I feel a bit hesitant to ask this 'cuz I suspect the answer, but here goes. I recently converted my 65 Dart wagon over to late model disc brakes. I have done this conversion sucessfully on two other occasions. This time though the brake pedal is real soft and I can't figure out why. I used all new cylinders and calipers, pads and shoes, I bench bled all three of the new masters I've tried, and I must have used up two quarts of fluid trying to get the air out. The only thing that isn't according to Hoyle is that I used rotors from an Aspen everything else is 100% 75 Dart. The car is drivable and stops fine its just the spongy pedal that doesn't inspire confidence. It sure feels like air in there but I just can't face another bleeding 'till you guys say "bleed it again dude." Thanks for any help.

...how 'bout them hoses?

D/W

P. S. - What kind of master cylinder?

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

My truck was like that when I replaced the brake lines............

Get some speed bleeders (or make one with an aquarium check valve (rubber flapper type)) and get a long long section of aquarium air line....

Once you're sure all the old fluid is out of the system, you run the aquarium air line back to the master cylinder to recycle the brake fluid (it's all new by now, so it doesn't matter). With the check valve and recirculation, you don't have to keep topping the master, and deal with the on/off of the bleeder valve. Then keep pumping and pumping and pumping...........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Everything is brand spanking new. The current master is one with the smaller bore for power applications as suggested by Tom Condran in his excellent book "Performance Handling For Mopars". I'll look into those speed bleeders though. I've never needed any thing but the stock stuff and a jar in the past, but I'll try anything now. Thanks

It could also be that you have bad front/rear bias. This would happen if your caliper piston diameters and rear wheel cylinder are not well matched.

Do the front tires lock up first, or rears? Try in the rain if you don't want to be hard on parts.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Is it the old timey, or the aluminum/plastic reservior type. I have a hint for you if it is the latter...

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Its the old timey cast iron variety. I don't know the piston size of the calipers vs. the rear cylinders. I understand the lockup issue but would that also result in the symptoms I'm experiencing?

make sure the calipers are on the correct side. if they aren't, you will never get all the air out. the bleeders should be at the top of the caliper. an old jar and vacuum tube works for me every time.

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

Aspens take the same rotors as a 75 Dart! (73 up A body, 76-up F/M/J (Aspen, Volare, Diplomat,Mirada,etc) all the same number!

Er...be careful with that book. It has some good information and some wrong information. I would not characterise it as "excellent".

One question: Are your calipers installed so the bleeders point up at the sky, or down at the ground?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The bleeders are skyward. And your caution about Condran's book is well taken.

I have one of the new aluminum/plastic m/c 's, and I am having a heck of a time getting the pedal firm. I just put in ALL new lines, and have checked for leaks on the connections. I am using a mitevac, and doing it myself. Any other hints? I am ready to try the long piece of hose trick.

Thanks,

Greg