and that situation is a RHD car!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Lots of dart 270's out there......

_________________
1969 Dart.

That is correct. Pics to follow. Don't have any closeups at the moment, but I can take more if you tell me what you need.

Avenger PM me with what you need

SSDan, I was referring to the model or series or trim level of the car. I mentioned my "170" as I don't know what engine the P.O. put in it, just that it's not the original. I wasn't aware that the low mount starter was a truck deal, thanks. And yeah. boy, a Right Hand Drive slant early A body would surely get mighty crowded on the right side! Is that why the Aussie hemi six holer wasn't a slant, do you suppose?

_________________
'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Not as crowded as you might think. They all used remote-mount oil filters and a special oil pump with two pipe thread fittings for the remote filter lines, rather than a filter mounting pad. The steering box takes up the space that would've been occupied by the LHD oil filter. The exact location of the remote oil filter varied by year, model and market.
I think they didn't slant the Hemi-6 'cause it is an oversquare, short-stroke design.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

For a street performance SL6 car, it is better to use the split cast iron manifolds instead of headers.
Why?
-They fit the car with no ground clearance or other interference issues.
-It is easier to get thick, cast iron manifolds to seal and stay sealed.
-Headers rust-out, crack or burn-thru over time.
-Dutra Duals with manifold heat gives better cold engine operation.
DD

Anyone got a picture of the Aussie oil pump? Just curious to see one. It would seem like a good piece to use if you want a remote mount filter?


Rick