I'd like some recommendations on what I should do when doing my engine swap. I am replacing my 34k orig mi 170 /6 with a 14k orig mi 225 /6. What things should I do to the 225 and surrounding parts at the same time? Replace motor mounts? Check "x"? Recommendations please

I'm not planning on rebuilding the 225, since it was running fine (supposedly) when it was pulled. I may add a cam to it but that's all I have planned thus far. Thanks for your advice!

MJ

Even if it only has 14k miles, if it is 20 years old, the gaskets are likely to be hard as rock.

If you are in doubt, I suggest you change the front and rear main seals and the oil pan gasket is a given. If you do the oil pump gasket as well, you can get at everything else with the engine in the car.

If you are doubtful of the workmanship of a recent rebuild, you could mic a bearing or 2, but that may be a little bit paranoid.

I mean, how often do people lie about the condition of a motor.

If the motor looks clean but not cleaned up, then you could take a chance and drop it in as-is. I might do this, but only when I plan on taking the motor back out and doing more work later anyway.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Yeah its clean but not "new" looking. I will be dropping the pan anyway since I have to swap them between engines since they are apparently different shapes. So I'll be in there. Should I change the oil pump too?

What gaskets in particular? Front/rear main seals? I've never pulled an engine or been inside one, so specifics to look for are helpful


MJ

After you put the pan back on - might be a good time to spray the motor with a nice coat of paint. Will make it look good - and also help identify the source of any leaks, should you be unlucky and get some.

Also - it's a good time to clean & spray the engine bay.

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1963 Dodge Dart, motor by Doug Dutra, Offenhauser two carb intake, Pertronix, Clifford 6x2, Flowmaster 40's, Erson RV15/295 RDP, head work. Addco anti-sway bar, urethane suspension bushings, KYB's, racing leafs, SSBC discs. Need ZDDP? Get STP.

If the engine you are going to install, is a 68 or newer, and the trans is a 67 or earlier, you will need to use the flexplate for the engine, torque converter, for the trans, and an adapter bushing in the end of the crank.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Is the motor a 14K original, or 14K on a rebuild? If original, I would change the gaskets and seals as advised earlier, that'd be about it on the motor. You're gonna have a nice clean pan. I'd wonder about those fossilized valve seals, too, but you can change them once it's in the car if not while it's out. Leave the head on.

I never, ever do an engine swap without replacing the trans front seal if it's an auto. You're right there, and that's the only way you'll get to it without pulling the engine or trans again. Know what'm sayin'?

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

It's a 14k original from a perfect '62 Savoy 4-door some clown is chopping up in New Jersey to make a "race car" with a 600hp engine of some kind or another.
He is going to have a nice, clean pan, true, but my recollection is still that the pan and pickup are different between early 170s and 225s, not between A- and B-bodies in '62. I think he needs to keep using the pan and pickup that come with the engine, not the ones off his car's 170. I could be wrong, but that's what I remember. My '62 FPC is in Denver, or I'd look it up.
Not very easily. Remember, it's a '62 Lancer. Have you ever tried to remove the valve cover from a 225 installed in a '60-'62 A-body equipped with a heater? The heater box is on the front of the firewall, and overhangs the rear of the valve cover by a good four or five inches. There's enough room to rock the cover off a 170 with the heater in place, but it's VERY difficult with a 225. New valve stem seals are an excellent idea.
Very good advice.

In a word: No.
So best be advised to replace the valve seals while out of the car, based on this information.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Here's a little recap on the engine: 62 Savoy donor car, with 14k original miles. It has been driven around on a semi regular basis, but obviously not much.



if you want to see the ebay item: 7945815487 (esp in reference to my rant about them running up the price)

Keep it coming guys!

Things to replace:

• 1. Transmission seal (I'll look this one up)
  2. Valve Seals
  3. Valve cover gasket
  4. Head gasket? NOOOOO!
  5. Motor mounts?
  6. Oil Pump gasket and o - ring
  7. Gates 20450 and the inlet fitting
  8.....

I definitely will be de-rusting and painting the engine and the engine compartment when I do this swap. I am also hopeful that once I go and pick up the engine I will see the pan is fine, etc etc. Of course I can still pull it, clean it, inspect the timing chain, etc at that time.

BTW should I just use a spray can for painting the engine? Does that last? High temperature engine paint recommendations?

Thanks!

MJ

Me, I'd leave the head gasket alone, 'specially if it had good green Anti-freeze kept in it. The oil pump gasket suggestion was a good one, too, I believe. Those tend to weep a little with age, also the oil pump O-ring.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Yeah, use a spray can. The Mopar Performance spray paint is of poor quality. Plasti-Kote is pretty good, as is VHT. And POR15's engine paint is great, but they don't (yet) offer Chrysler Red. Perhaps if people ask for it...

If you don't want to pay the big $$$ for Mopar Performance Engine Paint, I've found that Plastkote Ford (sorry) Red is just about an exact match. That can be had for cheep in any "Parts Supermarket" or possibly even Wal-mart if you're desperate.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

I used to think this too. Direct Connection/MP engine paints I've used in the past were all "watery" and took a mazzillion coats. However I was forced to pay the price and get MP for the 383 I just freshened up due to complete lack of availability of Chrysler turquoise(everywhere I looked, at least, and I assure you I looked hard). I must say I was very pleased with the quality, coverage, curing time and overall finish quality of the MP Engine Paint I most recently got. A couple of my friends have said the same thing.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

I ain't ever going to be that desperate

I'm trying to think of the brand that I always see at my local place--I know plastikote is one of them and duracote or something like that might be the other. Honestly, if I'm going to the trouble of putting 3 cans of paint on the damn thing, I'd rather pay the money for good paint that lasts vs crappy paint that flakes off in a few years and then looks like poop.

How much was the MP paint? Dare I ask

MJ

Dupli-color used to be good, but since they reformulated it ("ceramic"), it comes out way too gaudy and super-glossy looking. You also have to recoat it in one hour or wait for it to cure for about 5 days, or it will "lift"> I stick with Plasti-kote for engine paint, pretty much.

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!