Thanks Mark!

Yep It's all in the Plan.

I will be making windows this summer!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I got the LR Wheelhouse raduised to the wheel / Tire so Now it kinda looks like the right side.

I ended up getting 1# of metal out of the car by doing so

Now at 318.5# lost since November 2010.

Pics:



















Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Ron Parker is grinning somewhere...

Thanks Lou Madsen

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

4.30 that sounds pretty rad.
what RPM through the 1/4 traps are you turnning?
also what is your rear tire diameter?

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Hi Jon,

It was a 4.30 - It's now a 4.56 and it's 6400 Through the traps at 103MPH.

I am trying some other shocks - The air shocks may or may not return.

Also the Rear tire is 29" tall I believe - I have to check fo' sho'.

Hopefully you will see ruster in all it's faded glory in less than 2 weeks at hagerstown!


Thanks,

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

do you have frame connectors?
do you run a driveshaft loop?
do you disconect the power wire to the altneator when you race?

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

YEP
YEP
No, I could wire a switch into the Field of the alternator, but haven't tried that yet.

I like the ignition systen to have as much power to it as possible when making runs.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

do you have a trans brake?
do you run high front tire air pressure..?

runs only last 12 seconds?
old school Dragracing would actually un plug the altnerator here.

http://www.physicsforums.com/archive/in ... 22378.html

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

No transbrake - Footbrake only Yes It has workd for me so far - Less rolling resistance



Maybe I will try some sort of micro switch on WOT that activates a relay to turn off the field when I floor it.

Again, All in the works, but Havent tried it.

I think It would be better to just get rid of the alternator all togther, but I dont lug a battery charger and generator around with me to the races too much yet.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

To answer an Eariler Question, I have 27X10.5-15 Rear Slicks,

NOT 29" tall slicks,

Thursday Wnet to TNT, Guys at the track said Altitude air was 2800'

Only made one Run, and Was called up & sitting in Lanes for run #2 before some kinda oildown stopped things for a bit, then Race control sent us back to the trailers then it poured

Anyway I got a raincheck on that to use for another time and I ran a 13.18@103.16

Typically Runs 2, 3 go faster than the first run cold off the trailer, so This is promising for 12's soon

One More TNT session Here (weather Pending) before Maryland

Pic Of timeslip - It's weird to see a "perfect" reaction time on the scoreboard ('cause it only displays thousandths) with a red bulb


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg,

I have been finally following your thread with regularity since the banquet.

I have gotta say that this is one of the best threads I have seen following a car project. The pics and detail of what you have done so far are excellent! As you have progressed through the build, your notes and information have certainly allowed me to learn a lot of "stuff" vicariously (right word?) through your project. I am also sure there are others on the forum that are benefitting as well. This thread is really a perfect example of what this forum is all about!

I am looking forward to seeing your car run and visiting with you next weekend.

Brian

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Flyin' Brian

74 Duster, 225, rear-mounted blow through turbo at 12psi boost, street/strip car
"Sixy Beast"

Thanks for the kind words Brian;

I like pics!! what can I say.
I am glad that you appreciate it, at the same time when I post, I get alot of help from people who have done this waay longer than I have. Also these folks have been more successful at racing than myself - I would like to thank all of them who throw ideas, suggestions etc, into the mix for me to try.

Looking forward to hangin this weekend.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I am sitting here in the pits - Went out first round, but I did
Break into the 12's on a test run.

Here are the Specs:
3000' Density Altitude
60' 1.880
330' 5.358
1/8 8.23@84.82
1000' 10.745
1/4 12.883@104.81


VIDEO LINK:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0s9A50LWILQ

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Hi Greg. I have followed your fight for slimming your obese car with interest, so here is my little weight loss tips of the day:

I couldn't help noticing that you've got an awful lot of lines and wires under your car, with old-fashioned 'reinforcement' in the form of wire spun around them. Put them on the weight, and compare to simple copper-nickel brake lines you can bend yourself, and simple style hand brake wire instead of the heavy panzer cable.

Interestingly, in these times when many new relatively small cars has a surprisingly high weight, because of all safety equipment and fancy stuff, a Mazda TV commercial convey that their engineers were told to save at least one gram per part on a new model, which is not a great deal of loss at all, until you count the 3-4000 parts a modern car consists of.

So instead, aim for at least 10 grams each time you remove a part for inspection or replacement, still less than 1/2 ounce per part, but it makes a few pounds through a season!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Congrats Greg! You've got that thing flying.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.