Hi there,

I've managed to understand the English language, but unfortunately that's completely different from US car-language...
cubic inches, inches, specific wheelbase differences and all the other variables...

I just need a complete new exhaust from manifold to the rear, but somehow I get questions what kind of transmission, wheelbase etc the car has... I have absolutely no idea.
would this fit my needs? https://www.accurateltd.com/63-74-A-Bod ... p_193.html


Other question; the carburettor isn't the best anymore. The bottom (where it is fitted on the manifold) isn't straight anymore. Now when hitting the throttle there's too much gasoline... It's a one barrel carb, unknown what brand since the identification tag is gone.
question: please what carb can I simply buy and ship to The Netherlands?
question2: is there a any double barrel carb that easy fits and can replace a single barrel carb?

thanks in advance

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

It looks like you have a choice of two options for the earlier 63-66 cars. I am guessing that the longer wheelbase cars would be the 4 door sedan, and wagon model... so that would leave you with the 106 inch wheelbase.. Check and see if your car has a 269 Cm wheelbase...

As for your carburetor issues: Having a warped base, might be fixable locally..

I'm NOT a fan of "new" carbs, as they are a one size fits all situation... But if you are determined to go that route a couple of options are https://www.carburetor-parts.com Or https://www.daytonaparts.com could get you started. The first link will help you identify what you have.. that will be important when it comes time to order any type of rebuild kit, or a replacement carb.

Finally a 2 bbl carb is an option, tho you would need to ether modify the intake manifold, or get the factory 2bbl manifold. If you can weld, or know someone who will, than modifying your own might make sense.

Well in winter I don't drive the car so it is stored in my garage.
Last month it has had a complete exhaust rebuild and a new old carb. Ball & Ball 6-1456.

The car run's as smooth as can be.. you can hardly hear the engine and (maybe it is swearing here) it reminds me of older BMW 6 cilinder engines from late 80's / early 90's They ran beautiful as well...
Drove it on the highway, 60mph / 70mph no problem.

BUT....


suddenly engine stall.. No fuel in fuel filter.
The strange thing is, the fuel doesn't come regularly while running idle, it has 'waves'... a couple seconds there is fuel coming into the filter... then for several seconds nothing, and then there's a bit again.
Last night I parked the car, fuel filter completely empty. This morning, it is filled to the max.

How can it fill up overnight? does it run back from the carb?
My thoughts; either it is the fuel pump (how to check?) or there's a something in the fuel lines or tank that is blocking it.

Anyone a clue where to start?

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

just took a look at the car; fuel filter is completely filled up again (empty after parking last night).


could there be a vacuum issue? since fuel is slowly getting into the filter when the car stands still...
The car is now parked in the corner of the garage, hard to reach under the car. I expect there's a vacuum valve somewhere at the fuel tank, maybe in the fuel line from tank to pump and at the carb?

Wanna try to figure this out in short notice

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

This sounds like a fuel line or fuel pickup (in tank) blockage/limit issue. You could try using compressed air (maybe 20-40 psi) to blow back through the fuel line (filter removed) into the tank. You could also pull out the pickup out of the fuel tank and check that for breakage/cracks or blockage. There is a little plastic "sock" at the bottom of the pickup that can break or become cloogged. There may be rust in the tank too.

Also, the tank should have a vent to the atmosphere that goes from the fuel tank filler neck out the bottom of the trunk floor through a small metal line. Look inside the trunk, near where the filler neck hits the rear quarter panel. If the vent is blocked, that could cause your problem.

Please try a few things and ask more questions. Hope we can help you get this sorted out.

Best wishes,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well, took it for a drive tonight. After let’s say 5km / 3 miles the filter is nearly empty but it still ran. Took out the fuel line from the fuel pump that comes from the tank, blew some air in it and I heard air come up in the tank. So nothing clogged there. The air vent from the tank, that bents and twist near the filling pipe isn’t clogged either.
So, could only be between pump and filter (can’t get the fuel line disconnected from the pump yet, it’s now soaked in wd40 and I’ll try tomorrow)
Or it is the pump itself I guess

Does anyone have a part number for it soon can order it. I want to use the car in 2 weeks when I get married…

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

I think this is the one; Carter Mechanical Fuel Pumps M60577

https://oldschoolproducts.nl/shop/Brand ... ndstofpomp

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

2 or 3 thoughts
I've seen both of these over the years neither on a /6 but could have been... Carbureted, mechanical fuel pump, and on one points ignition/
My mom's 84 5th Ave
The sock in the tank plugged up and it would suck the line dry and die when the carb ran dry .. would not let enough thru to cover the demand.
And 2 things that happened on a neighbors 70 (ugh) F100 a couple of years apart.
One time we thought sure it was fuel related, ended up being a cad condenser. He'd tuned it up, all new cap rotor plugs and wires and a while new (reman?) Distributor..... New condenser ended up being bad.
Another time, same truck, found a gas line that was collapsing, sucking itself shut back by the tank/ just a short nipple of hose 4-6" long where the line coming from the tank (which is in the cab) where it joins the chassis hard line they had a short hose for vibration purposes
Neighbor still has this truck, his dad bought brand new.

Valiants are 106-inch wheelbase and Darts are 111-inch wheelbase. All wagons are 106-inch wheelbase. This is for 63-66 A body cars at least for the north American market.

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63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

That looks like the right fuel pump. That is a good thing to try. It sounds like you have clear fuel lines. I assume you replaced the fuel filter already...

Here is another fuel pump, if they will ship it to you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282549237564?c ... qsQAvD_BwE

Another one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185540696960?c ... IAQAvD_BwE

These should be a good old brands/parts that will likely be better than more recently manufactured parts. If it were me and my wedding were in 2 weeks, I would order both. I am not sure this Ebay seller will ship to you, though.

Another option (at least temporarily) would be to get an external electric fuel pump and just run a toggle switch on the dash to turn it on.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-12s

Best of luck!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

1) you say to check the fuel tank (remove the gauge unit I guess?)
2) cap condensor (???)
3) havent found a vaccuum in the line, so I've eliminated that option

thanks, I've ordered the one in The Netherlands, since shipping will definately take too long. External electric fuel pump is above my technical knowledge and I don't have the time to do such adjustments. So I have all my hopes set on the new oilpump.

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

A fire waiting to happen, get a metal fuel filter.

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63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

It is also possible you have "vapor lock" when it warms up. You could simpliy re-route the fuel line over the top of the valve/rocker cover to the carb. Get a piece of metal line and bend it from the fuel pump to where the fuel filter sits. This may be your whole problem.

I have never really worried about plastic fuel filters for regular street driven cars (no severe service or racing), but I do use metal ones because I do put my cars through a lot (including racing). Racing organizations want metal filters for safety.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That really could be it…
The temperatures here have been around 30c, or as you call it 86F.

I’ve been going through this thread https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopi ... 19&t=27470

The problem is, you guyes speak a different language with inches and specific hoses. It’s not a part of my day to day English vocabulary

So please have some patience with me if I might ask a dumb question;
I do have a complet new carb; could the gas get too hot in there so the fuel problem originated there? Or will the temperature get too hot in the metal fuel line going from pump to filter?
It’s all original on this car so no modifications whatsoever.

Since I’m no way near the possibility to find fuel lines with US sizes here in Europe, there isn’t such a huge after market car spare part industry as in the US.
In what way can I, just for the time being, insulate the fuel line and make a heat deflector of some kind?

It just needs running the 1st of July… after that I have all the time to figure a long lasting solution that is sustainable and constructive for longer period of time

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Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible