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1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36132		 Page 25 of 87
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sat May 07, 2011 5:41 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Holesaw= FREE Hp.The next 100lbs are ALOT harder than the first 300.You are doing fantastic and it will pay off.I would love to see anouther 20lbs off the front.Start by cutting windows in the inner engine compartment.Lets air flow go tru and not build up resistance under the hood.I got big windows behind my shock towers.Guzzi mark
Thanks Mark!

Yep It's all in the Plan.

I will be making windows this summer!

Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon May 09, 2011 7:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Chop. Cut. Rebuild. 5-9-11
I got the LR Wheelhouse raduised to the wheel / Tire so Now it kinda looks like the right side.

I ended up getting 1# of metal out of the car by doing so :-)

Now at 318.5# lost since November 2010.

Pics:

Image


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Image


Greg
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue May 10, 2011 4:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Ron Parker is grinning somewhere...

Thanks Lou Madsen
Author:  USAJon [ Tue May 10, 2011 1:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Rear Suspension Done! 7-22-09
Quote:
It took about a week, but I did the Spring relocation kit etc. and Finally got the Hard lines - Fuel / Rear brake ran to the back. The 8 3/4 is in there with a 4.30 Gear a spool and a pinion suubber.

Oh yeah, I have probably removed about 20# of the factory rust proofing so far.. and that's just on 1/2 the car. It's amazing waht a propane torch and a putty knife will do to old rustproofing.


Big bolt pattern in the back now.
Image

That looks better than the 7.25 and I use stock springs a snubber and air shocks to control the launches. - Simple.
Image

Left Rear Frame rail and Spring relocation - I had to to some major structural work on this rail.. It was really weak.
Image

LR Inboard spring kit.
Image

Swap meet Pinion snubber and Brand new rear brake line.
Image
4.30 that sounds pretty rad.
what RPM through the 1/4 traps are you turnning?
also what is your rear tire diameter?
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue May 10, 2011 2:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi Jon,

It was a 4.30 - It's now a 4.56 and it's 6400 Through the traps at 103MPH.

I am trying some other shocks - The air shocks may or may not return.

Also the Rear tire is 29" tall I believe - I have to check fo' sho'.

Hopefully you will see ruster in all it's faded glory in less than 2 weeks at hagerstown!


Thanks,

Greg
Author:  USAJon [ Tue May 10, 2011 5:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
do you have frame connectors?
do you run a driveshaft loop?
do you disconect the power wire to the altneator when you race?
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue May 10, 2011 6:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
do you have frame connectors?
YEP
Quote:
do you run a driveshaft loop?
YEP
Quote:
do you disconect the power wire to the altneator when you race?
No, I could wire a switch into the Field of the alternator, but haven't tried that yet.

I like the ignition systen to have as much power to it as possible when making runs.


Greg
Author:  USAJon [ Tue May 10, 2011 7:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
do you have a trans brake?
do you run high front tire air pressure..?

runs only last 12 seconds?
old school Dragracing would actually un plug the altnerator here.

http://www.physicsforums.com/archive/in ... 22378.html
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Wed May 11, 2011 5:58 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
do you have a trans brake?
No transbrake - Footbrake only
Quote:
do you run high front tire air pressure..?
Yes It has workd for me so far - Less rolling resistance



Maybe I will try some sort of micro switch on WOT that activates a relay to turn off the field when I floor it.

Again, All in the works, but Havent tried it.

I think It would be better to just get rid of the alternator all togther, but I dont lug a battery charger and generator around with me to the races too much yet.

Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Fri May 13, 2011 8:15 pm ]
Post subject:  TNT and Rain 5-12-11
To answer an Eariler Question, I have 27X10.5-15 Rear Slicks,

NOT 29" tall slicks,

Thursday Wnet to TNT, Guys at the track said Altitude air was 2800'

Only made one Run, and Was called up & sitting in Lanes for run #2 before some kinda oildown stopped things for a bit, then Race control sent us back to the trailers then it poured :-(

Anyway I got a raincheck on that to use for another time and I ran a 13.18@103.16

Typically Runs 2, 3 go faster than the first run cold off the trailer, so This is promising for 12's soon :)

One More TNT session Here (weather Pending) before Maryland

Pic Of timeslip - It's weird to see a "perfect" reaction time on the scoreboard ('cause it only displays thousandths) with a red bulb :shock:
Image

Greg
Author:  bmimken [ Sat May 14, 2011 12:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
Greg,

I have been finally following your thread with regularity since the banquet. :wink:

I have gotta say that this is one of the best threads I have seen following a car project. The pics and detail of what you have done so far are excellent! As you have progressed through the build, your notes and information have certainly allowed me to learn a lot of "stuff" vicariously (right word?) through your project. I am also sure there are others on the forum that are benefitting as well. This thread is really a perfect example of what this forum is all about! :)

I am looking forward to seeing your car run and visiting with you next weekend. :twisted:

Brian
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sat May 14, 2011 6:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the kind words Brian;

I like pics!! what can I say.
I am glad that you appreciate it, at the same time when I post, I get alot of help from people who have done this waay longer than I have. Also these folks have been more successful at racing than myself - I would like to thank all of them who throw ideas, suggestions etc, into the mix for me to try.

Looking forward to hangin this weekend.

Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sat May 21, 2011 12:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Mason-Dixon Racin 5-21-11
I am sitting here in the pits - Went out first round, but I did
Break into the 12's on a test run.

Here are the Specs:
3000' Density Altitude
60' 1.880
330' 5.358
1/8 8.23@84.82
1000' 10.745
1/4 12.883@104.81


VIDEO LINK:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0s9A50LWILQ

Greg
Author:  olafla [ Sat May 21, 2011 4:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi Greg. I have followed your fight for slimming your obese car with interest, so here is my little weight loss tips of the day:

I couldn't help noticing that you've got an awful lot of lines and wires under your car, with old-fashioned 'reinforcement' in the form of wire spun around them. Put them on the weight, and compare to simple copper-nickel brake lines you can bend yourself, and simple style hand brake wire instead of the heavy panzer cable.

Interestingly, in these times when many new relatively small cars has a surprisingly high weight, because of all safety equipment and fancy stuff, a Mazda TV commercial convey that their engineers were told to save at least one gram per part on a new model, which is not a great deal of loss at all, until you count the 3-4000 parts a modern car consists of.

So instead, aim for at least 10 grams each time you remove a part for inspection or replacement, still less than 1/2 ounce per part, but it makes a few pounds through a season!

Olaf.
Author:  slantzilla [ Sat May 21, 2011 5:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Congrats Greg! You've got that thing flying. :D
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