Slant Six Forum :: routeing the fuel line over the vavle cover

Well, I have ran fram filters for over 30 years, never had a problem. My fuel line runs where god and mother mopar intended and I never had a problem. My ballast resister has never failed. I guess I am truely blessed!

So what's wrong with Fram filters?

it's been 10 years since I inspected the guts of a Fram oil filter, so this is based on dated evidence - anyone check one out lately? Have they improved in any way?[/color]

Quote:

Or just lucky

D/W

Luck has nothing to do with maintaining older cars. What I have learned over the years is that "old wifes tales" are ususally wrong, most people do not know what they are talking about and a good repair manual is invaluable.

........ There have been several cases of Fram's corner-cutting causing severe damage to specific engine designs. Example, early 2.2 Mopar engines, Fram decided to make the oil filter element a little shorter than the original equipment filter. At high RPMs, the Fram filter's flimsy cardboard endcap, which was closer to the oil suction pipe, bowed downward and partially blocked the pipe, starving the engine for oil and often failing the engine completely......

Remove the metal line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor and throw it away. Install a 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass
fitting in the fuel pump outlet and another in the carb inlet. These
fittings can be had from any well-stocked hardware store that carries the
Dorman "orange drawers" line of springs, fittings, etc. The Dorman part number is 492-024; Everbrass number is 1791.

Between these fittings I run a length of 5/16" I.D. *fuel injection* hose (marked SAE 30R9, not the less heat-resistant old-fashioned 30R7 stuff that doesn't do well with modern gas formulations over time -- be sure to get fuel injection hose clamps, too). This line runs vertically up from the fuel pump, over the valve cover, and across to the carburetor. The fuel filter (with a metal can, the plastic ones sometimes don't do well with
oxygenated gas) gets installed vertically so it's right behind the
alternator...this keeps it away from heat and the alternator fan cools it
down further. Much better than the stock location where it gets heated up
by the exhaust manifold!

With this setup, a lot of the bitchy hot and cold start problems
disappear, because you're no longer boiling fuel in that metal line when you shut off the engine. Try it, you'll like it!

Author:	Eric W [ Sat Jan 15, 2005 9:47 pm ]
Post subject:
Ahh yes, the magic bolt box. My old man has many many old coffie cans filled with washers, nuts, bolts, screws etc all in seperate cans so the "digging" is easier. They have saved my happy a$$ many times working on my Satellite or my late Fury. Thats a nice looking engine Guy. The only difference between your set up and mine is I used a 90 degree fitting on the pump outlet and have the line zip tied to the heater hose bracket. I see you also like to put your wires in the plastic tubes. Nice and tidy.

Author:	kesteb [ Sun Jan 16, 2005 7:04 pm ]
Post subject:
Well, I have ran fram filters for over 30 years, never had a problem. My fuel line runs where god and mother mopar intended and I never had a problem. My ballast resister has never failed. I guess I am truely blessed!

Author:	Dennis Weaver [ Sun Jan 16, 2005 7:14 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Well, I have ran fram filters for over 30 years, never had a problem. My fuel line runs where god and mother mopar intended and I never had a problem. My ballast resister has never failed. I guess I am truely blessed! Or just lucky D/W

Author:	GuyLR [ Mon Jan 17, 2005 6:20 am ]
Post subject:
So what's wrong with Fram filters? Do they blow apart or something? Do they not filter out debris in the oil? Heck I've been using them since the early 70's and never had any engine oiling problems on my Slants that weren't related to anything but the ungodly number of miles on the engine before I got it. Maybe that's cause a Slant will run for hours with no oil anyway

Author:	Dennis Weaver [ Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:39 am ]
Post subject:	Ah, We Have Found the Dissenters! ;)
Quote: So what's wrong with Fram filters? With their oil filters it is overall crappy (read cheapo) construction, their lack of filtration area (fewer pleats and less overall filter media), but of particular importance to slant sixers, their very poorly engineered and constructed anti-drainback valve (the little rubber piece you see inside those little holes in the bottom). D/W * I do admit that it's been 10 years since I inspected the guts of a Fram oil filter, so this is based on dated evidence - anyone check one out lately? Have they improved in any way?

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Author:	SlantSixDan [ Mon Jan 17, 2005 10:17 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Ah, We Have Found the Dissenters! ;)
Quote: it's been 10 years since I inspected the guts of a Fram oil filter, so this is based on dated evidence - anyone check one out lately? Have they improved in any way?[/color] They've only gotten worse. See the MiniMopar oil filter study here: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html Fram made a quality product in the '60s and '70s, but that was a lot of years and many corporate owners ago. They're garbage now. There have been several cases of Fram's corner-cutting causing severe damage to specific engine designs. Example, early 2.2 Mopar engines, Fram decided to make the oil filter element a little shorter than the original equipment filter. At high RPMs, the Fram filter's flimsy cardboard endcap, which was closer to the oil suction pipe, bowed downward and partially blocked the pipe, starving the engine for oil and often failing the engine completely. Another example: Certain VW engines, the Fram filters for which were not made well enough to withstand the very high oil pressure these engines generated under certain conditions. Blam, burst filter, oil everywhere except inside the engine where it was needed. Another example: Cummins turbo diesel engines. The failure pattern was so clear-cut that Chrysler issued a TSB saying, in effect, "Don't use Fram filters". Fram issued a counter-TSB saying "Chrysler's not telling the truth, our filters are cool and excellent and fabulous and you should use them." Whom do you believe? There are some motorcycle (and possibly car?) racing classes that ban Fram filters outright -- too many have burst and oiled down the track. No thanks, not on my car. Not with so many other better options so easily available.

