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1968 Valiant Ruster Racer IRWIN PA https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36132 |
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Author: | Romeo Furio [ Tue Nov 05, 2013 3:11 pm ] |
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I just thru it out there for Six Gun. Ahha to be young again !Maybe that is why my mid section is growing. |
Author: | SIX GUN [ Tue Nov 05, 2013 5:45 pm ] |
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This looks like something you can do... http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff92 ... ember5.jpg |
Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Wed Nov 06, 2013 4:58 am ] |
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Quote:
YES,YES I CAN! and Probably Lighter and Better than that one ! Just Practiced some tiggin on old scraps of 4130, No problems there! That Welding class I took last spring was the best $400 I have spent yet! Greg |
Author: | slantzilla [ Wed Nov 06, 2013 7:27 am ] |
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That looks like a Bob's Profab K-frame job. He cuts out a lot of weight. |
Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Sun Nov 10, 2013 10:10 am ] |
Post subject: | RR Wheel Tub Install and Lightening 11/10/13 |
Well Here are some more shots of the Wheel Tub progress: At Last check in this post: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... &start=825 I state that Ruster's Calculated weight was: 2158.7# After Taking cutting some stuff off for the RR Wheel Tub Install I deleted 22.9# from the car, But I added 3.3# for the Sheet Alminum Wheel Tub on the Right Side. So now Ruster Should be at 2139.1# - Inching Ever closer to 2100# Without Driver. Here are some Pics: Some More Trimming Before Installing the Wheel Tub: This kit Gets Rid of the Rear Dogleg :-0 Here is the Summit racing Wheel tub kit - Quite a Bit of room in here, Lots of trimming to fit my application. Here is all of the Steel Removed to make room for the tubs... -22.9# And here is 3.3# of aluminum Tub to replace it. Greg |
Author: | Brian [ Sun Nov 10, 2013 5:34 pm ] |
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Man you really need to get a old slingshot dragster frame and call it good. I can even come over and help you work on it. |
Author: | Dart270 [ Sun Nov 10, 2013 8:53 pm ] |
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This is much more fun to watch... Lou |
Author: | Romeo Furio [ Mon Nov 11, 2013 7:30 am ] |
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My thoughts are the same as Brian, Just get a old F.E.D. and call it a day. |
Author: | SIX GUN [ Mon Nov 11, 2013 4:48 pm ] |
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Greg; keep cutting on that car, anyone can make a dragster go... |
Author: | Dart270 [ Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:21 am ] |
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You are getting into Seymour territory there. You just need to trade (human) bodies with him and you'll be there... Lou |
Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Tue Nov 12, 2013 7:09 am ] |
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I dont think it will be the lightest 2nd gen a body ever.. It might be quite a bit heavier thanthe wire car: http://www.allpar.com/racing/missile/wire-car.html 1800# without Driver.. Who knows... Maybe someday.. Greg |
Author: | SIX GUN [ Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
That's what I need, a Titanium/Magnesium rear-end!!! http://www.allpar.com/photos/racing/wir ... m-rear.jpg |
Author: | NCDemon1971 [ Tue Nov 12, 2013 9:05 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Greg, I had asked about the 750 you are running before and you mentioned it was fairly close to stock. I have the Edelbrock 750 which I believe is the same as the AFB Competition. Stock jetting is at 113/107. Think this is to much?? Or should I play around with metering rods?? The engine should be close (hopefully) to 12:1 compression. I keep hearing it will be too much, but I have seen quite a few /6's with 750 carbs. I'm sure something else may work better but I'm not wealthy enough to play with all the options out there. Using what's laying Good job on the weight reduction! If I ever get the tube chassis car done, I am really not sure it will weigh much less than where you are now. I'm starting to question whether it's even worth it. I think I should just go for the stock bodied car build. It is less expensive to do what you are doing and a lot less headache. Thanks for the inspirational thread. |
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