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 Post subject: Parallel Manifold
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 4:24 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 6:06 pm
Posts: 97
Location: Kansas City Kansas
Car Model:
I have a two barrel manifold with the throttle bores that are parallel to the valve cover rather than the usual perpendicular. Does anyone know of a carburetor that will fit this manifold and use my old rod type linkage.
Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 5:03 pm 
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There's no off-the-shelf carb that'll interface with your rotating-rod throttle linkage, but such a conversion has been done before. Dave York of Poway, CA did it many years ago, and wrote it up for the Slant-6 News. It involved splicing the throttle shafts of the original 1bbl Carter BBS and the 2bbl BBD together and shortening the rotating rod. My collection of Slant-6 News magazines is far, far away (in another country!), or I'd scan and post the article and photos. Someone else probably has easier access to the article than I do.

Did you custom-make this manifold or is it something you bought? If the latter, what brand is it, and does it require headers, or does it have the provision for bolting to the exhaust manifold for carb heat?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 6:52 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8708
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
My homemade 2 bbl manifold, is for a 500 holly 2bbl, with the bores parrallel to the valve cover. I removed the part of the 1 bbl carb lever, that holds the plastic piece, and attached it to the 2bbl holley.

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 Post subject: 500 shot
PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 7:09 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:14 pm
Posts: 281
Location: Houston ,Tx.
Car Model: '63 Dart GT Convertible
Charrlie, pictures please. Sounds good.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
This photo shows some early carter carb 1 bbl bases with the rod type linkage bracket. At one point Holley had a bolt-on adaptor piece avaliable.

You can cut this piece off and then install it onto a different carb.
I tend to electric weld the piece onto the new carb. (faster and stronger) but you can also line-up some screw holes and bolt it down.
Note that the linkage brackets are case hardened so drilling new holes in them is not easy.
DD
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:00 pm 
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Location: North America
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Yeah, Holley still owes me $7.93 plus tax and interest on the bolt-on linkage piece I ordered from them via their Denver WD...in 1991!

Doug, what can you tell us about plenum dividers on parallel-axis 2bbl intakes?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
Doug, what can you tell us about plenum dividers on parallel-axis 2bbl intakes?
Plenum dividers work pretty good on a Slant, especially if you are using a large cfm carb.
The manifold I saw the most improvement with was the Hyper-Pak, that big open plenum / long runner manifold can cause a lot of fuel "drop-out" when you punch open the carb. with a divider, low rpm bog was eliminated.
I never saw any real improvement with dividing a plenum on the 1 bbl or Super Six 2 bbl manifolds, I think these have a lot of manifold velocity to begin with so the divider does not help much.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:50 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:07 am
Posts: 66
Location: Central California
Car Model:
Doctor Dodge:

Can you explain what the Hyper Pak plemun consists of and how to go about installing it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Quote:
Can you explain what the Hyper Pak plemun consists of and how to go about installing it?
I was lucky to have custom casted a bunch of those manifolds, I cut a slot right into the sand core which made the divider wall as part of the casting.

On aluminum manifolds where I needed to add a divider or dams after they are casted, I mill a 3/16 wide slot into the manifold where i want the divider, fit-in a piece of 3/16 thick aluminum plate so it drops down into the slot, then weld the slot closed.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 10:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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back in the 60's a guy named Nestor Penin begun to experiment with 40-40 holleys (2300 series). He custom diecasted slant six manifolds with closed, divided plenums, and the 2300 bolted parallel to the valvle cover. I'll post pix soon!. they worked great! unfortunately, his son "lost" the die for slant six, he only keeps one for 230-250 inline 6 shivvys :x :x

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 7:49 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:07 am
Posts: 66
Location: Central California
Car Model:
I picked these up on E Pay a while back, thinking I
could come up with a modification with a plenum
and water heat. I'm in the process of making a pattern
now that will incorportate water heat to make them
streetable. It will be sheetmetal because I don't weld
aluminum to good.

These manifolds are well made. The bores are 1-1/2" with
the carb base holes 2" x 3-3/4". I have no idea what syncronimus
carbs would have been used. If anyone knows what 2bbl
carb base had that spacing let me know. I might try to run
them just for kicks without heat to see what happens.

