All right! Got it out, and got the new one ready. What is the recommended grease to use on the Torsion Bar?
I was getting ready to smear White Lithium all over stuff, but thought the guru's out there might have a reason for EP2 or something equally nifty.
What do you think?

CJ

Oh...PS...What do the numbers mean on the ends of the bars?

Sorry, that was me...

#'s on end of torsion bars signify the last 3 digits of the part number, at least for the MP bars.

Remember left and right are different, make sure you put the ones marked L on the drivers side.

I just used some red synthetic chassis lube I had hanging around. Think it was redline brand, not sure. I don't think grease type is critical here as logn as it displaces moisture, because these aren't wear points like a ball joint would be - no friction.

Cool. Did the Left Right thing. It was a bear getting the bars out.
I'll just load the seal up with white lithium.

Thank You!

CJ

So what do the number's 891 signify?
The bars I took off have 890 on them. They are not noticably different.
I thought the /6 bars were lighter.

CJ

Did it again! Darn it. Gotta sign in...Gotta sign in...

CJ

Last 3 numbers, on the left side anyway, are 333.

The car is back on the ground. A bit low, but I was too pooped to continue tweaking on it.
Maybe tomorrow evening, I'll dial it in. The Upper Control Arm seals are torn. Did a little inspect while I was down there. Looks like I have a tad of top to bottom rattle in the front right. Beariing or something worse. Ran out of light.
Time to tear the front end down and rebuild it, methinks.
I've seen a few full front end rebuild kits out there. Anyone have any experience with the kits?

Thank you to everybody!

CJ

CJ,

One bar should have an even number, 890, and the other one should be 891. If both bars read 890, then you had 2 driver side bars.... which I don't think is even possible to install that way because they are clocked differently.

Stock slants I believe came with 2 different bars, one for with and one for without AC, but don't quote me on that. I'm not sure about part#'s, but my original bars were 0.830" and the MP ones I installed were 0.890" ones. It may be hard to see the difference just looking at it but if you put a mic to them you'll deffinately measure the difference.

Here's all the number/bars:

http://www.bigblockdart.com/tech/torshion.shtml

_________________
"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

OK. I'm getting confused. The two bars I pulled out were 890's. They had "L" and "R" on The respective sides. They also had some 400-something numbers on them. One was even, the other odd.

The Bars that I put in were 891's with a "L" Side, and a "R" side. They had 300-something numbers on them. (Left was 333)

From the table, the 890's were 130#/inch bars. The 891's aren't identified, but can't be radically higher #/inch.

The 890's are .890" ?

The first number was the diameter, right?

It looks like I went to a whole lot of trouble for little gain. Or did I?

We live and learn, sometimes!

CJ

As long as they have an L and an R on them I think you should be fine in that respect. AFAIK left and right had different part numbers, left being the even # and right being the odd, but looks like I was wrong.

Scrape off the crud, get a caliper, and measure them. That is the sure fire bet - seemes different manufacts. use different numbering schemes and thats where the confusion lies.

Were your bars originals you got off another car, or aftermarket ones? What brand?

Pretty sure they were original. They only shipped a couple different bars in 74. From what I'm gleaning from all this is Plymouth installed 890's and 891's after something like 1973.
Both were used with the /6 . The 318 cars used the 891's. This may or may not be true. Kind-of hard getting a solid answer.
My car is a non-AC car. so came with the 890's. Be interesting to find out what the Torsion Rate is for the 891. The 890's are 130#/inch.
I will try them out, and if they don't work out, try to find a set of 900's. I get a wee bit more roll than I like right now.
I'll take the calipers to my sway bar tonight, and see what we have up there.

Both sets of Bars have Mopar logos. I'll bet DusterIdiot can clear this all up. He snagged the 891's for me.

CJ

Awww, come on guys, 890 and 891 are an even and odd number. The even/odd last digit denots which side of the car the bars go on.

(even ending number is right side--odd is left side---ex. 2535888 is right, 2535889 is left) according to the link in post above to bigblockdart.

CJ, do you have calipers you can just measure the bars with? That way you can avoid the part # confusion and compare it with the chart on the link posted to get actual spring rate.

And remember, torsion bars are wear items, used ones after 4 decades will not work like new ones.

OK. Finally got it. I'm a bit thick sometimes. Scraped all the crud off the ends and:

Looks like I took a set of 890/891's off and installed another set of 890/891 bars.
At least they're on the correct sides!
The old and new bars measure 0.855" (Roughly.) So subtract the powder coat for .850", these are the 110# bars, ..right?

What I need is a new set of .92" bars for street performance handling.
The table says 150#/inch. I'd think this would stiffen it up noticeably.

Year One lists them for $225/Set. Actually sounds pretty reasonable.

Thanks for the input. And feel free to make any recommendations... Every little bit helps.
Learn learn learn

CJ