This thread is for talking and asking about HEI. Looking for the HEI ignition how-to-retrofit instructions?
They're here.

Looking for the technical performance and operation comparison between Mopar electronic ignition and HEI?
It's here.

Looking for the explanation of why HEI is well-engineered?
It's here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

question
does this eliminate the ecu (orange box) all together or does it stay?

may be a dumb question or maybe not

thanks guys

dustin

Yes, the HEI module does a better job of the same function as, and takes the place of, the Mopar ECU.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I did this exact conversion a few months ago. Here is a picture of it mounted to supplement Dan's writeup. There's really nothing to it, quite simple to do.


HEI Installed Pic

I didn't take any pictures mounting it up, but it was simple. I just used a radio shack plug that mated up perfectly with the distributor and crimped ends on the rest of it. I can't find the pics of the fittings, but can easily take some if there is a need.

MJ

gotta hand it to you dan, good swap! i must admit, when i saw the title i thought "who would want that crap on their slant?" and pictured some sort of retrofit of a GM (the mark of excrement) self cooking distributor. i'm glad i went ahead and read it. it seems you've forgone the 10 lbs of crap in a 5 pound bag approach of the general and came up with a simple, effective and affordable alternative to other ignition choices for our cars. nice work.

-james

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I always thought that too..... why would you want a GM distributor on a slant.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

it isnt a GM distributer just the ECU.
I have been running mine like this for over two years.

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Yes it was a very simple and easy fix...and as you can see by the picture, you just mount the ECU.




I think the total cost was like $80 for me. $30 for the coil, $12 for the ECU, and $38 for the slant six electronic distributor new on ebay. My only problem was the distributor was frozen up from non-use, but some kroil solved that.

Works great!

MJ

I've just purchased an electronic distributor for my AP6 (1965 Australian Val.)
This method to connect appears to be simple and painless, but I have a few questions;

1. Is an electronic voltage regulator required (as some sites claim)?

2. Why is the ballast resistor not required anymore when still using the standard coil? As I understand it normally 12 V to the coil for normal running will 'cook' it, what's changed?

3. Is the bosch BIM024 module equivalent to those listed and what do the terminal numbers 3, 7, 15 & 16 mean?

Thanks

This post explains why a ballast is not needed. Using a plain ordinary coil is OK, but not optimal. An electronic voltage regulator isn't needed, but a good-working one is. If your line voltage is jumpy or spiky, you run the risk of cooking the ignition module. Bosch Australia have their own aftermarket numbering scheme. BIM024 was used on a fair number of Australian Fords and Holdens, but is not the same as a GM HEI module. Is it as good? Will it work without a ballast resistor? Good questions, I have no answers.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have converted my van to HEI and I have a problem with it intermittently stalling out. It only seems to happen when the engine has run for awhile and is good and warm. I will be driving along and the engine will start to sputter and miss. If I back off the throttlethe engine sometimes will catch again, but once it starts doing this I can't go over 2000 RPM. Eentually the motor will just die. I have to sit there for a bit, crank the motor a bunch, but eventually it will start back up. I then have to take it easy, never going above 2000 PM and baby the van to a spot where I can park it for a bit and let it cool off. Once it has cooled off the van runs fine.

Are these symptoms of a dying HEI unit or is it just evidence that I don't have my HEI unit mounted in a place which lets it cool off enough?

Could be related, could be separate. Borrow a hairdryer and see if you can duplicate the stall-out condition by heating up the HEI module with the hairdryer as the engine idles. (If no hairdryer, you can use a bulb-type droplight, but it'll take longer). If you're able to cause the stallout this way, swap the module. The fender (or whatever other sheetmetal) should provide more than plenty of heatsink for the module. Did you use heat-conductive grease when mounting the module? Did you check to make sure the module body has a good, clean ground connection?

This could be other problems, too. Could be a bum coil (what kind did you use?), could be a failing pickup coil in the distributor, could be a fuel problem...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am using the stock lean-burn coil, a junkyard distributor, and I didn't use and kind of grease when I mounted the HEI unit. As far as where the unit is mounted, well, its too hard to describe, I will have to post a picture.

I will soon be swapping over to an Offy intake and at that time I am going to swap to an old Mallory Mag-Spark coil and remount the HEI unit on a piece of aluminium using heat-sink compound and bolt it to the firewall of the van. I also plan on replacing the fuel filter. Hopefully this will help the problem.

Thanks Dan

I found some more info here; http://www.valiantpacers.com/archive/WH ... ition.html

As you state the bosch gear was fairly common here and is therefore probably the cheaper option, I guess I'll go with it.

VR is new, Apico (?) brand

Hey Dan, by removing the spark plug gaskets are you referring to the rings that come on the plugs, or the rubber seals on the spark plug tubes? I assume you mean the rings on the plugs, but I just wanted to clarify.

Good writeup too. Short, sweet and to the point. I can't wait to do this on the fiance's Dart and see how much of a difference it makes.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me