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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 2:44 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
Hello folks,

have long had a beautiful nearly new condition exhaust manifold with the round weight and extra ribs...that I have never used. I never used it because despite my best efforts with a year's worth of weekly application of Mopar heat valve lube to the valve shaft, applications of heat from my acetylene torch, moving the shaft back and forth with a 3 pound hammer tap, the %*!! valve is too tight to turn except with a lot of hand force on the weight. The bushings have been dinged in with a punch to hold them. I got a notion to obsess over tthis manifold again and thought this time I would remove the flap from the shaft and knock out the shaft and either use 600 grit paper on the shaft or drill a few thousandths out of the bushings, then put the thing back together.

An old (2004) slantsix forum thread got me going on the parts numbers so I ran a DealerConnect parts search on those parts. Course, no complete kit anywhere any more but I did get several spring sets. SO, seems it is back to shaft work if I want to do this task since the rest of the valve mechanism is in beautiful shape and can be reused.

It looks like someone brazed the flap on...is this how these flaps are attached to the shaft? I can reheat the flap and remove it after melting the brazing. After reading the forum thread see how to get the flap located right afterward I can do that. But is removing, bushing drilling, shaft reinsertion and valve rebrazing what I need to do to get the valve to flap loosely (especially since a year of Mother Mopar lube has failed)?

If after this round of valve obsesssion the valve is not usable I guess I will just cut it out and stash the manifold for another project, cause it sure is a pretty manifold. Does my failure to find a kit indicate that we are down to buying old cracked manifolds to get heat riser valves to use for replacement if we want to replace, since kits are no longer around? (I know we can likely run fine with no valve, I just like to fix things!)

Thanks guys,
rock
'64d100


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 Post subject: keep us posted
PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 3:05 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 7:48 am
Posts: 30
Location: Davenport, FL
Car Model:
I'm in a similare situation as yours. Mine is free and turns easily as intended, but the spring that returns it is broken. How I missed that before sandblasting and heat coating I'll never know. In any case, the only fix is to remove the flap, drive the shaft out, install a new spring and reassemble. I'm curious to hear how you make out with yours. And if the springs you found are the large one that fits beside the round weight, I'd like to get the part number off you as I will need one. Thanks, Charlie.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 5:05 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24514
Location: North America
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Rock, sounds like yours might have a bent shaft. Yes, the flapper is brazed or welded on. P/N 4186175 valve package complete can be had from Arizona Parts, 602-966-6683 — at the moment, they show 9 in stock. Seems to me someone ought to be able to figure out where those aftermarket new manifolds are coming from and get the producer to supply just the valve kits...

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 Post subject: Sometimes...
PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2006 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Quote:
Yes, the flapper is brazed or welded on

I have a couple of 'late' manifolds where the flapper isn't welded but is 'staked' into place, you can't get in there to grind the bumps out for good removal. The last one I did for my rear dutra dual with Hyperpak heater box, I pulled the spring off the stake, quickly made a couple of cuts with a plasma cutter to remove the flapper, shaft came out fine...replaced what needed to be replaced and put it back together with 4 good tacks on the shaft and plate.

Would be really nice to get a kit to replace these on stock manifolds too with winters in the PacNW. Thanks for the info, Dan!


-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 7:08 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 8:29 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Raleigh, NC
Car Model:
Thanks fellows!

One thing for sure, at any one time some of us will have the same problem and some of us will have it solved! Charrlie, I will be glad to send along a spring if when it gets here it is what you need. I got them from several sources and think they are correct, but will have to hold them up against the unit to be sure. I will get back. It is nice to have a suggestion re. plasma cutter...I hadn't thought of that, either. I'm like y'all..I can run without it, but "things go better with flap" in the winter here too. (Even though this is the first winter since 1948 with no temps below 20 degrees F).

Happy sixing!
rock
'64D100


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