On the way home from camping in the desert last weekend, I threw a rod and cracked the block in my Cortez's /6. The engine was burning oil and needed a rebuild anyway, I just didn't need it to happen this way.

From what Dan has told me before, this was the 225-2 model. I haven't been able to find any remanufactured engines with the -2 or -3 designation. A friend who is a mechanic will help me rebuild one, but he doesn't know much about slants. What suggestions do you all have? Can I buy a standard junkyard 225 block and build it to the industrial durability of the 225-2 or 225-3? This is in a Cortez motorhome, so I don't need it to go fast; but more power than original would be nice.

Also Dan, you mentioned a while back that Doc might be able to make an MP244 cam, did you ever get yours copied?

Thanks for any help

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

Yeah, those were factory designations. The "remanufacturing" industry doesn't know or care the difference. It's just as well you couldn't find one; "remanufactured" engines are cruddy.
Build for durability and low-end torque.
Surely! How extra-tough an engine you wind up with depends on what parts and techniques you put into the build. How much time do you have to cast around for an optimal block? Do you have to use the first one you find, or is there maybe some leeway to dig up one of the more desireable, earlier-production blocks?
Yep! His cam grinder, Elgin Cams, can now make an MP244 cam for whoever wants one. When I called last Autumn to check lagtime, they hadn't yet got the message that anyone could order them. "That's Doug's cam, I don't think he wants us to sell it to anyone but him", etc. Doc's been busy, so I don't know if he has had time to call Elgin and tell 'em it's OK for anyone to buy that cam, but in any event it should be easy to sort that one out.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, I hate to take too much of your time, but would you give me recommendations for the important components (type, maker, necessary specifications etc.)?

I have plenty of time to look for a block and piece things together, and am planning to spend $1500-2000 (hopefully including Dutra Duals).

Lastly, is there a good book you would recommend on the slant 6 rebuild process with torque specs etc?

Thanks again, Dan and all,

Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

I'd be happy to, but it's been a long enough while since I had to go shopping for rebuild parts that I'm probably not the best man for the job, beyond recommending that quality name-brand parts be used and gimmicky stuff ("Total Seal" rings, etc.) be stayed away from.

Seems to me you could re-use the truck-spec crank, your rods, etc. from your cracked engine, as long as you find a pre-1976 forged-crank block to work with.
A factory service manual for the year of engine you're building!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.