I know this topic has been covere amy times.....But,

I have a 73-76 A Body front disk setup that I am planning on using for a disk upgrade on my 63 Valiant. I have read other posts on removing the ball joint and they all say to get the socket and a pipe extension, put it in the bench vise and wrench away. This of course is if you didn’t remove it while it was in the car. Which I didn’t.

Before I crack this loose, should I separate the ball joint from the spindle first? This may sound stupid, but after looking at it, it the spindle spins freely with the ball joint. I’m wondering what I need to do to lock it in place so that when I am removing the ball joint form the control arm, I am also unscrewing the threads from the spindle. Am I over thinking this one?

Also, what is the best way to position the control arm in the vice?

John

I'm not sure if I understand your question.
There are no threads in the spindle for the ball joint stud. The stud is tapered and fits into a tapered hole in upper end of spindle. The stud is pushed out or knocked out with a sharp blow, or a combination of both working together.

I saw a diagram and read some posts that indicated that they were threaded. I don't have the service manual for this era car yet so I haven’t read the removal procedure. I know the earlier ones were pressed in.

I guess I’m asking if they are threaded or pressed in at the spindle. I know that they are threaded into the control arm. These would be the ball joints from a 75 Dart.

John

Ball joint stud to knuckle = pressed in. The ball joint stud is taperd, and when you torque the nut down it presses the kuncle onto the stud. If you look at a picture of the balljoint from an online parts store you'll notice the threads don't go all the way up the stud.

To seperate the knuckle from the stud, you undo nut on the stud, then use either a pickle fork or a puller.

I used a pickle fork and a 5lb sledge.. tap it until it gets a good "bite", then give it a good wack or two and they seperated easily.

I usually skip the pickle fork and just whack the spindle casting around the ball joint taper. This momentarily distorts the spindle enough to let the ball joint drop out. I big hit is better than a thousand little ones....

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I've tried that Sandy with no luck. A small tie rod end puller works well you just have to keep a nut at the end of the shaft so you don't bugger up the threads. Once you get the puller on square a few turns and pop goes the weasel.

Here are pics of the tie rod end pullers I used to get the 70
disc I bought apart:
I took the upper BJ apart
http://members.cox.net/relic-lover/pop_upper.JPG

Then the lower BJ (note my favorite rod puller did not fit - used the jcwhitney special)
http://members.cox.net/relic-lover/pop_lower.JPG

Then I took out the caliper bolts and finally the BJ bolts
http://members.cox.net/relic-lover/bolts2spindle.JPG

Hope these are similar enough to the 73-76 to be of help.

This makes sense now. I had looked at the diagram at the parts store and noticed the threads. I didn’t look at the parts again until after I had the ball joint socket. I’ll look for a tie rod puller and if I don’t find one, or they are incredibly expensive, I’ll use the pickle fork method.

Thanks,

John