This question was posed to me via email:
Well, if it were me, I'd replace all the seals that are difficult to deal with when in the car while the trans is handily out on the ground. Definitely the front seal (behind the converter), the selector shaft seal (if linkage type, the cable housing o-ring if '65-back), and the throttle shaft seal. You might also want to consider replacing the neutral safety switch seal, the dipstick tube o-ring, the speedometer cable inner seal (and outer o-ring) and the output shaft seal.

The throttle shaft/selector lever shaft (if so equipped) seals are the biggest bitch to deal with in the car, and the front pump seal is impossible without seperating the engine/trans, so I insist that you replace that one!

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

so if John Doe were doing this in a 62 with a 3-speed push button trans, that all applies. Damn that's a lot of seals! Is it better to build a rebuild kit or something? I'm glad JD asked the question, cause I was wondering the same thing!

MJ

Like I told John, the biggies are the front seal and in your case, the throttle shaft seal. All of the others are fairly easy to replace from under the car or whatnot if they leak objectionably. Yours has a cable shift, so disregard the selector shaft seal part. There is an o-ring on the cable housing where it goes in the trans. Still, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace everything.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Ok, a few questions on my pushbutton:

1--Where should I get these seals?

I'd also noticed that when I pulled the trans apart the exterior filter was gone, so I am assuming they went for the internal filter setup. However, not wanting to trust that to fate (the square panel on the bottom is reattached with RTV) I'd like to get that p/n for that as well.

2--Both of the cables have been cut on the transmission when they removed it from the car. Is that going to be a problem switching my cables over from y current trans? Any issues I need to be aware of?

3--Any other words of wisdom? I have hauled the transmission back ot my house so I have the luxury of rebuilding it from home (close to my trusty computer for fast /6.org access) ! What a concept.

Thanks in advance

MJ

You can probably get these seals without *too* much difficulty at your local NAPA jobber. But if you're after a seal kit, you may want to send your $ to a business that specifically makes an effort to cater to the needs of old Mopar automatics (the below is just a text dump from another thread):

Pat Blais <tflitepatty@verizon.net>

I have the 2-port filter extensions available separately, or the complete stamped-steel deep-pan packages for either the 727 or 904 Torqueflite. If you need the extension only, I'd need a measurement from the pan rail (where it mates to the Torqueflite case) to the bottom of the sump on the inside. We allow &frac18;" to ¼" clearance for adequate Dacron filter suction. If it's a standard dimension the cost is $33.00 with both O-rings and 3 screws; if a custom dimension under 1" thick, cost is $39.00. We can also manufacture thicker extensions if necessary. The 2-hole filters are an item we stock also if you have difficulty locating them.

Thanks; let me know if I can be of further assistance with parts or
information.

Pat


Pat Blais
Pat Blais Transmissions
Seattle
Specializing in 1960-1965 727 & 904 Torqueflites (1966+ also)

first things first:

A904=automatic? 727=manual?

Currently the transmission has one of the extensions in place. I dont have a picture handy but I will take one. Its probably rigged but...

Also not sure if all the transmission tubing made it through the pull/transport process so I might need to do some replacing there as well.

So would you suggest and entire seal kit? After looking at the exploded diagrams in the FSM I believe my head also exploded. I'm a bit leary of getting this thing to far apart and messing it up without a real mopar trans friend in town to save the day!

Please advise what you think the best options would be. I had planned on only replacing the seals Dennis referred to, but upon seeing the mucked up bottom section and hearing you description of the internal filter setup, I thought it would really be wise to do that part as well and do it right.

MJ

A904 = Small automatic
A727 = Large automatic

You have an A904.

A "seal kit" and a "filter kit" (if not included w/seal kit) for your 1962 A904 would be an inexpensive and wise thing to get. That way you get the seals you KNOW you need, and you have the rest of them on hand for when you need 'em (or if you find unexpected leaks while replacing the seals you set out to replace).

Drain fluid from pan *and* from torque converter, remove internal filter screen and replace with 2-hole filter, adjust bands (easy, just follow FSM directions) and button it up.

Hmm, I'm a little slow today.

I assumed if I ordered a seal & filter kit it would come with an external filter (which has been removed) and not the correct internal one that became avail in 64. I know you said in another post that there is a very specific internal filter kit that will work. Am I remembering wrong? I just want to make sure I get the right stuff so to speak

MJ

Naw, the external filter is NLA, NS1, gone, can't be had. None of the kits come with it. The filter kit info I sent you was for '64-'65 (you should use) vs. '66-up (you shouldn't use), for if you buy locally. If you need qualified help on what you should get, send Pat an e-mail and ask.

...what Dan said.

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

Solidarity of opinion! I like it. Now, will I be putting 30wt motor oil in...ah schucks!

they sell the seals at the Paddock for $35

_________________
70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

I just wanted to chime in and vouch for the vendor that Dan recommended.

Pat Blais <tflitepatty@verizon.net>

I haven't actually purchased anything from Pat so I can't vouch for product, but the service is outstanding. I was looking for a replacement park lock cable to go to my pushbutton 904 and Pat gave me tips on saving my existing one. Pat also suggested other areas that might be the potential source of the leak. Sort of talking me down off the ledge of money.

Like I said, I can’t vouch for the product because Pat helped me out without me needing to spend anything. Anytime a vendor listens to my problem, points me in the right direction, and ends up not making an easy sale because I didn’t need the part I had already convinced myself I needed, that vendor has my trust. And future support.

Thanks Pat, and Thanks Dan for the recommendation.

John

Pat has supplied a wealth of info to us, and he's earned my business. Its all good!

MJ