Went back downstairs and checked. No pentastar I can see.

Difficult to tell then. It could be an original or a replacement of the original type steel shim gasket.

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I edited this thread title since I've been asking questions beyond reusing head bolts and posting general updates.

Another thought I'm pondering is re-assembly. I decided to save my back and use an engine hoist to pull the head. Since I'm doing the same for install I'm wondering if it might make life easier to go ahead and assemble the manifolds to the head outside the truck and then drop that whole assembly into place or would it be too unwieldly?

Lifting the head on and off using the engine hoist with the manifolds attached is a great idea. That's the method I used on my last head/manifolds swap and I was glad I did. The two 3/8" threaded holes in the center of the head provided a secure, balanced lifting point for the whole assembly.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Offenhauser Four Barrel Intake, Parallel-mounted 500 CFM Edelbrock, Split Cast Iron Exhaust, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

So I'm getting ready to order new manifold studs from McMaster-Carr. 13 studs right? Part number 94358A270? https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3624/94358A270

Also the slotted nuts, I only need two? Shame they only come it a pack of 10. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3647/94820A240

Also found this as an option but yikes that's pricey https://www.moparmall.com/Slant-Six-Man ... 25-005.htm

Yes, 13 studs is correct.
If you haven’t already read it, I would recommend checking out this manifold installation article. https://www.slantsix.org/articles/Slant ... lation.htm
Good luck with your install.

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Offenhauser Four Barrel Intake, Parallel-mounted 500 CFM Edelbrock, Split Cast Iron Exhaust, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Those are not really the correct studs. The ones you listed have a hex drive. McMaster-Car does not have the "correct" studs. The ones listed can be used.
The correct studs are listed in my post on the 1st page of this thread.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Doing some more searching last night I found someone on Ebay selling stud kits and reproduction triangle washers. I might go that route instead.

I'm moving slowly as I wait to hear from the machine shop that there's no cracks and the head isn't too warped.

I think I know the answer to this question but I'm going to ask you more experienced folks just to make sure. I think the exhaust manifold will have to be condemned. I went to clean it up and check for warpage and realized the gasket surface of the leading port is rusted away. If I grind that smooth it's probably never going to seal. I've also included a pic of the trailing port for comparison.

Looks like junk to me. Sorry to see that. Must have had a bad exh leak at the gasket for a while, or maybe coolant coming into that cylinder.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Why do you say this like it's a bad thing? Much, much easier to install/remove…

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

×2, yup, that manifold's Done. Follow links in my previous post in this thread for manifold selection, gaskets, etc.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

They are not better or worse, just different. I see people listing for manifold hardware that some want "original", others just "functional". so just making a statement.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Edit to update: I got one free. Answers my question. The holes in the intake aren't threaded so even if I snap the other bolt off I can get the intake free. Don't care about the exhaust because it's scrap anyway.

OK, please tell me the bolts that hold the intake and exhaust together just pass through unthreaded holes and then take nuts on the end. The nuts came off with surprising ease but I can't get the manifolds apart. I then tried to remove the two long bolts and they don't want to budge.