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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 8:49 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2024 5:08 am
Posts: 34
Car Model: 1972 Dodge D100
Going to be pulling the head on my 1972 D100 hopefully soon. When I put it back together should I get new head bolts or are the ones in it reusable? It's never been apart before as far as I know.

I did a search but 5 pages in I didn't see any conclusive discussion.


Last edited by ScottJ175 on Sat Nov 09, 2024 6:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 8:59 am 
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The old bolts are reusable. Recommend chasing the threads in the block, and lightly oil the bolt threads and under the bolt head. Another little trick, is to fill the water holes in the head (while on the bench) with shaving cream. That way when putting the head on the block, any trash (rust, etc) in the head will not fall out and be on the gasket surface. As soon as you put water in the engine, the shaving cream dissolves.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2024 9:25 am 
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That's a good trick!

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2024 1:40 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2024 5:08 am
Posts: 34
Car Model: 1972 Dodge D100
I'm working slowly and in short sessions. Got the passenger side of the engine stripped and just got the manifolds loose. They're in a bind with the exhaust pipe so I need to loosen it so I can get enough droop. The manifold nuts were about the nightmare I expected. None broke (but I did break one on the divorced choke thermostat :( ) but 4 did come out with the studs.

What's a good source for new manifold studs? Might as well deal with the 52 years of rust while I have it apart.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2024 1:57 pm 
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Quote:
The manifold nuts were about the nightmare I expected. None broke (but I did break one on the divorced choke thermostat
Groan. You might want to take the opportunity to un-handcuff yourself from the '70-'72 exhaust manifold, and at the same time greatly increase the odds that your R&R job will wind up tight/unleaky and with everything working for a long time.

Specifically, the '70-'72 manifolds have an open "stove" (hole directly into the inside of the manifold) at the top of the № 5 runner. This is sealed (kindasorta, not very well) by a stamped sheetmetal cup that fits into the hole, with a (no longer available) gasket around its perimeter. On top of this cup is bolted the choke thermostat. If you are bound and determined to run this manifold, and there's any kind of a fault with or near the choke—doesn't work quite correctly, rod all tweaked and bent, rusty AF, exhaust leaks, etc—fabricate a blockoff plate and cut a suitable gasket for it, then plop a № 1231 electric choke kit on and be permanently done with choke problems.

Given its age, this manifold is likely warped, and there's a high likelihood of cracks and/or heat control valve faults as well, so unless you have no budget, you're best off installing a carefully chosen new exhaust manifold. Good idea to put in all new manifold studs while you are at it; it can easily save you multiple kinds of aggravation and badness later on. Find hardware and mounting-technique info here and here.

It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head, intake-to-exhaust, and exhaust-to-headpipe junctions.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2024 2:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
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The manifold studs used to be available (and cheap) through Silver Seal but they no longer have them. Has anyone found anywhere to get them at in bulk? I usually bough 3 or 4 sets at a time.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2024 4:35 pm 
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Quote:
The manifold studs used to be available (and cheap) through Silver Seal but they no longer have them. Has anyone found anywhere to get them at in bulk? I usually bough 3 or 4 sets at a time.
2 inch: https://www.dixied.com/product2471.html
1 3/4 inch: https://www.dixied.com/product2470.html
I buy mine locally at a nut and bolt store

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2024 4:42 pm 
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I got my most recent ones a year ago from an old school parts store whose parts counter was a huge dorman cabinet.
Next choice would be to hit up McMaster Carr.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2024 4:47 pm 
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Quote:
I got my most recent ones a year ago from an old school parts store whose parts counter was a huge dorman cabinet.
Next choice would be to hit up McMaster Carr.
I just spoke to McMaster car on the phone (1 hour ago) they do not have any thing with course thread on one end and fine thread on the other end.
The link I posted is for the ones I use. Just that I have them available locally.

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65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2024 7:35 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2024 5:08 am
Posts: 34
Car Model: 1972 Dodge D100
Thanks for all that helpful info. My exhaust manifold looks exactly like that one from Dorman you recommend in another thread so maybe it isn't original? The little cup for the thermostat isn't open to the exhaust stream. I've posted the numbers cast into it.

I'm down to just the head bolts. Have to loosen them and then maneuver my hoist through my crowded garage. Not going to attempt just heaving that head out of there. Appears there was lots of rust under the valve cover that came off when I whacked it with a rubber mallet to break it free.



Quote:
Quote:
The manifold nuts were about the nightmare I expected. None broke (but I did break one on the divorced choke thermostat
Groan. You might want to take the opportunity to un-handcuff yourself from the '70-'72 exhaust manifold, and at the same time greatly increase the odds that your R&R job will wind up tight/unleaky and with everything working for a long time.

Specifically, the '70-'72 manifolds have an open "stove" (hole directly into the inside of the manifold) at the top of the № 5 runner. This is sealed (kindasorta, not very well) by a stamped sheetmetal cup that fits into the hole, with a (no longer available) gasket around its perimeter. On top of this cup is bolted the choke thermostat. If you are bound and determined to run this manifold, and there's any kind of a fault with or near the choke—doesn't work quite correctly, rod all tweaked and bent, rusty AF, exhaust leaks, etc—fabricate a blockoff plate and cut a suitable gasket for it, then plop a № 1231 electric choke kit on and be permanently done with choke problems.

Given its age, this manifold is likely warped, and there's a high likelihood of cracks and/or heat control valve faults as well, so unless you have no budget, you're best off installing a carefully chosen new exhaust manifold. Good idea to put in all new manifold studs while you are at it; it can easily save you multiple kinds of aggravation and badness later on. Find hardware and mounting-technique info here and here.

It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head, intake-to-exhaust, and exhaust-to-headpipe junctions.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2024 10:19 am 
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That's a '73-up manifold set (intake + exhaust), so you avoid the choke-cup problems mentioned. Does the heat control valve work? You'd still want the № 1231 electric choke.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2024 6:47 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2024 5:08 am
Posts: 34
Car Model: 1972 Dodge D100
Quote:
That's a '73-up manifold set (intake + exhaust), so you avoid the choke-cup problems mentioned. Does the heat control valve work? You'd still want the № 1231 electric choke.
I think the valve works. Haven't really paid much attention to it. I was just focused on getting it running and was about to tune the carb when I started getting pressure in the cooling system.

With the newer manifolds I wonder what all has been done to it. I looked the block casting number up a few months ago and it tracks to 71-72. I did notice the valve springs still have some green paint on them.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:27 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2024 5:08 am
Posts: 34
Car Model: 1972 Dodge D100
Well someone has been here before. I don't believe it left the factory with a MLS head gasket.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:31 pm 
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Maybe, maybe not.

They left the factory with a single layer steel gasket.
Look for a pentastar in the middle.

If it was replaced before it would likely be a composite napa, mahle , fel-pro or other aftermarket gasket.
Yours looks original to me.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:50 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2024 5:08 am
Posts: 34
Car Model: 1972 Dodge D100
I'm sending the head out for a check & deck. But how best to clean up the block since I left it in the truck. Scotch Brite pads?


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