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 Post subject: Carb Spacer - Yes or No?
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:07 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 20, 2005 5:22 am
Posts: 491
Location: Missouri City, Texas (Houston Area)
Car Model:
I have a mildly modified SL6 with a Offenhauser manifold and Holley 4160 (390 cfm) it currently has a 1" thick 4 hole carb spacer. I want as much low end grunt as it can deliver. Do I need to leave the spacer in or loose it? See below for more engine info if necessary.

bwhitejr

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'72 Duster (Performance 360)
'83 Ramcharger (Performance 318)
'80 TrailDuster (360)
'80 D-150 Truck (See Below)
CompCams 252S, Holley 390cfm, Offy manifold
Ported, Polished and Gasket Matched
P4286813 Springs,0.040 Overbore,
0.090 Shaved Head


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:12 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Don't think it matters much with a 4-hole spacer.

Is it aluminum or plastic (or wood)?

Aluminum will conduct heat to the carb, which you don't want............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:16 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13278
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
My research indicates that a four holes will give better low RPM grunt. If you are worried about heat grab a heat shield off of a four barrel mid 80s Ford truck or van.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:46 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:50 am
Posts: 154
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
You could always make one out of Delrin.

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The Old Goat '83 D150 225-2

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 4:12 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2005 11:34 pm
Posts: 332
Location: Wilkesboro,NC
Car Model:
I got one of those carb spacers by motorvation that you can purchase
from summit racing equipment. I noticed an improvement in my low end
power and just a tiny bit more gas mileage. But as mentioned if you think
heat will be an issue get a heat shield :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 8:48 pm
Posts: 366
Location: Southeastern PA
Car Model:
Back when I had a Weber DGEV mounted to a cast iron 2bbl. manifold (super six), I had to use an adaptor for a Datsun intake that I modified as an adaptor. This acted like a 1.5" spacer, and the car made good low end torque at the time (by seat-of-the-pants feel). When I switched to a Clifford manifold with proper adaptor, I think the car lost low end torque. It could've just been that the runners and plenum in the cast iron 2bbl. were better for low RPMs. Because it's so easy to try, I think a spacer is definitely worth exploring on any carburated vehicle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
Car Model:
Do you have to readjust the kickdown linkage when you install a carb spacer?

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2006 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 8:48 pm
Posts: 366
Location: Southeastern PA
Car Model:
Yes, with a rod-type kickdown linkage you will have to figure something out so that it still works properly/won't bind.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 2:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 7:39 pm
Posts: 904
Car Model:
most carb spacers I have seen are actually phenolic, which often gets confused with wood (in most any PAW catalog).

I will probably make my own spacer at work out of phenolic once I get a chance.

I have seen many claims to the gains, but no hard numbers from anyone yet. I am guessing its a mild tunnel ram type effect.


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