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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:21 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Hey all,

After putting my engine together about 6 months ago, I've driven it a small amount, but not put many extended trips on it. Yesterday I drove it about 30 mins on the freeway, and when I arrived the radiator boiled over a small amount a few minutes after I stopped. It didn't come out the overflow tube, but popped a small amount from under the cap, so I assume the tube is plugged.

The water that came out was pretty much rust colored, so I'm guessing that drive has flushed whatever residual rust was left in the radiator and block after I rebuilt them. While I did my best to flush the radiator and block before the engine went in, the block had been sitting for a long time when I got it.

I've never done this on a very old iron engine, so I wanted to be sure I didn't make any mistakes. Here's what I was going to do:

1--run it hot, drain it.
2--put hose in and fill with water, run the motor a while and open the radiator drain while running the hose.
3--wait until it looks clean coming out
4--put new fluid in

while buying fluid I saw prestone makes 2 products that may be useful to me. One was a flush agent that you run in the motor for 3-6 hours and its a calcium-based chemical. Then drain and do the usual. The other is an anti-rust additive (which I thought all coolant has anyway) that I would guess is something akin to Redline's water-wetter product.

Any thoughts on using either one of these or my flushing procedure? I just want to get it cleaned out well and try to prevent this from happening more. I know I could get the radiator flushed at a shop, but then what about the block?

Thanks!

MJ


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:42 pm 
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Location: Central GA
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Most of the stuff you can buy anymore specifically calling itself radiator flush is basically colored water.

Go down to the farm store and get some delimer/descaler (used in dairy and food industry) which is a phosphoric acid solution. I run it in the cooling system at idle for about 25 minutes, flush thoroughly, add about a half a cup of baking soda, run it a while, flush again and again. If you have some ph test strips that will help you know when you've flushed enough.

D/W

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:48 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Do a web search on something like

DIY radiator flush


Don't remember the search terms exactly, but there's formulas out there that use common household products that actually work better than anything you can buy

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 2:49 pm 
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Location: North America
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Quote:
1--run it hot, drain it.
That's for oil. This is the cooling system. NEVER drain a hot block! Always only ever cold.
Quote:
2--put hose in and fill with water, run the motor a while and open the radiator drain while running the hose.
3--wait until it looks clean coming out
4--put new fluid in
Won't do you much good. It'll get rid of the bigger chips and chunks, but if you're trying to clean the system, go ahead and clean it. Prestone "Super Radiator Cleaner" is one product that'll do so. So is Solder Seal/Gunk "Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner". The "fast flush" types of products are not what you need.

Once you've cleaned out the system, rinse it twice as thoroughly as called for (make sure the heater valve is fully open while you do the cleanout job), drain thoroughly and fill with 50/50 coolant and distilled water. Pick your coolant carefully; don't use anything that mentions being Dex-Cool compatible. The newest G-05 formulations are a good choice, but if you can find conventional green silicate-based coolant (getting scarce!), that's fine, too. There is no need or advantage to adding anything to the coolant in the way of other chemicals or additives.

Make sure you've got a good cap of the proper type on the system, too: A 13- to 14-pound, partial-pressure item.

What kind of block cleaning procedure did you use when swapping?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 3:52 pm 
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Quote:
...Solder Seal/Gunk "Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner".
That's the oxalic acid granular stuff, right? Can you get that in Canaduh? No longer sold here in US due to Al Gore types, if it's the stuff I'm thinking about. It works good if it is, and you can find it.

D/W

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:16 pm 
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...Solder Seal/Gunk "Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner".
That's the oxalic acid granular stuff, right?
MSDS lists organic acids and potash, amongst other stuff.
Quote:
Can you get that in Canaduh?
Not sure, haven't looked, but you can get it in the US.
Quote:
No longer sold here in US due to Al Gore types
Betchyer wrong! :-)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:19 pm 
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Location: Central GA
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
...Solder Seal/Gunk "Heavy Duty Radiator Cleaner".
That's the oxalic acid granular stuff, right?
MSDS lists organic acids and potash, amongst other stuff.
Quote:
Can you get that in Canaduh?
Not sure, haven't looked, but you can get it in the US.
Quote:
No longer sold here in US due to Al Gore types
Betchyer wrong! :-)
Well then, I don't think it's the stuff I'm talking about, anyway. I seem to remember that the Heavy-duty Radiator Cleaner I'm thinking about was sold under the DuPont label. It was a two part deal, the acid and the neutralizer. We on the same page?

D/W

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 4:51 pm 
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I remember those two-part cleaners (I used to buy Mac's brand from NAPA) but I haven't looked for it in many years, for I haven't had need of it. The present formulations I listed above seem to be single-component compounds.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:49 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
I bought prestone coolant and the prestone super radiator cleaner, so I'll just got ahead and use those and see what happens. I also bought the prestone anti-rust stuff, but I can always not use it.

As for the block, since it was never "running" before I got it, it was disassembled, power-washed and then I tried to flush the cooling passages with air and water combos. No chemicals, nothing serious. Obviously not quite enough ;)

So I'll try the prestone super clean stuff and report back. Otherwise I'll be cooking up some home radiator cleaner!

MJ


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 6:16 pm 
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I bought prestone coolant
Which kind? They make several. It's really critical not to put the wrong stuff in, which was basically impossible 15 years ago (all coolant at the parts store was more or less the same) but is very easy now.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 6:24 pm 
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Location: Central GA
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Quote:
I bought ...prestone super radiator cleaner, so I'll just got ahead and use those and see what happens.
I'll go ahead and tell you: Nothing will happen (other than your flushing will serve to remove much of the larger particles that are already loose - the "super radiator cleaner" will have no effect. It's a crime they can even market it as such (a "cleaner" of any description). :roll:

Good luck, and happy flushing!

D/W

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 6:27 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Can't seem to find the DIY formula anywhere on the internet.......


I think it was something like lime-away.............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject: found something.....
PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:08 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
CLR
Lime Away
Vinegar
Unsweetened lime-flavored Kool-Aid

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=334471

http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi ... &th=516901

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 11:33 am
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Location: Central GA
Car Model: Many & varied, including stock & hopped up /6's
Quote:
Can't seem to find the DIY formula anywhere on the internet.......


I think it was something like lime-away.............
uh... my post above? :lol:
Quote:
...get some delimer/descaler (used in dairy and food industry) which is a phosphoric acid solution.
D/W

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2006 12:32 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2004 7:20 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: Redwood City, CA
Car Model: 1962 Lancer 770
Quote:
[
Which kind? They make several.
The one I got is the "new formula" for all kinds, all makes/models.

ingredients listed: (di)ethylene glycol, sodium-2 ethyl hexanoate, and sodium neodecanoate. God now I remember why I hated college chem!

MJ

Also--my old heater hose had one of those prestone T-flush adapters. I'm not sure I kept the hose (pretty sure I didn't) but would it be worthwhile to put one in a hose to run water through while the engine is running to completely flush it out? Should I try to remove the freeze plugs to do this or is that getting carried away?


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