ok so, my 71 dart i know for sure needs a new carb gasket...we found a nice leak at the manifold one night...

besides that, i think i have an oil leak:
where are common areas for the leak, i'm noticing the oil pump side of the block is kind of nasty, thinking it might be on that side.

also. my distributor cap doesn't like to stay in place. it clips down, but give it a little knock on the head and the rear clip pops off.
haven't checked timing or anything. upcoming project tho.

my dad is convinced i should do something about the distributor
i want electronic ignition,
can someone give me a link to the post a while back when someone explicitly explained installing HEI?
that's what i want (my paycheck can't handle MSD)
thanks for the help

_________________
My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.

For the oil leak I suggest clean engine thoroughly.Then run it and recheck, should then be easy to pin point the leak if everything is clean.(make sure valve cover is tight but not over tight)etc.etc...As for electronic ignition why use HEI when all you need is a reman distrbutor from any 74-up slant(except for lean burn,stay away from that)then get same year ignition module(4-pin would be best) harness can be had from dealer for fairly cheap.Also you should change the coil for same year electronic.Then when you can afford it buy the MSD box of your choice.I run stock 75-slant electronic ignition distributor with MSD 6-BTM and blaster 2 coil.What a difference it made.You could also get dist,coil,module & harness off a car or truck at the wreckers for probably less than a $100.00.Again HEI is GM why put GM parts on mopar?
Ted

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mopar or no car
68 Valiant 100 2dr post /6 a-904 susp mods
78 Ramcharger 4x4 360 727 3/4t 33"
67 Charger 383 4bbl 727 trick suspension

Good advice. There are a lot of potential leak points over on the oil pump side of the engine. They include:

-Valve cover (bent) and/or gasket (cooked/broken/missing)

-Oil cap, breather cap and/or PCV valve (grommets and seals and/or hoses cooked or broken or missing)

-Spark plug tube seals (cooked/broken)

-Fuel pump to block gasket

-Distributor O-rings, upper and lower

-Oil pressure sender switch (blown)

-Oil pump gaskets (pump cover O-ring, pump-to-block gasket, pressure relief valve cover gasket)
Because it eliminates the most common failure point (ballast resistor) and gives hotter spark allowing wider plug gaps for better driveability.
You need a replacement (electronic) distributor whether you use Mopar or HEI module. Remans are never first choice. First choice is brand new (still widely available), second choice is good used (still widely available), last choice is "remanufactured".
'cause HEI is better than Mopar EIS. MSD isn't Mopar either; by your logic, why put MSD parts on a Mopar?

Carrigan: The HEI swap is easy.

The way I do it:

1) Fetch a piece of aluminum 1/4" thick by about 2" by about 3-1/2"

2) Drill two holes in it to match the HEI module's mounting holes

3) Squirt heat sink compound on plate, put HEI module on plate, secure
plate and module to inner fender.

4) Remove ballast resistor. Discard.

5) Wire module like this. Holding the HEI module with convex side down or toward you, upper left is terminal
"B," battery; lower left is "C," trigger; two on right are for pickup coil. "Which pickup coil wire goes to which module terminal?" is determined by trial and error. If engine is difficult to start or runs poorly after installation, swap these two wires.

So, the two wires from an ordinary Mopar electronic distributor go to the module's two RH terminals, the module's upper left "B" terminal gets connected to coil (+) primary so that it gets +12V from ignition switch (no ballast resistor in between!), and the module's terminal "C" goes to coil (-) primary. The only other thing that needs to be assured is a proper module ground, but it's very difficult not to have this just by installing the module. I like to run a ground wire to one of the mounting bolts, but most of the time you can get away without it.

The author of the linked page says you have to have the GM module connector, but that's not true. All you have to do is make sure you use the correct-size female spade terminals (three of the four terminals on the module are ¼", the fourth is 3/16".)

6) As far as coils go, I tend to put in an MSD Blaster, which fits the stock can-type coil bracket and will live a long, happy, sparky life with the electronic ignition.

