Toyota 8" truck axle has a removable center section and they're strong.


I believe the 2wd version is 5x4.5 (and maybe later 4wd)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

That's probably right, thanks. It's also probably irrelevant, though, since the likelihood of my polluting my Dart with Furd parts - - oh heck, check my earlier ramblings in this thread ...
Thank you most kindly for the suggestion. But, if I'm that reluctant to stick a Furd axle under my Mopar, what makes you think I'd use a foreign one?

Folks, I truly do appreciate all the comments and suggestions, even those I've rejected out of hand. I'm right about 99% decided to go with front disk brake kit with new spindles and upper A arms and the same vendor's graphite complete front suspension kit. Will be going to 4 1/2" bolt pattern and 15" wheels painted blue to match the car for kind of a sleeper look.

Just a couple more questions, haggling over a couple of details, then find an installer. Please be so kind as to wish me good luck!

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

We all wish you the best of luck and want to see as many mopars on the road. I personally would be happier to see an old mopar on the road with some other brands parts on it than not see it on the road at all. I hope the best for you and that it all works out.

There is still a problem with the title of this thread asking for logical and cost effective parts. No way is new spindles, A-arms, and "Poly" bushings fall under that statment.

Mike, thanks for the kind words. I, too would rather see old mopars out there even if they have another brand's parts in them. But I'd rather that my mopars are darn near all mopar. To me, it's kinda a slippery slope deal. If it's OK to put a Ford axle under a mopar, why not a Chivvy engine?
Maybe I lean more to logical. My idea is to replace the 49 year old parts with new ones and never have to do it again. As to cost effective, what is my time worth trying to find antique parts in junkyards, or driving to wherever there might be some mopars in a junkyard, or cleaning and repairing the old parts that, after all, were in the junkyard for a reason? I know some folks find joy in the hunt, but I keep thinking of the cartoon of the two buzzards sitting on a limb and one says "Patience my azz, I'm gonna go kill something"

Of course opinions differ, and I thank God for that. Wouldn't it be boring if everybody had the same opinions?

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

A Ford is a Dodge.

Frikken
Old
Rebuilt
Dodge

I am a hot rodder. I don't care what brand parts I use, as long as the beating heart is Mopar.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

The poly bushings on Ryan's Duster squeak setting still!! Don't think I would go that route if I planned to drive it a lot.

Also, I don't remember what car you have, But you can do the F body spindles and control arms a lot cheaper than even the 73-76 A body stuff. I bought the complete front set up on Ryans Dart for $50. I cleaned, painted, and installed new bushings, and it was ready to go. This set up is debated too, but it works fine and has been on my sons car for several years.

Rick

Whoops!! re-read the thread! You don't like junk yard runs. Scratch the above that I wrote. All new stuff will set you back a bit.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Ask extra questions when you're shopping around, then; take care you don't get a Canadian axle. That'll be difficult, because starting in 1967 Canadian and US autos and parts flowed freely across the border in both directions and a lot of cars sold new in the States were made in Canada. But it'll be worth the effort so you don't wind up with a foreign axle in your car.
Because we don't live in a yes/no, either/or, black/white kind of world, that's why.

Look, nobody's going to force you to give up your preferences and opinions and priorities—nobody can. But you are building a car nearly half a century old (and statistically doesn't exist), the newest cars that could provide a direct rear axle swap are 37 years old (and mostly no longer exist), the newest Mopars that could provide a rear axle swap with some reworking and alteration are 24 years old (and few and far between). That means your "cost effective/logical" and "100% Mopar" goals are in direct conflict. You will either have to bide your time and wait until you stumble upon the axle you want, or choose which is the higher priority.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, they have! Should arrive about the middle of next week. I'm also paying someone to do the install. I don't have the tools, experience, or safe work place. Thanks for all the comments, folks. Progress report will follow.

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

While I respect emsvitil's opinion, I gotta agree with Dan when it comes to brakes. I've had a variety of A-bodies over the years as daily drivers. 13", 14", 15" tires, (bias & radial); 9" & 10" drums; manual & power disc .
You CAN live with drum brakes, but you have to drive very conservatively- but all it took was one emergency stop from highway speeds to convince me that drums are NOT adequate for modern traffic patterns (ie, longer stopping distances than other cars, wander & pull, etc). Forget mountains, a minor hill descent will overheat 9" drums with 14" radials. Don't overlook how poorly drums function if you get them wet at all (ie, drive thru a puddle).

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

What's foreign? As Dan stated stuff went back & forth- three of my Darts were Canadian made. Of course definitions shift if you're north of the border to begin with.

Those great Nipondenso starters were designed in Japan & built all over the globe. Lots of "imports" are built/assembled in US plants.

Of all the criteria to use for a parts upgrade choice, the original car brand (Mopar-GM-Ford etc) is pretty far down on my list.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Well. y'all may be surprised at this, then! I've found a really nice set of front seats out of (brace yourselves) a '97 Mercedes E320!

And the star is going on the dashboard!

So. how's that for living in a black and white world, folks?:D

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!