Can you buy 8 or 9 mm diameter fuel hose (rubber tubing), about 1 meter length, and 2-4 hose clamps to fit that size? Also, you will need to buy or borrow a small metal tubing cutter that you can find at a hardware store or home building supply.

https://www.grainger.com/product/1ATH6? ... lsrc=aw.ds

For this temporary usage, I would just cut the metal fuel line coming out of the fuel pump, and about 10 cm from where it fits to the pump. Unhook the fuel hose from the fuel filter and cut your new hose to length so that the new hose goes over the valve cover and away from the front of the engine, and then into the fuel filter. Make sure the hose does not get anywhere near the exhaust manifold or the top of the cylinder head area next to the valve cover. You can likely suspend the hose loosely with zip ties (cable ties) from the air cleaner so the hose does not hang down.

This would cure any vapor lock issue without requiring you to buy or bend new metal line. It is better to have metal line instead of hose, but it will be fine for what you want. You can order new metal line and bend that to go directly over the valve cover and perpendicular to the engine crankshaft axis, and end near the fuel filter entrance.

Hope this helps,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Great that makes sense!! Will buy it Monday immediately

Would it be more logical to put the fuel filter near the pump, colder side of the engine then?

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

It is usually best to the put the filter as close to the carburetor as possible, but either way will work fine. It should not be much different, heat-wise, and I would put it up by the carb like it is now.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

thanks.

I'll try first with heat deflecting wrap around the iron fuel lines from pump to filter. If that doesn't work i'll install a new fuel hose like you suggested.

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

update so far.

re-routed the fuel lines incl fuel filter away from the manifold --> no difference
replaced all fuel hoses, from tank to lines, from line to pump, from pump to line, from line to filter and from filter to carb --> no difference
removed the fuel pump and tried to install a new one... this was slightly bigger and didn't fit, cause it was stuck on the engine mount...

it looks like the pump pressure is too low.


can i simply install a 12V electrical pump between tank and pump and that's it? or do it need some over-pressure safety ?

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

Hmm. That is too bad. Unfortunately, I wonder if the camshaft lobe that drives the fuel pump is worn down. That is sometimes a cause of low fuel output/pressure from the stock pump. In this case, you would have to replace the camshaft (BIG JOB) or install an electric pump.

You can install an electric pump without pressure protection, BUT you need to make sure it is for a carburetor, not fuel injection. Many companies sell low pressure pumps for carburetors. The maximum pressure needs to be about 7 psi (0.5 bar) Here are a few examples.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-12s
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-427?rrec=true
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-17301?rrec=true

I have used the Mr. Gasket one with great success.

I usually mount this close to the fuel tank under the right rear fram rail just in front of the rear axle. I cut the stock fuel line and use rubber hose to connect it to the pump. The easiest (at least temprorarily) is to run a high amp (15-20 A max) toggle switch on or under the dashboard connected to a "12V switched" source (meaning, only on when the key/ignition switch is in the ON position to have the car running, but not when the switch is off). Then run a wire from the switch back to the pump and run the pump ground to a small screw into the frame rail.

I hope this helps and feel free to ask more questions.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

One last "hack", which I used once with success, until the cam lobe wear went further:

Take a round file and extend the mounting holes on your stock fuel pump ("slot" or "oval" them out) so that the fuel pump will sit lower on the engine block. Get a round file (5-7 mm diameter) to do this by hand power, and/or use a 1/4" drill bit or carbide cutter on an electric hand drill to do this. Extend the holes by 2-4 mm then bolt the pump back in and make sure to push down on the pump just as you are doing the final tightening of the bolts. This hopefully will have the pump arm contacting the cam lobe so that more of the cam lobe lift will move the pump arm.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

thanks.
I've installed a 12V 0.38 bar (5,5 psi) electric pump. Great succes, enough fuel in the filter, car picks up great and runs great

BUT
the oil light turns on after a couple seconds and stays on.
Oil level is not rising. I have had great help from Slant Six Dan so far. I'll clean the oil pressure relieve valve and if that doesn't work. I just take my chance and drive it for about 15 miles with the light on.

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

Glad to know the fuel pump fixed it.

Are you sure the oil light wire is not grounding somewhere? That is strange it would stop making oil pressure after the engine is running. If the light does not go out when you rev the engine up a little, I would suspect the circuit or the oil pressure sending unit on the oil pump is bad. You might have knocked the oil pressure switch wire loose when you were installing the fuel pump?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Is measured the switch and it has no resistance…

Drove 10 miles yesterday. It runs great. Thanks all

Today it’ll be the day

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

Greetings from Switzerland!
I have a 2bbl Carbi and an 2bbl intake Manifold, but no Gasket carbi -> manifold.
I also have a 4bbl Manifold, but no Carbi.
Let me know if you are interested.

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62 Valiant
62 Lancer

I would love to see those Swiss '62's you have Philipp!

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

These are my Swiss Buikt Cars:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15wejx3 ... sp=sharing
(I hope the link is working...)
The Valiant is a 1962 with 170cuin and automatic gear. I am the 3rd owner, first owner was the owner of a local beer brewery, he sold the car in 1967 to an electric engineer (he changes the color from silver to jade-green) I bougth the car in 2008 with 150'000 km / 94'000mls. I changed the color to Chrysler Sunglow Yellow. Interior is red.
The Lancer is a 1962 with 225cuin aluminium engine. I am the 2nd owner, first owner was a lady. She drove the car only for her weekly bridge game evening. After she passed away, i bougth the car with only 60'000 km / 37'500mls

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62 Valiant
62 Lancer

Dutch Dart: Congratulations on your marriage! I hope the car featured well in the ceremony (or afterwards).

Nice Suisse Valiants, Phillipp!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

What makes you say so? I don't agree.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.