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1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36132		 Page 58 of 85
Author:  NCDemon1971 [ Fri Oct 11, 2013 12:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Greg,

How many jet changes did it take to get that 750 right?
I thought about using one...
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Fri Oct 11, 2013 2:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Greg,

How many jet changes did it take to get that 750 right?
I thought about using one...

The 750 Carter was pretty Close - Either stock Jetting or one change..


The 750 Holley I coult not get to run right. I think it's too Big for the engine or I have not fiddled with it enough yet.


Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 8:06 am ]
Post subject:  Carnage 10/13/13
Well it was bound to happen..


The ole Stock type oil pump drive gear and Cam gear interface have failed.

Fortunately I lost oil pressure while idling in the line for tech.. So no massive rod or crank damage... New bearings and a crank polish and the bottom end of my engine is in business.


While I have the ruster engine apart I will do some fiddling... Mainly lightning / knife edging / smoothing the crank.. adding compression and going to 1.6 roller rockers.


Also I will add the Engine plate, And go to a crank trigger system along with a vacuum pump and an external oil pump.


Here are some pics of the Disaster:
Pistons / rings / cylinders looked great!
Image



Image

Rods were good. One bearing was shot:
Image


Heres the UGLY...
Image

This was a Doc's hardned gear... I Got 3 years of hard racing out of it!
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Image


Cam Carnage:
Image


Image


Image



Greg
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 11:51 am ]
Post subject: 
Greg,
Did your oil pump have the extra tube to spray oil right onto the gears? At least going to the external pump will allow you to reuse the cam if you want. I am glad that it didn't tear things up really bad.

Rick
Author:  bmimken [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 1:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Greg, glad it was not any worse! You have had a challenging year, but you have kept a positive outlook! I look forward to seeing Ruster at the track next year going even faster!!

Brian
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 4:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
ever since I have used doug`s positive oiling tips on the cam/oil drive gears I have no problems up to 6800rpm. also with a polish of the gear teeth to take the sharp edges of before running it. the drilled pump from the pressure side is the best compared to the tube feed line.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Sun Oct 13, 2013 4:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Greg,
Did your oil pump have the extra tube to spray oil right onto the gears? At least going to the external pump will allow you to reuse the cam if you want. I am glad that it didn't tear things up really bad.

Rick
No I did not do that mod.

I was too anixous when I did the build the first time. I probably should have done the oiling gear mod.
It was time to pull the engine apart anyway... this was a good excuse to do so.


Greg
Author:  Romeo Furio [ Mon Oct 14, 2013 6:21 am ]
Post subject: 
That's it,,Positive out look !
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Mon Nov 04, 2013 7:59 pm ]
Post subject:  11-4-13
Well I have Taken the Crank to the machine shop for Checking / Polishing / Lightening / knife edging. I did Not weigh the Crank this Time before sending it to the Shop, So I will have to check this thread and my notes to see the Before weight.

I also have Begun to lighten and cut stuff again.


I have plans to Tie the front frame rails in with 4130 Tubes so I will be able to Get rid of most if not all of the sheet metal up there from Ma Mopar. Here are some before shots with the front Clip off.
Image


Image




I have yet to weigh any of the junk that I have taken off yet, but it's a Pound or 2 .. Lots of gunk scraped from the k Frame.. and I got rid of the Trunk Gasket and other odds and ends..

I plan to Lighten the front clip as much as possible.

Here is some work on the wheel tubs.... The New Tubs will be Light Aluminum :-D- I need to do this to run the New Wheels I bought in the Summer.
Image


Image

I also Decided to attempt to Get rid of the factory package tray and Go with all aluminum sheet. Should be lighter!
Image


Image


Greg
Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Nov 04, 2013 10:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Lovin' it, Greg! You will have the lightest 2nd gen A-body on the planet soon...

I only reuse stock used pumps and regrind cams now, and no problems yet. Tilley told me the same thing recently, that he had switched to that mode.

Lou
Author:  SIX GUN [ Tue Nov 05, 2013 7:13 am ]
Post subject: 
Greg;
I remember a MoPar guy that hole-saw his K-frame and, put a rack/pinion steering on it...

Do they make a chromoly tubular K-frame???
Author:  Romeo Furio [ Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:34 am ]
Post subject: 
Check out QA1 for 67 up tube K frames
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:42 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Check out QA1 for 67 up tube K frames

Thanks Romeo! already Know about it.

But thanks for throwin it up here.


I have not seen a price or weight on them yet :-(


I can also Modify a stock one with some 4130 Tube too:-)

Greg
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:44 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Greg;
I remember a MoPar guy that hole-saw his K-frame and, put a rack/pinion steering on it...

Do they make a chromoly tubular K-frame???

Yep I might Grind a Bunch out of it this winter.
Not yet sure on the rack / Pinion Setup.


Greg
Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Nov 05, 2013 9:43 am ]
Post subject: 
Greg, unless you really, really need a lot of room for oil pan/headers I would stay away from rack and pinion. It opens up a whole can of worms for front end geometry, and most of it is bad.

Yes, you can cut a ton of weight out of a stock K-frame, and it will bolt in when you're done.
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