Hi,

What sort of special parts and or special problems are related to the Slant Six Au block?

I've got a Front Engine Dragster that has a cast iron slant six in now, and I've got a spare short block, and access to heads etc. The Ebay Alum slant is pretty cheap and might be worth buying as a core motor.

I know these motors were 'corrosion prone', I guess I can take my chances if the price is cheap enough. How much lighter is the Au block? Any advantages other than weight? Any disadvantages? This would be built up into a full-on race motor.

thanks
mark

mldingba@collins.rockwell.com

The Alm. SL6 block is 76 lbs lighter, that's a lot of weight reduction and the over-all regidity of the Alm. engine is less as a result.

The main problem is related to the corrosion issue you noted, that is, the head gasket sealing on this engine has always been marginal at best. If you get to much corrosion pitting around the cylinder barrels, it becomes nearly impossible to keep a head gasket sealed. A related issue is the special Alm. Block head gasket itself, which has been out of production for over 10 years now. Yup, you can still find them around but they are a bit pricy and this quickly becomes a "pain" if you are blowing lots of head gaskets.

Can these engines be built to perform,...you bet! Remember Wilford Day who set and held F & G Production land speed records with an ALM. BLOCK SL6 (145 MPH) and how about the Drag Master, Dodd & Martin team, they set a bunch of dragstrip records with an Alm SL6. I think both these "teams" had engine output well over the 300 H.P. level using this "weak" engine block!
DD

Thanks for the info doc.

If one were to Oring and/or make up a copper gasket, I think the head gasket problem can be dealt with...

Are these 'wet' sleeves? I seem to remember that the cylinder sleeve was free-standing and the engine does not have much of a top-deck. Is this correct?

Any crank differences between the Au and CI motors?

I'm still thinking about it, price is right but the car is 650 miles away and the corrosion problems have me a bit worried.

What is a decent price for a rebuildable Au motor if I don't want to use it?

thanks
mark

mldingba@collins.rockwell.com

I need to do a "quickee" on this so see the "embedded" answers below:
DD

You would have to install a top deck "plate" if you go the 0-ring route, the free-standing barrels only have a .250 "rim" that the gasket up to.
:
: Are these 'wet' sleeves? I seem to remember
: that the cylinder sleeve was free-standing
: and the engine does not have much of a
: top-deck. Is this correct?

Yes, there is NO top deck, the die cast tool "pull-out" a large "slide" to create the water jacket area.
:
: Any crank differences between the Au and CI
: motors?

No, all forged steel 198 & 225 cranks will swap right in. Cast cranks will not.
:
: I'm still thinking about it, price is right but
: the car is 650 miles away and the corrosion
: problems have me a bit worried.

Yup, this is a "crap shoot", most can be repaired with welding work.
:
: What is a decent price for a rebuildable Au
: motor if I don't want to use it?

$300-500.00 range is the "going rate"
Here are some pics, I need to scan one showing the top deck, pretty looking piece of die-cast.
DD



Alm. Block, the other side