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Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13675		 Page 3 of 3
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sat Mar 28, 2026 3:15 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
The mounts I got from Johmey, for my 64 Valiant, are the same thickness as the stock rubber mounts. I needed them to raise the oil pan/motor off the "K" member.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Mar 28, 2026 8:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
Quote:
I needed them to raise the oil pan/motor off the "K" member.
Me too. Mine was really close!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Mar 29, 2026 8:40 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
I wonder if Dutch might have received the 2469 mounts rather than the 2303-2304 mounts correct for his '64.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Mar 29, 2026 6:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
That mount is definitely shorter.
Author:  Dutch Dart GT 64 [ Wed Apr 01, 2026 4:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
Quote:
I wonder if Dutch might have received the 2469 mounts rather than the 2303-2304 mounts correct for his '64.
the where 12mm short... so an iron plate is now installed, since the rubber old ones where too fare gone to re-install.
The car is o-kay when driving it, but stationairy the whole car is rattling. I will have to look for rubber ones again since I am definately not gonna drive with this it's a damn waste.
The engine is so extremely smooth, I changed all fluids, from gearbox to dif to engine oil and there is no sign of any wear or metallic residu. The car is mechanicaly extremely well; but this just ruines the whole car...

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Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Apr 01, 2026 11:38 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
12mm too short = definitely not the right parts.
Author:  mcnoople [ Wed Apr 01, 2026 12:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
Quote:
Quote:
adding a flex joint can go a long way to decreasing noises. The solidly mounted exhaust systems are basically a sound tube that is 11 feet long.
»Zonk!« This is a great idea! I wish it had occurred (or been suggested) to me years ago.

Could also make it much easier to have a new headpipe made – doing it all with rigid pipe poses difficulty with that tricky first curve/bend below the manifold outlet. It used to be common advice (when the wrecking yards were full of Slant-6 cars) to take the first ~foot of headpipe from a '77+ / Super Six so as to obtain that bent part, with the right curve and the flange at the correct angle/orientation, then let the exhaust shop weld onto that pipe.

To put in a flex, I imagine buying or make something that looks like this, then go rearward from there. I'd want to delete the headpipe-to-bellhousing clamp (if present), so as not to re-transmit engine vibration to the pipe below the flex.
Quote:
My daily driver for the last 6 years has been a late 90's manual trans honda CRV. These early crvs were not known for good NVH. Mine is quiet entirely because I took the time to address the issues the factory didn't.
What-all did you do? My '14 Mazda 6 is also a model known for being not very quiet inside.
little late to notice my notifications...

When I got my crv I pulled the entire interior and drove it naked sheetmetal for a while. I cleaned the roof and installed butyl mat (dynamat) on the inside of the roof sheetmetal. Then I used a layer of thinsulate before reinstalling the headliner. This headliner is a modern composite board material with a felt like material on the passenger face.

I used the same butyl mat on much of the steel behind the interior panels. I basically went around tapping the panels with my fingertips, if it resonated I adding some butyl until the sound changed. The plastic trim panels had a layer of 5mm closed cell foam stuck to the inside of them anywhere that I could fit it without making the panels bulge. I added more thinsulate in places that allowed for it.

The floor was more butyl with the same tapping for resonance. This was followed with a layer of a 3/8"-1/2" synthetic carpet underlayment under the factory carpet.

It is definitely a lot of work and only worth it on a car you plan on keeping for a while. When I got my crv it was an un-rusted california all wheel drive manual trans with a good interior/exterior. So I figured it was worth the effort.


as far as where to add the flex coupler to an existing exhaust. I would probably leave the solid mount at the bellhousing and put the flex coupler just behind it. I think they added that solid bellhousing mount to take some of the weight off of the exhaust manifold. I have long wondered if the cracking manifolds were caused by poorly supported tailpipes causing vibrations and strain that broke after runner #3. Flex couplers don't like to twist, they last longer if they only flex.
Author:  Dutch Dart GT 64 [ Wed Apr 01, 2026 1:58 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
Quote:
12mm too short = definitely not the right parts.
nope, and I specificaly asked for the right parts... did cost me about $ 227 parts & shipment and another $80 customs...
Then I needed a mechanic to put them in; which costs about $90 an hour over here... Then they didn't fit so it had to be custom made to get the car even running...
i'm not a mathematician but I do know when something costs me way too much for this crap... The whole ride is ruined and it's probably gonna cost me a lot more time & money to get the car fine again.
At the moment I am not in my happy space
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Apr 01, 2026 5:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
But…why didn't you contact Johnny and tell him the parts are wrong?
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Thu Apr 02, 2026 3:54 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
Quote:
only way to get them mounted right is with spacers in between..
Were they allowing the engine to sit too low in the K frame? Pan hitting the frame? I will be happy to measure mine and see how tall they are. I know that won't help you but if they are the same as mine then something else is going on. Sorry for your troubles.
Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Apr 02, 2026 6:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Changing Motor Mounts- Engine In Car
Weird. I have used multiple sets of those mounts on my 64 Dart, 66 Valiant and 62 Valiant with no fitment issues. You must have received the wrong ones. They will probably transmit more vibration, which I would not notice since I have bumpier high HP engines.

Lou
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