It could be.. and I am not saying you are wrong.. But The carb/ Fuel System is unchanged From last year.. Anfd The AFR gauge seems to read as it did last year for full Passes High 11's to 12's WOT..

I want to reroute the Coil Power Supply as well as try HEavier Gauge wire to feed the coils +12V and also Heavier gauge wire for the Coil 12V-.... Right Now the Coils are wired into the MS Relay board and are Sometimes Popping Fuses...


The other Thought is that the Vacuum Pump / system that I had Put on the crankcase does not behave well with the ole stock slant 6 diaphragm Mechanical Fuel Pump.... Could the Vacuum somehow have an adverse effect on the Rubber in the pump itself?

If that is the case then I will have to go electric for the Fuel Pump.

I will try some of these things for the test session this or next week... We'll See.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

No real Updates.. Still Hve my Miss at High RPMs. I think I might Try a 3rd Attempt for the Hall sensor mount or reinforcing the trigger wheel somewhat..


I did find a cool Pic of the car from 1989 When my dad Sold it on his used car lot. It was sure Looking straight and Shiny then.. Too Bad it got all rusty on Pittsburgh roads



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That is a really cool photo. Yes, the salt here does a lot of damage.

Quick question, Greg...

Are those individual coils the IGN-1A coils from DIYAutoTune, or are they LS1 coils or ?? I assume they are "logic" coils that are driven directly by the MS3 outputs?

I am about to order MS3X and accessories to upgrade the 64 Dart EFI/ign.

Thanks much,
Lou

ALSO: Very hard to believe you can feed that high HP engine with the stock mechanical pump. I would also be surprised if the vac pump does not affect the fuel pump somehow.

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi Lou, Yep these are the ign-1 coils from diy. Lotsa Tail Chasing to get them setup corrctly - I might have got it now. but we'll see.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign1 ... p-394.html

The stock Fuel pump is the same as a single four barrel 318/340/360/383/440 on the Inside. and It uses less fuel than some of those engines. THe AFr's Have not changed since I started pulling a vacuum on the engine.

Additionally I have no way on knowing until I put an electric on it and test them back to back. Time to devote to the Ruster is a bit of a rarity now.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks, Greg! Looks like I'll be going with the "QuadSpark" unit and the IGN-6 coilpack on my MS3X install. Will let ya know how it goes.

Ah, you have a V8 pump with Slant 6 arm - gotcha.

Best to Melissa and the little one,
Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Its' been a While But I have been working on some mostly cosmetic Small things.

I raised the back of the Hood 3" higher about a year or two ago But the Tops of the Fenders Did Not match, So I re fabbed a new Alum. Trim Piece and Re welded the Fender tops with an angle to match the hood "rake".

While Working on the Front end I wanted to Go to A Mostly Quick Release 1/4 Turn Dzus Fastener System.

So Now the Front Clip is Held on by only 5 Bolts and the rest are 1/4 Turn fasteners. Should be abel to remove at track within 60 Seconds with two people if needed.

I Drilled out the Drivers side Door Handle to match the Passenger side one. I never got to that last winter - Has bothered me since.
I corrected other small things that were bugging me, but too insignificant to list here.

So I started it up on saturday as it was warm out ~50* F and I spun a Bearing on #4 Rod.

So A tear down is in progress - Tom At Molnar Technolgies is getting me 1 Rod to match the 6 that I bought back in 2009.

While the engine is apart for a refresh and rebuild..
Upping the Compression to 13.5:1 ( I thought it was at 12.5:1 - Actual Calculations Revealed it was 11.6:1) The Big Bore Head gasket will lower it somewhat, and I will Be using one of those again.


Head Will get Milled for Desired Compression.
I have been working on a Crank That is ground down and Knifeedged... It will be Polished and Balanced.. Hopefully It can be balanced without adding a lot of Mallory Weight. It's around 70# Now.

Possibly Throwing in the 1.6 Roller Rockers on the Re assembly..


$till $aving Dinero for A Full A&A Alum Drum and Roller Bearing Trans Parts.. That Might be for next winter.

I will Post Pics Soon.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Here are some shots of the Next crank that I had been Working on.

So When the engine Spun a Bearing this was a good time to tear into the Engine and do some upgrades that I have been planning on for a while now.

i tend to Buy 225 Cranks at Swaps as I get them cheap... sometimes just $10

So I had started on one of these Swap meet cranks. It was in the attic for a while, I pulled it out and weighed it.. About 74#... Perfect cause it was lighter than the crank what was in the Already in the ruster engine.

I wanted to Lighten it more, and Also knife edge it. I was skeered to do this myself as I dont really understand the Rotational and Balance dynamics that go on to make an engine run well. So off to a fe machine shops and no one would do it...

So I ended up Taking a few week ends and a grinding wheel, cut off wheel, die grinder, and varying grits of sanding / finishing discs to the crank.. with some guidance from Doc I did manage to grind about 4# of Iron off the crank, Knife edge the thows and counterwhights and smooth it all out.. before sending it to the machine shop..

There they Polished it, addded a 0.050"X 0.050" Groove on all the mains.. and Balanced it also.. Fourtnatley it needed no mallory Metal Slugs .. Infact he was able to balance it by doing more grinding and drilling...About 1# more was removed to balance it I was happy.

So at Last Check i Did an actual 4 corner Scale of The car's Weight..
It was 2139
The Crank coming out of the Engine was 77.0# and the one Going In is 69.4# So Ruster Should be at 2131.4#

Rotational Weight off the front is good!
I also had the head milled and Tom Molnar at Molnar Technologies Was able to source one rod to match my set of K1 Rods to replace the one that was damaged by the spun bearing.

Pics help to tell the story..
A Shiny new Molnar Rod to Replace the Damaged #4 Rod...





Old Crank Was 77.0#



It was time to Replace that one with a svelte one.






The New Svelte Crank started life as a mundane swap meet score 225 Crank.


I taped up the Bearings and Started Grinding and cutting away.

























Eventually I ended up with this...




























I Probably could have knife edged it more severely, and Ground more material away is places, but I am no structural or crankshaft engineer, so I would have no Idea when too much is too much.. I also left the big center counterweight pretty much alone except for some smoothing..

We'll see how it all comes together, and if the 1.6 Roller Rockers will work with the milled head, or if the Piston valve reliefs will work well enough.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Here are some Shots of the car... It's the first time it's been out of the garage and fully assembled since October of last year.

I did a lot of small detail things this winter But the Pics will help illustrate the larger things.

I raised the tops of the fenders maybe 2-2.5 Inches to match the Height of the hood:





To make this work I had to cut and re-weld the fenders at a differnt angle ant then make some bracing along with larger aluminum pieces to fill the gaps.






I also smoothed over the gas cap opening - before it had a bit of a dish in due to the gas cap recess... that's gone now.



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Looks good,,,,,chop front wind shield posts a couple inches at top,push posts back at top and roof down in front,better rake on windshield,better areo.Mark

Thanks Mark, Those are on the to do list, I have limited time, so I do one big change like that per winter now, and I think to do the chp well the Main hoop of the roll cage would need to be modified as well.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That new crank is badassssssss. I've been wanting to take some meat out of my dinosaur bone crank for a while now.

Kev

_________________

Heads up for Greg...
I just passed along all your contact info to Cliff Gromer at Mopar Action. Cliff saw the Ruster at Carlisle and wants to chat with you.
Send me a PM if you need Cliff's contact info.
DD

Very cool, Doc. Ruster deserves a MA feature for sure! Can't wait for that one, given their writing style and the twisted car.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Doc,
Go ahead and Send it (contact info for cliff) Over.

I did chat with him at Carlisle last year, and He took some pics and said that he might want to do a write up. I thought it would be something small with a picture of the car included with the yearly carlisle write up that they do in MA, but I never heard from Cliff and never saw any snaps of the car in the Magazine.

I was not aware that it was still on the back burner for him.

I gave Cliff all of my info ( I thought) but it wouldn't hurt to get it to him again.

Thanks again doc!

Now I just have to get Engine, front body shell and other parts onto the car and get it all together!

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack