Hey Rick,

Did you just cut an area out of the bottom of the bellhousing area on your transmission for the flexplate bolt access? Would you mind posting a pic of that?

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Rick... so you got your mandrel worked out?

I cut a notch in the bottom of the 904 trans for Ruster as well.
@robsimmons - don't over think the notch - it's just that... so you can swing a wrench to tighten the converter to flexplate bolts easily with only cussing 20x under the car instead of 250x.

And It makes your 904 case 0.2384996 ounces lighter..

Well Rick negated the weight savings by putting the external pump on the Left side of the block - Longer lines = More mass

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

No I did not get that worked out yet. I was wondering if I could just use a 3/4" bolt of the proper length with spacers and washers to hold the crank gear onto the crank? Guess it isn't that simple since all the pulleys are 1" ID and our bolt is 3/4". What I am really trying to do is keep from buying a $200 mandrel drive. Plus I have very limited space in front of the balancer to the radiator. There is enough room with the pulley properly spaced, but most of the mandrels I am seeing are really long.

I can get you a picture of the hole Rob if you need it. Nuthin fancy.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I just bought a "bent" box end wrench off Amazon for my converter bolts. I don't need no fancy notches.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Bent wrench was way too simple, plus as Greg says this was lighter! Picture above for Rob.

Greg I build my car more for "ease" of function and simplicity.(Webers excepted because they look too cool!) Ain't no way that external pump was going to fit the P/S in an early A body without some serious modifications!

As far as hoses go I don't think my suction hose will be more than 12-14" long. I am coming straight off the front of my deep pan and going right up into the suction side of my pump. The pick up goes to the back of the pan obviously, but exits the front instead of the right side of the pan, and then a long hose over to the pump. Return to the engine will be a bit longer!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Since I won't spend $200 for a mandrel to drive the oil pump crank gear, I had to make something that will do the job. It didn't appear to be rocket science and with a little thinkin I believe I have the problem solved. (that is of course if it works)

I cut a triangle piece of 3/8" plate and drilled 3 holes for mounting to the crank pulley bolts. Then I drilled a 3/4" hole through the center and this will hold the mandrel centered and the gear back against the mounting plate. I needed some way to get the 3/4" bolt OD to the 1" ID of the gear. I found a sleeve adapter for electric motor shafts that will do the trick. It will slide right over the bolt and be welded to the triangle mounting bracket. It also has a key way already cut into it so I should be able to slide the gear right on to the adapter sleeve and hold it all back in place with the center bolt. Shazam!!! Gear drive mandrel for the cost of the sleeve and a 3/4" bolt. About $15. Add in a couple belt guide spacers and the total is still less than $35. That is more of my price range! Of course if you add in my time it was $399 plus tax!!
I'll update when the sleeve comes in. Now where did I put that crank gear!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Nice

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Cool Idea.

Hope it's not too wobboly and Does'nt come apart or loose.
That's why I did'nt mind paying $ome money for moroso's engineering.

I have seen mandrels come off and come apart. So without access the the right steel and machine tools I left this one to a trusted vendor.
Of course with the stockish rad in the stock location on your car you had to come up with something else.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

If you're sleeving the bolt anyway, why not just use a bolt to start with?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The crank is 3/4" so a 1" bolt would have needed some "machining". Maybe I don't follow what your saying.
A 3/8" steel plate bolted to the balancer with a welded sleeve is driving the small gear. Then a 3/4" bolt holds things centered. I am not sure how much wobble it can have? Then again I may be totally wrong. Time will tell.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

If I am understanding it correctly, you have a sleeve to go over a 3/4" bolt for your pulley. The crank bolt is 3/4". Not understanding the need for the plate?

Anyways, it's a pretty neat piece of engineering Rick.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The plate with it's 3 bolts actually will drive the gear through the adapter sleeve with the keyway. Those 3 bolts will be tie wired so they can not come loose and that will hold the mandrel in place even if the center bolt did get loose. The center bolt is only holding the stack of spacers,belt guides and the gear back tight. All driving force comes through the plate. With the 3 bolts being further out from the center of the crank my thinking was that should make it more stable than just the center bolt itself. Probably over thinking again, but we shall see.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Again, very nice bit of engineering.

I'm too lazy to go all through that.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Adapter sleeve for the bolt/mandrel came in and it fits the Peterson Gilmer pulley perfectly. The fit was a snug press on with my bare hands. I cut a chamfer on my triangle drive plate for the adapter sleeve to sit in and test fit everything. Final welding to come while everything is bolted to the engine. I had to trim a little more off of the aluminum plate I made for the oil pump and that allowed the pump to swing in about a 1/2" closer to the crank centerline. By doing that it allowed me to use the gilmer belt that Howard sent me with the pump and keep it as close to the engine as possible. I spoke to Robbie (welder/body guy) and he will stop over shortly and help me cut / modify the rear 2 header tubes to fit the Webers, and make the final weld on my mandrel adapter. I may even get this in for Mason Dixon I !! Anyone remember the alternator bracket? That is an unmodified 1980 Airport tug bracket! looks like it was made for it. Now you know why I keep so much stuff!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

That is looking pretty sweet. Coming together nicely.
-Matt

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN