Is it strickly a manual shift, or does it have automatic shifting?

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

well I cracked the 904 open, and bend me over and make me take it !! there is a fine silvery grainy goo on the bottom of the pan= fine particulates of metal mixed with tranny fluid, forms muddy pasty metally goo. no magnet, big surprise , and there is actual metal shavings on the back side (valve body side) of the filter,and theres rust on the surface of the drum, but another concern is that the input shaft, the one that goes in the torque converter, looks like it was crudly ground down just behind the spines, should the outer shaft spin freely ? rotated the inner one freely by hand. and the tail shaft turned by hand.

_________________
I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Am I screwed ? should I back flush the trans and knock any junk out of her ? never got a chance to call summit or my local transtar, on my list of stuff to do tomorrow. can the drum just be sanded to knock the rust off ?

why oh why can nothing in life ever be easy ?

-Mike

_________________
I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Strictly manual but you can convert it to automatic.

Finding some "metallic mud" inside an automatic trans is common.
AAMCO made millions by showing customers this "muck" that is inside every trans pan and then convincing customers that the trans needed rebuilding.

The outer (large diameter) "stator" splines should be solid, and do not turn.
Check the front pump drive blocks, broken drive blocks are a failure point in a TF. If the pump is out, rebuild it by installing a new pump bushing and front seal.

It is OK to sand the rust off the drum surfaces, scuff them hard so the band get a better grip.

Get a FSM and look for the air pressure test, you will want to air pressure test the unit prior to re-installing the valve body.
DD

I do have the transstar 904/727 tear down manual, which has both the hydraulic and air pressure tests in it, Doc any particular grit of sandpaper to knock down the rust ? the inside of the bell housing was really clean, except for some engine oil spatter. but my concern was the fact the end of the stator splines just before and slightly inside the opening for the TC hub look ground down, is that normal ? I will have to take a look at my reman 727 to see if it has the same "wear"


-Mike

_________________
I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Just got off the phone with both Summit and my local Trans star,
the good and bad,

Good trans star has the TF-2 kit for $60, but will match summit at $49.95, coming from orlando will take a day or so to get, and yes it comes with instructions !!!

The bad summit said apparently none of the transgo kits they stock have instructions WTF ?!!! How can you sell a product with no instructions ?

Will be picking the engine up this weekend for $200, and I found out its coming out of a '71 Challenger, guys going to be upgraqding to a bigger motor, had a brain fart, did they make 225's in '71 ? or were they 198's ?

-Mike

_________________
I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

The 198 was the "base" engine, the 225 was also available at a slightly higher cost.
DD

I was about to fix my post, I reread the slant article (from the article index) concerning everything slant, so besides the length of the heater hose that goes between the block and head, is there any other visual clue as to the difference between a 198 and 225 ?

-Mike

_________________
I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

For future reference could you scan the instructions and make them available for reference?

Thank You

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

It is hard to tell the difference between a 198 and a 225.
Look for the ID pad stamping in the top left corner of the block.
DD

would you even want a full manual valve body on the street?

_________________
I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I have one in my Cuda, but it is not a daily driver. A manual VB in a daily driver, can get tiring in a hurry.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

As Doc pointed out, the only way to tell is the stamping. The heater hose is not different. The only differences are inside the engine. Crank and rods only.
The 170 is the one with the short hose. They weren't built in 1971. (And once you've seen a 170, you'll know one when you glance at it.!)

CJ

$0.02 worth:

My car has a reverse manual valve body, a pox on it the evil device. It is a pain in the neck. I have nothing against a manual transmission, but this thing is just hard to drive, that is, the little lock out button action cupeled with straight line shift pattern. More than once my formerly trained "H" pattern hand has tried to shove that dinky lever up in to second which is the big "N" on this thing.

Just set it up to shift normally, with a shift kit if you want, and relax.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC