I would like to try and move my fuel line. and need to know a few things first.

1. how can i get the valve cove off when needed
2. what parts do i need
3. is the fuel line easy to bend
4. how does help out the motor

i now it helps like in what ways and could it help with my stalling?

I like to make the metal lines in 2 parts with a fuel filter connected by short rubber hose connecting the metal lines. You'll need 4 hose clamps and two short sections of rubber hose.

To remove the valve cover, just unclamp a rubber hose to separate the lines.

This setup has been used to fix problems with gas boiling in the fuel lines from contact with the motor. It might not help anything, if the origional line is correctly routed, but I haven't seen a factory fuel line for many years. Mine have all been replaced.

Fuel line is easier to bend with a tubing bender, but with a little practice, I can now bend intricate designs, over my knee or with a pair of pliers. The hard part is to not kink the tubing when bending sharp turns, so avoid sharp turns.

Metal fuel line is not made of gold. Buying an extra piece is usually cheaper than making an extra trip to the parts store. I can't remember how long or a piece I bought, but just eye the distance, and then buy longer than you need, you can always cut some off.

A tubing cutter makes nicer cuts than a hack saw, but you can get by either way on this project.

If you want to be really fancy, you can get a flaring kit, for the cut end of the tube where the fuel filter attaches.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

[quote="Slant6Ram"]I like to make the metal lines in 2 parts with a fuel filter connected by short rubber hose connecting the metal lines. You'll need 4 hose clamps and two short sections of rubber hose.
Fuel line is easier to bend with a quote]

That's what I did. I used one like it right up until I went to the electric pump.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I mock up fuel (and brake) lines first with heavy wire, like old coat-hangers, etc, to get the shape and length I want. Remember to be gentle with the bends when you can. Oh, and remember to put the appropriate hardware in place before flaring, etc.
You should be able to make one that avoids the hot spots, yet allows you to remove the valve cover without removing the fuel line.

Thanks for the help eveyone. i've seen it done in pictures and heard about people doing it . i was thinking there was some type of advantage.

Instead of hard lines, do as I did (as suggested by SlantSixDan) and run fuel injection hose. I've had the same length of hose for around 3 years and is still good as new. All you need is a 90 degee fitting on the fuel pump outlet, install the line from the pump to carburetor installing the filter behind the alternator. I used a barbed fitting at the carb with FI hose clamps. Leave enough slack in the line so that the valve cover will slide out from under the line for periodic valve jobs. Dont leave it floping around so it lays in the valve cover though. I used a zip tie to secure the line to the bracket on the side of the valve cover that the heater hose runs through. This set up eleminated my hot start problems, so yes it does help if you have issues with that.

Just one word of caution, on using rubber hose. If you are planing on racing your car, all sanctioning bodies, do not allow more then six inches of rubber hose.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Yep. Having an "over the VC" flexible fuel line setup on my Duster and wanting to pass tech, I run braided 5/16" flexible rubber fuel line (Aeroquip, I think) which meets tech standards. One common myth is that you have to have all of the expensive AN type fittings to run braided hose. Not so. I use standard hardware store brass fittings and hose barbs with regular worm gear clamps. I do wrap the cut ends (under the clamp) with a small strap of .008" stainless shim stock (but any thin metal would work) to keep the ends from fraying and lend a neat appearance.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Remove the metal line that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor and throw it away. Install a 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass
fitting in the fuel pump outlet and another in the carb inlet. These
fittings can be had from any well-stocked hardware store that carries the
Dorman "orange drawers" line of springs, fittings, etc. The Dorman part number is 492-024; Everbrass number is 1791.

Between these fittings I run a length of 5/16" I.D. *fuel injection* hose (marked SAE 30R9, not the less heat-resistant old-fashioned 30R7 stuff that doesn't do well with modern gas formulations over time -- be sure to get fuel injection hose clamps, too). This line runs vertically up from the fuel pump, over the valve cover, and across to the carburetor. The fuel filter (with a metal can, the plastic ones sometimes don't do well with
oxygenated gas) gets installed vertically so it's right behind the
alternator...this keeps it away from heat and the alternator fan cools it
down further. Much better than the stock location where it gets heated up
by the exhaust manifold!

With this setup, a lot of the bitchy hot and cold start problems
disappear, because you're no longer boiling fuel in that metal line when you shut off the engine. Try it, you'll like it!

This made me wonder... Does anyone know whether or not there is an advantage to installing the filter vertically? I racked my brain, and could think of only a few cars I own/owned that had the filter mounted other than vertically from the factory... when I re-engineer things, I often place the filter in a horizontal or near-horizontal orientation (but always away from heat as much as practical). I notice there is often a lot of vapor in the filters when set up this way (I prefer clear plastic filters because the allow me to see what's going on, contamination, etc.). I wonder now if this has any kind of adverse effect... All of my equipment tends to perform flawlessly, though. Thoughts anyone?

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Vertical-to-45°-angle filter placement with the inlet at the bottom minimizes the chance of vapor getting pushed through to the carb. '62 was the first year for factory-installed fuel filters on \6 engines, and that year they were horizontal. The following year they were reoriented to a 45° placement, and there was a TSB explaining how to fix vapor-related problems on '62s by doing likewise.

Clear plastic filters were never a good idea (though much better than glass), and with the way fuel formulations are going, now they're even worse. Make mine metal, please.

Hmmm, interesting. I'll have to keep that in mind. I was thinking all engines, not just slant sixes, but the logic applies to all.

On the filter housing material, while I normally have a plastic aversion (it's paper at the grocery and drinx in glass bottles for me), I have never had a problem with the el-cheapo clear plastic ones. Of course, I keep up periodic visual inspections of all my equipment, so I'd agree with your assesment about metal for your average citizen who never opens their hood. And glass, I can attest to having a bad experience with one of those taiwan clear glass filters they sell everywhere - the seals dried up and it fell apart whilst running, spraying gasoline all over my running motor. I am very lucky there was no conflagration

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Yeah...I do open my hoods frequently, and I still prefer the metal. I'm sure we'd hear more about it if plastic filter housings were a huge fire hazard, but with companies outsourcing everything to China and that country's notoriety for faking safety approvals, cheating on safety tests and substituting cheaper materials when the Western specifier's back is turned, it just seems less likely that there'll be a problem with metal. (Yes, I work in an international engineering company, and I see dishonest behavior from China every single week).

It's a shame about glass filters, 'cause they look so nifty. The precursor of the Holley 1920 carburetor had a glass fuel bowl! I've never seen one in operation. I'd surely like to watch the float operating and such, and I'd have to imagine it's good heatproof glass, but...!

I had one of those new metal filters fail. It leaked at the crimp seam in the middle. There was some kind of sealant in the crimp joint and it seems to have melted out. After I removed the filter I was able to spin the halves about the crimp seam. It was a FRAM brand made in some foreign country.
It was on my 1987 Dodge truck and wasn't too many years old.

Well, see, there y'go, just another example that supports my hard-and-fast rule: NO FRAM FILTERS on my vehicles.

Fram has produced mostly crap for the last 10 to 15 years.