I think the plenum runners need to be about 16" long(like the
Hyper Pak intake) to get the flow I need for the torque
range of the 225. The bores need to be right at 2" but room
at the flanges/head is very limited so 1-5/8" looks about
max. I don't want to fool with sidedraft carbs for the street.
I have 3 Carter/Weber 2bblprogressive carbs I would like to
try. The second picture show the carbs I want to use with the
plenum.

So, If anyne out there has ideas or experience on making a
water heated plenum for a 6 Pak, please chime in.

Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 12:51 pm 
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Location: North America
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Nifty, I think I remember seeing those on Ebay. Djya get a good deal on 'em? It's tough to say without seeing a ruler or tape measure in the picture, but that looks like an SAE-standard carb mounting pad that should accept regular ol' BBDs.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 1:07 pm 
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Location: North America
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Quote:
back in the 60's a guy named Nestor Penin begun to experiment with 40-40 holleys (2300 series). He custom diecasted slant six manifolds with closed, divided plenums, and the 2300 bolted parallel to the valvle cover. I'll post pix soon!. they worked great! unfortunately, his son "lost" the die for slant six, he only keeps one for 230-250 inline 6 shivvys :x :x
Wow, I can't wait to see those pics. Where was this Nestor Penin working out of? Sucks that the \6 units are no longer available. It sounds like you think his son did something other than lose the dies...what're your thoughts here?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2005 3:52 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:07 am
Posts: 66
Location: Central California
Car Model:
Dan. The bore diameters are 1-1/2". The mounting holes are 3-3/4" x 2".


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 Post subject: Nestor Penin work
PostPosted: Wed Feb 09, 2005 2:27 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
Here's the long promissed pix

Image
here you can viex the "valiant" manifold (as he always called the slant six engine) on the left and the stovebolt manifold on the right
Image
here's the real deal! nice casting, huh? fine craftmanship

actually his story is very colorfull. In the 60's, when our creme of the crop racers started to work on compact cars, you wasn't able to choose a wide variety of cars. You had falcons (arghhhh) chevy II, and valiants, and some freaks used 2 or 3 AMC rambler rebranded here under the name of Torino (they claimed that pinninfarina had designed this car especially thinking in the argentinian market... get a job!) in 1972, with long steady 12 years work under the bridge, they reached out the limint of those "weak" engines... so the guys asked the car manufacturers to homologate and create some variations. Results of this was that ford, chevrolet, chrysler and AMC hired this guy Nestor Penin, who by that time had a long nice reputation that placed him on the guru-wizard side. Chevrolet came up with 2 door novas "Series 2" wich had factory installed penin intake, falcon cheapened out the penin version and launched "Falcon Sprint" and dodge did the same (cheapo) and came up with dodge polara RT (no backslash) Chevy guys where smart, since less than 10 years later, when dyno the motors became regular practice, penin intakes showed amazing HP gain over stockers... On my personal experience, I had a polara RT 2 door hardtop wich ran great out of the factory, but I decided to go for a penin intake. I can't tell you how much she improved only over placing the same carb (holley 2300 350 CFM) on his intake. Nestor died in the late 80's, and when his crew decided to sell the state where he lived and worked near 50 years, they took the casting pieces for chevy only. My dodge was picked up on the street in the mid 80's and ever since then I've been looking for a penin intake w/o any success. God I miss that intake! Penin JR offered to craft one of those outta stock aluminium intake, not iron. But I gotta say that those runners where anything but stock... so I decided to wait till the happy day I can lay hands again on one of his original intakes.
Here's the guy at an interview back in '68

Image

Sorry to kinda hijack this post :)
About water heating those, I think that the nearness of headers will do the work, prolly some crappy cold running the first 5 to 10 minutes... if you really want to waterheat those runners, I'd use steel tube to create sort of a serpentine, wrapping 3 or 4 times near each base and going straight to the other w/o cutting. I'd plug one of the heater core hoses on the front side of that serpentine and straight to heater core out of that thing (since you're already close to the firewall)

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Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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