Author:	kesteb [ Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:33 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: Well, I have ran fram filters for over 30 years, never had a problem. My fuel line runs where god and mother mopar intended and I never had a problem. My ballast resister has never failed. I guess I am truely blessed! Or just lucky D/W Luck has nothing to do with maintaining older cars. What I have learned over the years is that "old wifes tales" are ususally wrong, most people do not know what they are talking about and a good repair manual is invaluable.

Author:	Dennis Weaver [ Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:49 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Luck has nothing to do with maintaining older cars. What I have learned over the years is that "old wifes tales" are ususally wrong, most people do not know what they are talking about and a good repair manual is invaluable. Oh, OK, glad I got straightened out on that one. My bad. D/W

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:35 pm ]
Post subject:
Yeah, Dennis, shame on you for getting that wrong. Go to your room!

Author:	Craig [ Wed Jan 19, 2005 9:28 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Ah, We Have Found the Dissenters! ;)
Quote: ........ There have been several cases of Fram's corner-cutting causing severe damage to specific engine designs. Example, early 2.2 Mopar engines, Fram decided to make the oil filter element a little shorter than the original equipment filter. At high RPMs, the Fram filter's flimsy cardboard endcap, which was closer to the oil suction pipe, bowed downward and partially blocked the pipe, starving the engine for oil and often failing the engine completely...... Ever wonder why the filter/check valve stand pipe is cut at a angle (slanted) on the top? (NO it's not because the engine is slanted) This is so if a too short filter or something coming flat down on top of the standpipe will not completely block the hole and oil flow.

Author:	speedy [ Sat Feb 19, 2005 2:40 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Here's the how-to again
Just wanted to "Pile On" with a "Thumbs Up" on the exellent "Fix". I've got a '67 S6 A100 panel van w/Holley 1920. Since owning it for the past 7 months, I've had the pleasure of enjoying the aromatic stench of "Cheap Gas" after shutting down...then the joy of hearing the "Death Cry" of a Chrysler starter as I try and refire it! And even in the cold! I figured that it was the fuel in the carb boiling, and cheap gas, and was planning on making an aluminum heatshield for under the carb in hopes it would help. After seeing this fix I replaced the fuel line, and with a new filter, did the hard return line to my tank. I have eliminated the problem! The thing re-fires right up after sitting for any period of time and there's no stench! It's like a new van............And I was thinking I would just have to "Deal" with it...... Quote: Remove the metal line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor and throw it away. Install a 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass fitting in the fuel pump outlet and another in the carb inlet. These fittings can be had from any well-stocked hardware store that carries the Dorman "orange drawers" line of springs, fittings, etc. The Dorman part number is 492-024; Everbrass number is 1791. Between these fittings I run a length of 5/16" I.D. fuel injection hose (marked SAE 30R9, not the less heat-resistant old-fashioned 30R7 stuff that doesn't do well with modern gas formulations over time -- be sure to get fuel injection hose clamps, too). This line runs vertically up from the fuel pump, over the valve cover, and across to the carburetor. The fuel filter (with a metal can, the plastic ones sometimes don't do well with oxygenated gas) gets installed vertically so it's right behind the alternator...this keeps it away from heat and the alternator fan cools it down further. Much better than the stock location where it gets heated up by the exhaust manifold! With this setup, a lot of the bitchy hot and cold start problems disappear, because you're no longer boiling fuel in that metal line when you shut off the engine. Try it, you'll like it!

Author:	jl737 [ Sat Feb 19, 2005 7:41 pm ]
Post subject:
After reading these posts, I decided to pull the fram off my slant and cut it apart. The cardboard had actually separated from the paper filter on one side! I don't know how long it's been like that but the filter has been on the engine for 2100 miles. I hope it it didn't do too much damage.

Author:	Jeb [ Sat Feb 19, 2005 7:50 pm ]
Post subject:
Has anybody tried any of that heat resistant wrap that they sell in JC whitney.

Author:	Irv83 [ Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:43 am ]
Post subject:	oil filters
From a 68 yo car nut.......former SCCA racer ('65 NE Region class champion) Ferrari uses Baldwin oil filters (yes, the orange ones) I use Baldwin oil filters. Never had one apart. Price compettitive. Irv 83 '61 Lancer hardtop 225 auto (I'm now a quadraplegic) hardtop, soon to be a "full race" motor

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