I was just looking at this issue on my 61 last night. The aftermarket
single pot MC that came off has a recess for the pushrod - it bottoms
with the pushrod in a half inch - The MP disc/drum MC the pushrod
bottoms at a quarter inch - which just makes up for the adapter plate
spacing the MC out into the engine compartment.

The issue I am trying to assess is the "throw". Is the 61 pushrod long
enough to get full piston travel?

The MP 15/16 bore MBC has a "throw" (the amount the piston moves in the MC bore) of 1.4 inches - With the pedal arm being about 10 inches
and the pushrod being about 1.75 inches lower than the pivot of the pedal
arm, it seems to me the pedal ends up a MINIMUM of 1.4 x 10/1.75 inches
from the floor to get full piston travel. That puts the minimum pedal
height about 8 inches.

Anyone have a published spec on the "throw" of the stock single
pot MC for 60-62 ?

Keep talking here guys. =)

so andy have you had anyone using the earliest A bodies use your adapter with success? I'm not against it, but remember SSD had so many problems and wanted to avoid that same headache.

I used a aluminum manual disk brake master cylinder from a '80 Volare. The MC mounting flange is not flush with the piston, but is forward about 3/8". I made my adapter out of 3/8" aluminum plate. This allowed the whole unit to be flush mounted to the firewall. So the stock push rod works correctly.

From what I can tell, all of the commercial adapters make use of the power disk brake master cylinder. There are mounting differances between the two. One is the apparent offset of the mounting flange, the other is that mounting studs are located on the MC.

The MC I am working with is the 15/16 inch bore Mopar Performance one.
I have the Mopar Performance adapter plate and the push rod kit - Like
Dan wrote - the pushrod kit is way too long for these early a cars. The
stock pushrod still looks to me like the best bet.

The MP MC has the mounting flange 3/8 inch forward also the adapter
plate is 1/4 inch thick - so the MC actually comes back through the
firewall an eighth.

After freeing up my old siezed single pot cylinder, I was able to determine
the throw to be 1 3/16 inches which is shorter than the MP MC. This
will require a slightly higher pedal to get full travel.

The "Guest" above was me also

Relic lover did you ever get this to work? I'm now trying to decide on my MC and am tempted to give Andy's adapter a try. here's a close up of it. What do you guys think?



Also I checked for master brake cylinders for an 85 new yorker and they all seemed like power brake models. Anyone have an idea for the aluminum one that is not power? Here's what I found: http://tinyurl.com/a36ea

The 80 volare had a 1 1/32" manual brake model Bendix reman Part Number: R11821: http://tinyurl.com/cmttf But Bendix's website lists a R11821 for manual brakes, but doesn't say what the bore is. I'm totally confused at this point

Also, a strange True torque model that says it has a 21mm bore. My calculations put that at like 13/16"? That seems somewhat strange unless the bore they are quoting is something different (or my math is challenged)
http://tinyurl.com/94oas

But I think I want a smaller bore than that, either 15/16" or 1". Any others?

15/16: Raybestos MC36406 $65 from rockauto.com
1": Wagner r75800 for $20 from Partsamerica.com

Those are really my two choices at this point due the pushrod problem. IF anyone has a cure for the 60-62 pushrod blues, I'm all ears

Thanks

I use Andy's adapter on two of my cars with the 1 1/32" MC.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

your earliest car is a 64 right? The problem seems to be that the pushrod on the earlier 60-62 become too short when used with the plate, and yet the adjustable rod is too long at its shortest length. its a pickle

Lou, does that ARE plate have a recess machined in it? that would bring the MC closer to make the stock pushrod work.

Yep, mine is a 64. Forgot about the rod issue. You can get an adjustable rod from MP, or maybe at magnumhp.com?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

pushrod length difficulties on '60-'62 A-bodies

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I really like that link since it leads to the same thread that the link is posted in. Dan you should go back and edit you earlier post to include a link to your most recent post kinda like a circle.

Update: No luck on the Wagner MBC.

I got it today and both of the reservoirs are the same size. Here are some pics I took of it.



So now I'm back in the mix for a MBC. Does anyone know of a 1"? Otherwise I'm going to a 15/16.

Reliclover did you ever get a solution to the problem?

MJ

That happens sometimes, with long threads!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's all fine and dandy folks, but I just want to find a good solution Is anyone running the 15/16 raybestos model?

so the stock pushrod is too short to use the late M/C adapter? is it the same rod as a later model car? i've never owned a toad, but there must be a solution. what threads are on the MP rod? RH or LH? if they are RH threads it looks like maybe menko could just cut more threads closer to the eyelet and then cut down the length of the rod? i know mancini sells an adjustable rod under their own part number, maybe it's different?
when i swapped in an MP M/C on my '70 swinger, i used one of andy's adapters, and IIRC the M/C piston was further back and was close to the stock position with the adapter so my stock pushrod fit just fine. i forget which bore i used, but i wound up with a "high, hard one" with the viper calipers in front and rear drums out back.

-james

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Nope. With the rod adjusted all the way short, the eyelet is right up against the end of the internally-threaded portion of the rod. There is no more room to make more threads.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.