Man, I cant imagine how much fun it would be to drive all the way out to Vegas and see all the Mopars! Unfortunetly.... I got final exams coming up soon, and it will be the same story for the next few years

Maybe In a few years I'll start going, once Ive graduated

On the bright side, this gives me lots of time to work on the car!

Hit a snag tonight. I must have hit the fuel tank sender with the diff. The fuel line is loose at the plate and dripping. Is it welded in? Some kind of seal? Can I get one or fix mine tomorrow? JB Weld???

AND I got the wrong drums from the parts house. 4.5" bc. I replaced everything but the backing plate in the brakes. I even installed Stainless Steel lines I've had lying around for a year or so.

Drums I think I can get tmorrow. I pick up my shortened drive shaft in the morning. The sender is another story. That's all that's left.

HELP!

Mike

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Originally I think it was just crimped on. I had a leak there too with mine when I replaced the hoses, I must of yanked a bit too hard on the rubber line when removing it and seperated the small length of steel tube coming out just a tiny bit.

I'm not sure if JB Weld will hold under gas. I had someone weld mine (may of used some sort of special solder?) together and its holding so far. IIRC the metal circle that it attaches to is galvanized.

I don't know how desperate you are but new senders are availible for roughly $100 and I bet you can find a place thats willing to overnite one to you. Junkyards would be a good bet too.

Just be careful when removing/attaching the rubber hose to it.

Mike,

Any sender from A-bodies '63-76 will work, so that opens up lots of possibilities for you. There's the overnight route, or just a local junkyard should have one, eh?

JB Weld would almost certainly work, and silver solder would be your best bet, although even radiator solder would work. Use a propane torch to heat the metal, put on some flux (or use flux core rad solder), and melt the solder onto the part.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes, the sender tube is soldered into the cover plate, they do crack and drip.

Drain the fuel level to under 1/2 tank, pull-out the sending unit assy. and resolder it. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep "thrashing", you will get there!
Doug

I would completely drain the tank or pull out the entire sender before soldering it. If you heat up the plate/tube to solder, you'll be heating up the entire tube behind it that extends into the tank, and thats a bit dangerous with something as volatile as gas. Also you might melt the rubber sealing ring between the tank and the sender.

HOLY #$%^! I totally meant for any soldering to be done w/sender outside the car. I didn't think of anyone trying it with the sender in place and gas dripping...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Let's see.

I got my drive shaft back fro Cannon with 1 7/8" removed. Won't know if it's right till tonight.

Got up early this morning and dropped the tank. The whole thing. Took it to a radiator guy I've used for years. He soldered it up for $25.

All of the brake parts are in. The parts guy is pulling his hair out. First he ordered 10" drums with 4.5" BC. Took those back this morning. I know I should always check. At lunch I went to pick up the drums, 4" BC 9" drums. I'm going by after work to see if he got it right this time. Those suckers were steep.

Still on schedule.

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Just incase the parts store guys don't come through, I have a pair of 10" SBP drums, brand new, sitting on the floor doing nothing. You can have them for what I paid + shipping (which I assume you would want overnite, not going to be cheap, but probably not too bad since I'm just east of SanFrancisco....) I recall looking around locally for these and no one could get them for me.

Just incase you need the part #: autospecialty (TRW brand) AD8344 10" x 1 3/4" (Be careful, there were also 10" x 2 1/2" drums used on b/e bodies as well).

I'm going by the parts store at 4:30. If they're not right you'll be the first to know. What's the cutoff for instate fedex/UPS? If I completely lose my mind I'll jack up my wagon and borrow those. Come to think of it They were the drums from the 8 3/4 I got from you Lou. See what happens when I try and cut corners.

Mike

_________________
1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Just called a UPS store and they said 4:30. I'll try fedex next if need be.

Sounds like getting them off the wagon is by far the easiest. I knew I had sent drums with you...

Good job on the tank. Now you'll have a good test run of all your mods on the way to Vegas...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

No good. I ran by my next best source. No good Discontinued!!! I have one more source in the morning. I didn't think 10" SBC 1 3/4 drums would be that hard.

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Could I put the 9" drum brakes on the 8 3/4 rearend? I know, It's stupid. Just might work

Mike

_________________
1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Mike,

I couldn't believe how hard they were to find as well. I tried more then a handful of different parts stores/distributors and they either didn't show a listing or showed them as discontinued. I got mine from www.megapartsusa.com

Click on catalogue, then the first link "AA Mopar" then about 10 down is the rear brake drum section.