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1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36132		 Page 37 of 85
Author:  madmax/6 [ Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
I agree with Rick.Its a dam.Dams hold things back.Not areo at all in my opinion.one of a very few things I dont like that your doing.at 200mph trying to keep frt end planted i could see it.Try it butt I think it will hurt mph and et,,,if it helps I will bee copying.Mark
Author:  Shaker223 [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 6:09 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I agree with Rick.Its a dam.Dams hold things back.Not areo at all in my opinion.one of a very few things I dont like that your doing.at 200mph trying to keep frt end planted i could see it.Try it butt I think it will hurt mph and et,,,if it helps I will bee copying.Mark
There was a test done a number years ago in one of the mag rags where one of the mods was to improve aero. They picked up MPH on a sloooow car just by blocking the grill opening with cardboard.
Author:  slantzilla [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 6:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Blocking the grille is a 50/50 thing. IF the engine compartment blocks the air in so it can't escape blocking the grille will help. If the air was free to escape, it could hurt.

As far as weight goes, the heavier the car the more you will gain for each pound you lose. Once the car is lighter it helps less, but still helps.

Greg, only thing I can tell you about the front dam is to make sure you keep it high enough with you in the car that it won't hit the starting line beams. It will cause you problems staging if it does. :D
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 6:54 am ]
Post subject: 
what is the top mph for your car? if your tipping 100mph i would put two more turn buckles on the outer edges. the spoiler looks good to me, it should move the air around the car. good luck and happy new year.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:47 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
what is the top mph for your car? if your tipping 100mph i would put two more turn buckles on the outer edges. the spoiler looks good to me, it should move the air around the car. good luck and happy new year.

Thanks Terry.. The car Topped out @ 108 MPH Last year..


I am going to stabilize the outer edges some how.. I just haven't thought it up in my head yet.


Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 8:52 pm ]
Post subject:  1-1-12Front Dam / Splitter Complete
I got the New Front Air Dam / Splitter Competed.

I added the Right Side extension on made out of old bumper covers..

I made a reinforcement for both the Far Right & Left sides of the spltter.. It is much more rigid now..

I also made 2 filler panels out of thin AL sheet to fill the gaps between the Splitter and the Front "Bumper Cover" that the splitter is attached to.

I just need to paint it flat black and fill some small holes - as these holes wer on the piece on the Production car it came off of..

Pics:

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Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Greg, only thing I can tell you about the front dam is to make sure you keep it high enough with you in the car that it won't hit the starting line beams. It will cause you problems staging if it does. :D

It seems that in the IHRA rulebook 3" of ground clearnace is required ahead of the front spindles in most classes.. I will work on keeping the airdam @ 3" high.

Greg
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:37 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:

It seems that in the IHRA rulebook 3" of ground clearnace is required ahead of the front spindles in most classes.. I will work on keeping the airdam @ 3" high.

Greg
Keep it more then 3 inches high at the starting line, and about 1 inch at the finish line. It will trip the finish beams, about a foot before the other car, and also help your et. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:33 am ]
Post subject: 
just wondering, on your 12.33et run, what do you think was the main tuning tip that help? the 6500rpm shift point, 34degs timing or cooler air? you are at the point that i was with my high comp engine,it was similar to your except .080 over bore and stock rods.i would have loved to got my hands on a 8"converter.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:18 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
just wondering, on your 12.33et run, what do you think was the main tuning tip that help? the 6500rpm shift point, 34degs timing or cooler air? you are at the point that i was with my high comp engine,it was similar to your except .080 over bore and stock rods.i would have loved to got my hands on a 8"converter.
Terry,

I believe it was the air that made the big difference!! everyone that weekend was running some great times.. THe Air Pressure was anywhere between 31.4-31.6" of Hg on my meter..

I had run that same timing back at pittsburgh and only been in the 12.60's
Everything else was the same too..


I will be trying out an 8" converter for this season along with all the Aero and lightening... We shall see.. Generally Whatever I run at pittsburgh will be somewhat slower compared to other places.


Greg
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mark,

The airdam keeps air out from under the car (less turbulence underneath). Same concept as bellypans. My '64 Dart picked up 2-4 MPG hwy with a dam. That means to me that it would run a bit faster MPH due to lower drag.

Lou
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Jan 03, 2012 1:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Keep it more then 3 inches high at the starting line, and about 1 inch at the finish line. It will trip the finish beams, about a foot before the other car, and also help your et. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

If I do that I will be Buying Some kind of trick servo to accomplish this..

when the 904 hits 3rd gear the Air dam will come down near the ground.. Sounds very Knight Riderish.. like KIT..

:twisted: Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Slow Workin Now..1-14-12
I have been Slowly working on some small stuff.


I took the rear drums off.. I am having a local Machine shop lathe down all the Extra Flanges off of them.

Each one weighed 10.5# Before cutting.
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I completed Relocating a hole on another 904-LA flexplate.. I drilled the new hole then welded up the old... this is the second one I have done this to.. The other one will work for the small stock type 5/16" converter bolts.. This one is for the 7/16" bolts.
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I also Installed a new coil... It is a MSD high Vibration coil... It will mount in the horizontal position with no problems unlike the other Blaster 2 coils which are supposed to be in the vertical position.. Now I have a spare coil(the old Baster one) to put in my box of extra junk to take to the racetrack.
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I also Filled some holes in the Airdam and painted it FLAT BLACK!
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Hopefully tomorrow I can look at getting the steering column light!
Then Pop in the new converter for the tranny!

Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Column Hack 1-15-12
I was able to Eliminate 9# of Material from the Steering Column..

Caluclated weight of Ruster is Now @ 2205.7#

I might be able to get under the 2200 mark By spring.. I am thinking brake pedal Lightening next...


Pics of today's carnage!

Stock 19# Steering Column..
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Wheel / Shaft only is 10#
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Junk I removed:
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I will be re-using the lower bearing and a bit of the stock lower column... This is easier and probably lighter than trying to use some sort of steel steering bearing from summit for the lower part of the shaft.
Notice I cut the Lower 5-6" off the original column,
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the Parts I am re-using:
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Installed Pics: (upper steering bearing is on it's way from summit...)
I will need to Fab up a new mounting point for the tach... It used to mount on top of the steering column... :D Watch out brake pedal... you're next :twisted:
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Greg
Author:  wvenable [ Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Don't take two much weight offa that thing. Add some hydraulics and plow snow!
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