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 Post subject: Volare 1bbl carb problem
PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:34 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:30 pm
Posts: 6
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Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the 1945 Holley 1bbl carb that goes in the 1977 Plymouth Volare? I have the Chiltons book but the pics stink and I'm left with one spring and now I'm not sure if it's going to work correctly when I attempt to fire it up (after a complete rebuild)tomorrow morning. PLEASE HELP!! Thanks!!


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 3:03 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 11:04 am
Posts: 270
Location: New York
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Quote:
Does anyone have a picture or diagram of the 1945 Holley 1bbl carb that goes in the 1977 Plymouth Volare? I have the Chiltons book but the pics stink and I'm left with one spring and now I'm not sure if it's going to work correctly when I attempt to fire it up (after a complete rebuild)tomorrow morning. PLEASE HELP!! Thanks!!
Can you show me the spring? If you still need this I'm pretty sure I would be able to send you an exploded parts diagram. Where do I send it?

Mitch


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:26 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:30 pm
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I think I have it fugured out but I would happily take the diagram just in case. (manfetti@yahoo.com) Now, I just have to figure out why it won't start... new battery and new starter and all I'm getting is the "click" when I try to start it... any thoughts?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24446
Location: North America
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Quote:
any thoughts?
Well, as a longer-term fix, read and follow the instructions in This post (except of course substitute your correct year for the FSM). You really cannot get by (as you are finding out) with the Chilton book, which provides you with a lot of incorrect information and leaves out a lot of information you need.

As a shorter-term fix, refer to the diagram that came with the carburetor rebuild kit...!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 1:37 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:30 pm
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Thanks for the manual tip!! Much appreciated!! How about some help with the starting problem... PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!! Good starter, good battery, good starter relay..... "Click"... that's it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 1:58 pm 
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Well, let's try to narrow down where the "click" is coming from. Is it coming from the starter relay? Or from the starter motor?

How have you determined that the starter relay and motor are good? If they are in fact actually both good, then your problem is most likely a faulty battery cable, cable terminal, or cable terminal connection—either positive or negative, either at the battery or engine end.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 4:20 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:47 am
Posts: 526
Location: Illinois
Car Model:
Stupid question but can you turn the motor over by hand. Most slants can be turned by grabbing the crank pulling and giving it a tug. If the fan belt is tight enough you usually can spin the motor backwards with the fan.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2005 4:21 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13056
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I second the battery cable.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2006 12:58 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:30 pm
Posts: 6
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Yes, the engine can be turned by hand. I took the starter up to Auto Zone and they tested it... it works too. I also cleaned and grinded every electrical connection and still just the "click" from the starter relay (brand new). The starter isn't making any noise. I've tried starting it Park and in Neutral just in case the neutral safety switch was bad. When I took everything out, I forgot to mark one thing and I can't seem to figure out where it was... it's a flat metal braided grounding wire. About 15-18 inches in length with eyelets on each end. Could this be the culprit??


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 Post subject: Test this
PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2006 1:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2004 9:27 am
Posts: 824
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
it's a flat metal braided grounding wire. About 15-18 inches in length with eyelets on each end. Could this be the culprit??
Yes, that's a ground wire, but Nope, let's stay on track.

It sounds like the relay is clicking but the starter is not getting the signal. This could be caused by a broken wire or a missing connector.

There should be 2 wires connecting to your starter. There is a big one and a little one.

Test procedure:
Step 1, Turn the key on
Step 2, Use a screwdriver to bridge the gap between the big wire terminal and the little wire terminal.

If the starter cranks, then the little wire was bad or not connected at one end. The little wire goes back to the starter relay and is usually brown in color.

If the starter does not crank, then the big cable/connection/?inline fuse or the battery is bad (or the starter, but that's already been tested in your case) Start by taking the battery in to get 'load tested'.

Good luck

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 2:07 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:30 pm
Posts: 6
Car Model:
The screwdriver tricked worked!! It turned over but unfortunately, no start. I think my problem may lie in the ignition coil wiring. I have 3 wires; a brown, black/yellow, and a solid yellow with a resistor on it. I think I just tagged everything wrong but again, the Chiltons book does not help. I don't want to cross anything so I'm again asking for your help. Also, the voltage regulator has a short wire with a resistor on it and I'm just grounding it... is that right?


Last edited by manfetti on Mon Jan 02, 2006 2:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 2:25 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2005 2:29 pm
Posts: 257
Car Model:
Check the wire connections to your alternator. Have you removed it or disconnected anything since the last time it ran, or reversed the wire connections on it by accident? The car won't start if the have been crossed or not connected. It could also be that you burned a fusible link. Check around the wires by the master cylinder to be sure.
I rebuilt the Holley 1945 in my Valiant about 7k miles ago, hasn't given me a problem since. I really don't know why these carbs. are given a bad reputation. When I opened mine up I was amazed by the simplicity of it. I probably could've gotten away with just changing the skirt on the accelerator pump. Either way, to hell with the 1920 and Carter BBS. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 2:51 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:30 pm
Posts: 6
Car Model:
The wiring has to be the issue... the only problem is getting the answer. Just short of rewiring the entire car, I don't know what else to do. I can't seem to find a +/- wiring diagram and I'm getting frustrated. I have now spent 5 days just trying to start my car and if I had some dynamite... well, maybe I'm not ready for that. I appreciate ALL the help from everybody so far but I still need more!!!!! Does anybody have the correct wiring for a 77 Volare? Does anybody have a 77 Volare and a camera?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 5:42 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 9496
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
I Had a similar problem with my 79 Volare, I had a good batt, And I repalced the starter Starter relay, cleaned the batt. terminals, etc.


I could start the car with a screwdriver @ the starter by jumpering the Large Connection to the small connection at the starter with the screw driver (btw) ignition was ON.


Anyway, I found out that it was The Wire that goes from the starter relay on the firewall to the small connection on the starter. I cant remember if I replaced it or Just got it to work, But That was the problem.. Try a different length of wire from the spade connection down to the small connection on the starter. (If you havent done so already) That might be a common problem on the 25+ Yr. old F Bodies..

I too Thought of that fusible link, But that was not the problem in my case.

Greg

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