cold start on my 75 dart is great. however, if i drive 10 minutes, shut her off, and then start her 10 minutes later i have to give her a lot of gas when i crank the engine and then keep giving her gas to keep her from stalling out. thats 15 seconds of wasted gasoline. any ideas?

she has a rough idle, i just ordered new ngk plugs the $3 apiece kind (they come in $2, $3 and $6) and put bg44k in the gas. will do dan's "italian tune-up" and then check with tach, timing light etc after the bg 44k does its thing to get her tuned up.

also on the tune up, i have a holley 1945 and the fuel to air is set at 1 3/4 turns out. i was thinking of giving it 1/8 turn every week to make the mix a little bit leaner to try and get better gas mileage. how would i know when to stop?

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God took you away, then brought you back to me.

if engine warm and have to feed gas to keep it running.
maybe the idle mixture too lean, or vacuum leak on
carb base, vac hoses, intake manifold.

It sounds like a choke pulling off too quickly, but 10 minutes is a long time for an engine to warm up. My '73 D-100 used to do that when it was new, but I disconnected the electric choke assist and it helped somewhat. However, by the time it had run for 10 minutes, the engine was warm enough not to need choking.

I solved an issue just like this in a friend´s car yesterday. Check out what I found, may help you

A) the carb's base whas cracked and welded, but the job was lousy and the "new" aluminium added was porous as hell and allowed plenty of air into the mani. Vac leak #1
B) it had several ports here and there and there where 2 manifold vacuum ports unused and unplkugged (vac leaks #'s 2 and 3)
C) the float was missing the retainer clip on a sidehung style holley 2 barrels (you can kiss air correction and correct metering good bye)
D) he halfassed the repair on this carb and narrowed the solution to drill out the idle air bleeds and fit it with .5mm idle air bleeds (like connecting the gas hose directly to the idle passages.... )

So I'll chase for vacuum leaks, improper air correction parameters (like float adjustment) and poorly calibration in general, especially if you swapped in a non-specific carb.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

i got a remanufactured holley 1945 6000 miles ago. seal on it should be tight. all carb hoses are new and have been checked for leak. so i should check intake manifold? where do i look?

also, how do i discern if my fuel/air is too lean?

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God took you away, then brought you back to me.