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1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36132		 Page 70 of 85
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Nov 22, 2017 8:12 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
Quote:
I thought that Pittsburgh track racers had to sign a form that they were required to oil down a track at least once each year? :P You are way behind, Greg.

Lou
Oops. What was I thinking.. i guess I did the opt out form on that one :-)
Greg
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Wed Nov 22, 2017 10:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
When I spoke to Mike Jeffrey he mentioned that he would use full groove bearing on #2 & #3 mains since they each feed 2 rod bearings. I decided to just run a standard setup instead of buying 2 full sets of bearings. Hope I don't live to regret it?
Rick
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:25 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
I'm not making near the power you guys are. But I've been running full groove mains ever since I started hurting rod bearings, after I started hopping up the slant, after I couldn't run stock eliminator any longer. I originally used two sets of uppers, but hated throwing away 1 set of bearings. Since I have been running in the slant six series, I have been running standard main sets, and hand grooving the the lower shell. I have had zero issues with bearings. They always, look like new on a teardown.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed Nov 22, 2017 2:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
I did run full groove bearings but i now run standard shells in the mains with a .050 ×.050 full groove crank.

Mains all looked good. Plenty of pressure but with 1gallon of water added to oil i was surprised i was still in hi 11's :shock:


Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Fri Mar 23, 2018 3:03 pm ]
Post subject:  3/23/18 - Beginning the 3rd Engine Build
I have my block back from the machine shop.

It still needs acid Etched (Double Bubble, toil and trouble) is going on as of this post.
Then Hopefully in a day or 2 it will be Filled with hardblok.

after that it's back to the machine shop for Boring, Honing, align Honing and installing stand offs.
I sent another crank to them and they found it to be good - it's now a 0.010" / 0.010" Crank.


Until I have more interesting stuff to post ....here are some building block pics :ö
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Author:  Dart270 [ Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
Nice progress, Greg. Hope Ava is having fun too!

Lou
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Mar 24, 2018 6:49 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
2 months to Mason Dixon!
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
Quote:
2 months to Mason Dixon!
Yes, not a timeframe that i appericate... but when you have to rely on others to do work for you this sometimes happens :| :| :|


Greg
Author:  Badvert65 [ Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:43 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
Quote:
Quote:
2 months to Mason Dixon!
Yes, not a timeframe that i appericate... but when you have to rely on others to do work for you this sometimes happens :| :| :|


Greg
Yeah, two months is more like 'down to the wire'.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:55 pm ]
Post subject:  4-23-18 Ruster Update
I am getting things done slowly.

First, Here are some pictures of Block #2 - This one lasted from about 2010 or so til 2017.
It had no Block fill etc.

It developed cracks at the bottom of the cylinder barrels which let coolant into the oil.
#6 Had 2 Cracks and #5 had one crack - The #5 crack also was shared by adjacent #6.

Lesson here stay away from crack etc.
Old block - Served me well. .104 overbore.
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Crack between #5 and #6
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Crack on #6 Only
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More #6 Crack - Hard to see.
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Between #5 & #6
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Next I am going to try a "Peanut" Head from Mr. Jeffery:
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Maybe it will be better than my old head..
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While I had stuff apart and my Glyptal out why not glyptal the inside of the Oil pan too?
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Almost Done painting Inside and out.
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A few more nooks and crannies to get to with the glyptal then its Assembly and install time YAY!

Greg
Author:  DadTruck [ Mon Apr 23, 2018 7:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
nice work Greg,, project wise you are about a week ahead of me on the block prepping - painting.
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Apr 24, 2018 5:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
Cool. There is hope for M-D, eh? I am surprised to see those cracks. I guess the blocks do have weak points...

Lou
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Apr 24, 2018 6:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
Quote:
Cool. There is hope for M-D, eh? I am surprised to see those cracks. I guess the blocks do have weak points...

Lou
Maybe I am pushing the boundaries of slant sickness?

No not really... As doc / Seymour say big overbores have their disadvantages - I also dont have an unlimited supply of blocks, so I build what I have.

Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Fri May 04, 2018 6:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Ruster Progress Check 5-4-18
Well Engine build #3 is done. Its surprising how far off factory keyways are off from one crank to another.

I also had to order 12 pushrod adjuster screws for the 1.6 roller rockers.. the old ones were 0.25" too short with this head. One screw arrived without going through the threadform operation. I called smith brothers and they are sending another.

Here's some pics.. drop and bolt tomorrow.
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Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon May 07, 2018 6:28 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
Everything is Bolted in, fluids are in. Oil pump was run to build over 50PSI.

I had to order Longer Pushrod Adjustment screws from Smith Brothers to work with New head. Ordered 12 screws - 11 arrived with threads and 1 was a dud that missed the thread forming operation. They are sending another soon.

I also noticed that my DIY Autotune 36-1 Trigger wheel was cracked. I run it on a 1" mandrel drive with an 1/8" keyway - I tried to repair it but it warped it pretty bad so it's junk.

I ordred another one (this one is a Holley 60-2 Wheel) it is already 1" hole in the middle without other mounting slots - Hopefully it will be more robust.

I Just need to notch it for keyway and reset the Trigger wheel offset and wheel settings in tunerstdio so After all of that is done it should be good to fire.(hopefully this week)

Greg
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