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 Post subject: Mopar elec ignition
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 9:36 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 12:23 am
Posts: 53
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anyone used the mopar points to elec conversion kit? what all is involved and how does this kit differ from swapping from a donor?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 10:38 pm 
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The difference is that the Mopar kit contains a distributor with an advance curve unsuitable for street use. Either the MP or a street distributor can be tweaked for better performance and mileage, but you're a lot closer to the goal with the street distributor.

And you're further ahead to use an HEI module instead of the Chrysler box (eliminate the ballast resistor with HEI)

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Last edited by SlantSixDan on Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 8:41 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 12:23 am
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so what would be the best way to get rid of the points in my car. in the past i have always used DUI www.performancedistributors.com and they are awesome. they have the coil built into the cap, and they only require a single 12v wire running to them. anything like this available for the SL6?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 10:03 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 12:23 am
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so am i correct in assuming the mopar kit is built more to upgrade to high performance, rather than just retrofit to electronic ignition. can i buy the mopar kit and run stock weights and springs?


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 Post subject: Yep..
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:35 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
so am i correct in assuming the mopar kit is built more to upgrade to high performance, rather than just retrofit to electronic ignition. can i buy the mopar kit and run stock weights and springs?

Pretty much a drop in for the late crowd and has retrofit stuff for the point guys...

The key thing to do is to swap a heavier spring into the MP distributor to get it to be "all in" at 2300+ instead of "off idle"/1200 rpm.... The last one I did I put a medium spring out of a 400 RB distributor (the lighter of the two) and that dialed it in at 2200-2300 for 66 Dart's twin weber setup...

Depending on the price of a "kit"...you might do well just to grab the conversion harness from a Mopar dealer ($30+), then buy a Cardone remanf. (about $50+)...I just bought a Cardone for a "1976 Duster" and it came with a nice 9L governor (18 degrees of mech adv.) and I need to swap a spring out for Rob Simmons and it's a 'done deal' for his car...


-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
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Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Quote:
so am i correct in assuming the mopar kit is built more to upgrade to high performance, rather than just retrofit to electronic ignition. can i buy the mopar kit and run stock weights and springs?
It's more or less a retrofit for a stock electronic ignition, with an aggressive advance curve. The module may have slightly higher RPM capabilities than a stocker, too, but the high performance boxes are also available separately.
Quote:
so what would be the best way to get rid of the points in my car. in the past i have always used DUI www.performancedistributors.com and they are awesome. they have the coil built into the cap, and they only require a single 12v wire running to them. anything like this available for the SL6?
I'm not aware of any coil-in-the-cap distributors for the slant six. However, you can combine one of their HEI modules and external coils with a factory electronic distributors.

However, you might want to define "best." Cheapest, easiest to install, best performance at any price, or some compromise between there? I've found that the Pertronix Ignitor is both fairly cheap and the easiest to install. Just replaces the points. That's what I have now.

However, I plan to change that to a weird hybrid involving a Lean Burn distributor, a four-pin GM HEI module, computerized timng control, and I'm not sure what will control the output - probably a Bosch module or an aftermarket CDI box. I'm going with a turbo / EFI buildup and I want good spark control under boost.

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'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
so what would be the best way to get rid of the points in my car. in the past i have always used DUI www.performancedistributors.com and they are awesome. they have the coil built into the cap, and they only require a single 12v wire running to them. anything like this available for the SL6?
No, there isn't—take a look at the cramped space on the underside of the "slant" where the distributor lives. There's no space for that giant GM HEI distributor cap and coil housing assembly; it'd hit the side of the block. That's all the "DUI" is, is just a GM HEI top-of-the-distributor grafted onto lower distributors for various non-GM engines. (not "grafted" so much as custom distributor housings).

There's no reason to use anything other than a Chrysler distributor. They're well-designed and well-built. Again, the only difference between a distributor pulled out of a '73-up slant with single pickup coil and vacuum advance, and the distributor in Mopar Performance P3690789 kit, is the advance curve. Neither is optimal as received, both require optimization. As with carburetors, starters, alternators, engines and brake cylinders, I do not recommend wasting money on the "remanufactured" junk you get at the parts stores. Better options: Buy a new street-type distributor off eBay (they are almost always available), buy a new MP distributor from MP, or buy an almost-new MP distributor from me! ;-) (Seriously, I have one I'm not using, send me a PM if interested).

Modules: Nothing really wrong with the design of the Mopar module. No difference between the one that ships with P3690789 and the regular street units, except the color of paint on the modules. There've been an uncomfortable number of reports of early/frequent Mopar module failure lately; reports are that these are now "outsourced" (MBA word for "cheap and nasty from China) by Mopar. If you want to run the Mopar type module, get a NAPA Echlin or a Standard BlueStreak instead.

The GM HEI module (same one used in that "DUI" you've been using) is a better performance option for a couple of reasons: It eliminates the ballast resistor, which gets rid of a potential failure point and allows the plug gaps to be opened up by 0.010" over the stock Mopar setting (this means 0.045" plug gaps), which contributes to better running and driveability. It's also more compact than the Mopar module, making it easier to carry a spare. NAPA Echlin TP-45 will be in stock and on shelf and not expensive.

Coils: Whatever you want. I generally use an MSD Blaster, which works well with the Mopar or HEI module and fits in the stock coil bracket. If you want for some reason to get rid of the stock coil bracket, you can use an
external GM HEI coil from any 1988 or newer Chev Caprice or clone, with any engine. Coil looks like this
(Standard-Bluestreak DR37X shown) and uses a mounting bracket, which you should also get. May as well also get a few inches of wire off the plug-in.

Spark plug wires: From Magnecor.

Spark plugs: Depends which head you're running, '74-down or '75-up. For a '63-'74 head, the trick plug is NGK ZFR5N without the ring gasket. Same plug for '60-'62 heads, but with the ring gasket. Not many options for the '75-up heads.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
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Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
OK, what's the deal with the ring gasket on earlier engines? I was told to leave it off because the tubes would perform the same function and the copper rings will damage the tubes.

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'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 6:26 pm 
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Quote:
OK, what's the deal with the ring gasket on earlier engines? I was told to leave it off because the tubes would perform the same function and the copper rings will damage the tubes.
Thread

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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