7) Open your plug gaps from 0.035" to 0.045" (improved starting, idling,
driveability, mileage). Now's a good time to put in a set of the extended-nose spark plugs (NGK ZFR5N or Autolite 985). Remember, remove the spark plug gaskets; they're not used on your '71.

Drive and enjoy.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

these are the times when i like you a lot Dan, you are indeed wise...
as for the leak...we're working on it...my brother is going to auto mech school...
i'll be replacing the carb gasket soon, so i'm gonna go ahead and do the valve cover gasket while i'm at it, along with changing the plugs, checking timing and compression.
i've already replaced the oil sending unit, so if that's the culpret, i must have installed it wrong, in which case i will allow myself to be runover by my own car.
i agree on the HEI dan, cheaper than MSD (i don't need that yet)
do you have an estimate cost (assuming new parts), and where to order/find them?

i'm recovering from surgery so my poor baby has been sitting in the driveway all on its lonesome

as soon as i get my finances in order, i'm getting down to business
i have to get this beast ready for a few ten hour trips to knoxville before i start school there

GO VOLS!!

thanks again[/quote]

_________________
My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.

Glad to help out. If you want a new HEI module, a NAPA Echlin TP-45's a good premium-quality one. Shouldn't cost more than about $40 tops. I see new (not reman) slant-6 distributors go by on eBay on a fairly regular basis; they seem to sell for about $40 to $60. Wiring? Depends on how good you are at cobbling-up your own. Coil, maybe another $40. So, for all new/premium parts, you're probably looking at around $120ish.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

well that's cheaper than the MSD box alone so...i'm happy
thanks again...i'll let you know how it goes, i've a got a nearby contact who is a wiring master (does all of Tidewater Mopar Club's eletronics for their charity cars).
if you see a nice new distributor around, anywhere, give me a holler
thanks

_________________
My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.

New distributor listed Here. Seller is well established.

In all fairness, I must point out this option (this seller is well established, too, and he's only recently switched from selling the distributors alone to selling these parts kits of his. He probably still has a large stock of just the distributors.) But, with the latter option you still should buy a new coil, and you don't get the HEI benefits.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

As far as the wiring harness, if you want to stay stock, PAW keeps the mopar wiring harness in stock for ~ $20. I can look a up part # if needed.

If you don't mind the foot work...

The harness is $21 from you local mopar dealer (I just ordered two for other people), the distributor is whatever you pay for it(ebay, junkyard, etc...), the Ballast resistor (well you'll pitch yours), EI unit (junkyard $5...new was $25+ depending on who you buy it from), ask for a coil from a '1974' car then another $27... HEI module...$20+ new...

Saves you bout $20( or more),

-D.idiot

One thing to note about buying OEM distributors is getting the information about what it was originally intended for so it can be installed close to the correct 'specs'.

In this case the ebay auction is for a 1976 distributor intended for use in all 225 equipped vehicles with a standard transmission (not Feather Duster/Dart lite)...it has a very short mechanical throw and would prove excellent if installed @10-12BTDC initial (but may ping due to the vacc. advance being a bit long in the tooth...this is very similar to the current Cardone Remanufactured Distributor,FYI). The '598' distributor intended for the automatic equipped 225 of the same year, has the same vacc. adv., but it has a really long in the tooth mech advance only good for about 6-8 degrees initial advance. If you were to get a 1974 manual tranny distributor they are pretty much stuck for TDC install for emissions and a full 30 degrees advance mechanically (not the most friendly distributor).


Make sure you write down what part number you get, some here will have the specs so you can get the most out of your timing in the way of power and/or mileage...

-D.Idiot

well whenever i get off my butt from this surgery and get some money i'll be in business. can i get a part number for both the mopar and PAW wiring harnesses?
thanks for the help...
keep me posted on those distributors...it may be about two weeks before i have the money...
but oh well
thanks guys

_________________
My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.