Hello, Attatched are 2 Pics from the cam card That My buddy Brian Got for his car.

We wanted to centerline the cam, and I only know how to centerline when the card actually Spells it out for you and says Hey - Centerline is at 104*.(example)

This card does not do that.


Can someone look at the card, and figure the centerline out for us.

BTW, show me the math so I can figure out how to do this again.




Thanks a bunch!

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Using .050 figures

108 degrees lobe seperation
108 intake centerline
108 exhaust centerline


Plugged the numbers into desktop dyno, so it did the math for me.............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Backtracking

Intake centerline = (intake duration / 2) - IVO or (274/2) - 29 = 108
Exhaust centerline = (exhaust duration /2) - EVC or (256/2) - 20 = 108
lobe separation = (intake centerline + exhaust centerline) / 2 = 216/2= 108

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks,

That will help us out.


Now back to the degree wheel and pointer gauge...

Greg

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Greg,

I would suggest you advance that cam 2 or 4 deg from the 108 centerline. Or, you might try contacting Mark Goodman (he had the cam made) to see what he recommends.

Hope that motor is pretty built (10.5:1 bare minimum comp, big valves) to use that cam effectively.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks, lou,

Yes the cam is going into a race only motor, Big valves, with .100" off the deck and head.


Greg

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Lou, When Greg and I set up the cam degree at zero valve lash there is no clearence between the the piston and valves. Is it possible to use .030 rocker shaft shims, proper valve lash adjustment and a thick head gasket to get a minimum clearence without having the pistons notched? Or should I just put in my 460 lift cam and save the Erson cam for my next motor?? Thanks, Brian

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Are the valves hitting the piston or the block deck? Did you mill the deck or the head to raise compression?

When I milled for compression I removed the material from the block to keep the oversized valves as far as possible from the deck(the valves overlap the block deck)

I radiused the chamber around the valves but left the block unnotched.

If you milled the head instead you may need to bore notch to clear the valves with .546 lift

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Brian,

You may be able to get the clearance with 0.030" valve lash, rocker shims and thick gasket. You need at least 0.090" piston-valve clearance. You might also take a die grinder to relieve 0.020" or so from the piston tops where the valves hit, which shouldn't hurt a thing (pistons out of motor or clean up ALL debris).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988