I am getting things done slowly.

First, Here are some pictures of Block #2 - This one lasted from about 2010 or so til 2017.
It had no Block fill etc.

It developed cracks at the bottom of the cylinder barrels which let coolant into the oil.
#6 Had 2 Cracks and #5 had one crack - The #5 crack also was shared by adjacent #6.

Lesson here stay away from crack etc.
Old block - Served me well. .104 overbore.


Crack between #5 and #6


Crack on #6 Only


More #6 Crack - Hard to see.


Between #5 & #6


Next I am going to try a "Peanut" Head from Mr. Jeffery:


Maybe it will be better than my old head..




While I had stuff apart and my Glyptal out why not glyptal the inside of the Oil pan too?





Almost Done painting Inside and out.










A few more nooks and crannies to get to with the glyptal then its Assembly and install time YAY!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

nice work Greg,, project wise you are about a week ahead of me on the block prepping - painting.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Cool. There is hope for M-D, eh? I am surprised to see those cracks. I guess the blocks do have weak points...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Maybe I am pushing the boundaries of slant sickness?

No not really... As doc / Seymour say big overbores have their disadvantages - I also dont have an unlimited supply of blocks, so I build what I have.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Well Engine build #3 is done. Its surprising how far off factory keyways are off from one crank to another.

I also had to order 12 pushrod adjuster screws for the 1.6 roller rockers.. the old ones were 0.25" too short with this head. One screw arrived without going through the threadform operation. I called smith brothers and they are sending another.

Here's some pics.. drop and bolt tomorrow.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Everything is Bolted in, fluids are in. Oil pump was run to build over 50PSI.

I had to order Longer Pushrod Adjustment screws from Smith Brothers to work with New head. Ordered 12 screws - 11 arrived with threads and 1 was a dud that missed the thread forming operation. They are sending another soon.

I also noticed that my DIY Autotune 36-1 Trigger wheel was cracked. I run it on a 1" mandrel drive with an 1/8" keyway - I tried to repair it but it warped it pretty bad so it's junk.

I ordred another one (this one is a Holley 60-2 Wheel) it is already 1" hole in the middle without other mounting slots - Hopefully it will be more robust.

I Just need to notch it for keyway and reset the Trigger wheel offset and wheel settings in tunerstdio so After all of that is done it should be good to fire.(hopefully this week)

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Great news Greg! You have done a lot of work in the last few weeks!

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks, We'll see if it fires and if it has any leaks..

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

5/17/18

This has to be the worst Build I have ever done - I must be getting senile as I tried to fire the thing up over a week ago.. Lots of crankity crankity crankity but it would only pop and wheeze..

I got to thinking about the problem and realized that I centerlined the Cam on #1 Exhaust rather than intake.

Well that will cause your engine not to fire.

Other things that went wrong..

-Massive Oil leak on Pan rail / Scraper
-Water Pump Leak
- Smith Brothers sent 11 out of 12 screws with threads
- Discovered 36-1 trigger wheel was cracked and wiggily; tried to weld it - Turned it into scrap, so I bought a Holley 60-2 Wheel and futz'd with some settings in tuner studio.. got that working.

Old DIYAutotune 36-1 6 3/4" Wheel - They start with 1/2" center hole - enlarged it to 1" with a notch for keyway. - it cracked along the egde where it was clamped by spacers. Tried to weld it which made it garbage.


Comparison of New and old wheel - Holley 60-2 already had a 1" center hole - perfect for my Moroso SBC Mandrel drive which uses 1" Mandrel with keyway.








It's nice to have access to the Cam Gear and chain when you cant time the cam correclty on the engine stand





We'll See if engine build #3 with new Head, Block, Crank will be any better then Engine #1 or #2.

Greg
Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

<flog> will bring results....

We all go through cycles of doofyness. You got it goin', which is the important part! Persistence solves almost everything.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Sounds like we may be brothers!!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I thought you already had one of those?

Maybe More Like Ryan's Brother?

Does that mean I am an Honorary Covalt Clan Member?
I have camped at many Covalt facilities, drove a Covalt Rent a racer, and rented storage for vehicles. o I even Invited you to a party at my House once.



Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I may have missed it but...What radiator are you using and did you weigh it?

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Michael Glass. Mopar stuff and some rusty Mopar stuff!
1965 Dodge Dart with 66 Valiant front clip. Other stuff...

I can get that Info to you.

I dont believe it Have the weight,but if I do It might be in the first 9 or so pages of the post.

I was going to order another one of these rad's for the 64 Dart.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack