Careful with your coil selection; the MSD Blaster coils are now made in China.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have a few spare factory stock coils off of mid 80's 2.2 turbo Dodges...would they be a good alternative? Thanks for all the responses......nico

That's a bummer.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

What is the difference between the the I and the II? I have one that is about 6 years old in my 225 so I suppose there has been a new version?
Thanks-Howard

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65 4-door Dart
70 Chrysler 300
2004 Cummins Ram 3500
1968 Dart GT Convertible-project
Chordomafoundation.org

Last weekend I threw a Pertronix original on my daughter's '61 Plymouth's 225. We had to retard the timing a little bit but the difference over points is incredible!

The big boat no longer fears hills, mileage went up, idle smoothed out and starts are so much easier - and that's important when you're running the old school, non gear reduction, direct drive type starter!

I had a vintage square Accel "blaster" coil that I wanted to install but the daughter didn't like the way it looked so we kept the original coil that Plymouth put on the engine in December 1960.

Funny thing is I have put the same Pertronix in my '64 Fairlane's 260 V8 and in a '68 Dodge crew cab's 383 and though it smoothed them out and brought mileage up it didn't liven up those two near as much as it did the daughter's slant.

I bought all three Pertronix units at O'Reilly's.

This last one was $109 and I had to pre-pay for it.

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nothing is better than happiness in life but a ham sandwich is better than nothing.

Thats good news Karkev, I have a new pertronix II waiting to be installed as soon as I get a little time and I find a suitable coil. I may keep the stock coil if it falls within the guidlelines of the Pertronix II instructions.
How did you wire yours, with the ballast resistor or without?
thanks, nico

Nico, I left the ballast resistor in place and wired straight to the coil. I wired my '68 Dodge crew cab the exact same way and never had a problem with it. There was a pretty big debate on the MOPARTS board about this and it seems to work well either way.

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nothing is better than happiness in life but a ham sandwich is better than nothing.

I use a pertronix I with their 3 ohm coil.

With the 3 ohm coil, you can eliminate the ballast resistor (and any associated problems with a ballast resistor)


The pertronix II is variable dwell and can use any coil without a ballast.

Because of the variable dwell, you can use a low resistance primary side coil (.6-.7 ohm)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

How do your plugs look?
Do they run as light as mine at 50,000 plus miles? Check them at the red link below my name. They are NGK UR4's gaped at .045.
How much voltage do you see at the positive terminal on the coil at an idle?

Thanks,

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I just got a pertronix, and have yet to hook it up. Was wondering the same thing. The installation instructions are pretty vague.
According to the instructions, you're supposed to attach red wire to + coil terminal, and black wire to - coil terminal. But it doesn't say what you're supposed to do with the old wire that used to connect to the + side. I have a ballast resistor, so I was just gonna keep that in there. So do I need to splice into the wire that goes to the + side of the coil? Are you saying you just attached the red to the terminal and left the wire from the ballast there too?

The old wire to the + of the coil stays put as it's the power supply to the coil.

If you're using a ballast resistor, the pertronix will runn better if it's power supply (+ red wire) is berfore the ballast resistor.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

As you can probably tell, wiring is not my forte...
and to make things more interesting, the wiring in my car is pretty hacked up by a previous owner....please forgive my questions if they are stupid, i'm just trying to make sense of the wiring in general....so with the stock wiring, the + wire going to the coil comes off the left side of the BR, but to make it run more smoothly, it would be better the have the + power coming from before the BR (right side)? So what would my best options be? If i'm bypassing the resistor, wouldn't that defeat the purpose of having a BR?
This is assuming a stock coil.

Now, say I was to use the flamethrower coil (3.0 OHM), the instructions say to get rid of the BR. I've been reading a lot of different viewpoints, but nobody seems to agree. Other people say if the car has a BR, it should stay, others say that the flamethrower has internal resistance and needs 12V all the time to run effectively. If i took the BR out of the picture, what would I do with the two female connectors that plug into the BR?

If anyone has pics of their setups, please post. I'm much better with visuals.

Do an internet search for the best price. I got mine for less than $100. I cut and spliced the ballast resistor wires and replaced the existing resistor wire with new 12AWG as per the instructions. I had to really advance the timing using the adjustment under the distributer. So far, I'm very happy with it.

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Ken

65 Dart Convertible Super Sixed

the ballast resistor is needed in the car if u run the stock coil. with a stock coil run the red wire to the (+) side of the BR. the black wire goes to the (-) side of the coil. then u can remove the old wire from the coil to the points.


if u use a coil that needs a full 12v all the time, u can remove the BR completely and follow the directions exactly, and run the red wire to the + side of the coil for its voltage supply