I'm having major problems getting my manifolds back on. It's a super six set-up, and has been on the engine for over a year. I took it off to have the exhaust pipe flange area smoothed up, and while the machine shop did that, they evened up where both intakes bolt to the head, too. The manifolds have never been taken apart as far as I know.

The head has been rebuilt and they put in studs to mount the manifold on. I used to have studs and bolts. This hasn't been a problem in the past, though.

Now I can't get the exhaust manifold over the studs at each far end of the head. I can get the center and one, or the center and other, but not both.

I've tried taking out the stud on one end and getting it mounted that way, but the hole is still low compared to the manifold.

It was a short trip, but I'm at my wit's end.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

Daddio,
That's pretty much why I had to look for another manifold. I pulled a manifold off a Volare that had the rear stud missing. Later, I found out why. The front and center holes would mount up to my head, but the rear one was about half a hole off. Manifold was warped.

That doesn't explain how yours did fit and now it doesn't.
What are the chances the previous owner intentionally bent the studs so a slightly warped manifold would fit? Or, are you the previous owner?? Did you originally install the manifold without problems?

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

I was the one who super-sixed it, and it fit all right. The same shop that did the head work and installed the studs planed the surfaces of the intakes.

I'm at a real loss.

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

This sounds like a warped exhaust manifold.
If it is off a small amount then there is a chance that you can take the two manifolds apart, re-align the pair by grinding / filing on the heat riser gasket surface. Material would have to come off the front edge of the heat box so the rear intake port moves upward and the rear exhaust port moves down. The trouble with this operation is tha the othe side moves out of alignment so you have tho "split the difference" to make it work.

A better choice is to find a different factory exhaust manifold or cut the front leg off the one you have and turn it into a "Dutra Dual" set-up.
DD

The manifolds are now mounted. I took it back to the machine shop and the guy told me that he had tightened up the bolt that holds the two manifolds together a lot in order to get them planed.

All I had to do was loosen up the connection between the manifolds, slip them over the studs, and then tighten everything back up. It seems fine, but I haven't started it yet. I don't know if having to loosen up the connection between the two would signify warpage or not.

Maybe a Dutra-dual eventually, but I've just thrown a lot of money into the truck and just don't have the cash.

Is this a common trick in order to get the manifolds mounted back up? Sure worked nice for me.


Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

I re-did my manifolds on my '70 Dart about a month and a half ago and recall reading that it's essential to have the inter-manifold bolts *Installed, but finger-tightened only* I did just that and everything worked out just right (Except getting the bolt under the choke pocket in. What a nightmare!). I think since the manifolds are so long, you need to have them loose to guarantee proper alignment.

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1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!

The proper procedure is to leave loose the three bolts that attach the two manifolds together. Be sure to use the metal gasket between the manifolds. Mount the assembly to the head and torque down all the mounting nuts to 10 ft/lbs. Then tighten the three manifold bolts, last.

Having said that, I will admit that my son Aaron and I did that two times and still had leaks around the intake runners at the head. We even torqued them to 15 ft/lbs. The manifolds had also been resurfaced while mocked up together. Sunday, we finally removed everything and ran a small bead of high-temp. RTV sealant around the gasket to hopefully take care of the leaks. Won't know until this weekend if that did the trick.

Good luck,
Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

I hope you meant "nut" and not "bolt". There should be a manifold stud under the choke pocket, which is difficult to get the "triangle" washer and nut on.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

No, mine had a bolt in that location when I disassembled it. I guess I didn't know better to replace it. Is this a problem? I really don't want to re-do my manifolds. The triangle washer is still there, but it has a bolt going through it instead of a stud. Any thoughts?

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1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!