how do I know if my master cylinder is clogged? what symptoms would i see? recently i was in a parking lot, and i was tapping my brakes a bit and heard a squishing sound assumingly coming from the master cylinder because that sounded like the most likely spot.

I've never seen a clogged one leaky, frozen, and full of bad brake fluid but never clogged. How does it stop? Is it manual or power brakes? Front drums or disc? What kind of car? Will it make the noise stationary engine off? Have you had someone push the pedal while you listen under the hood and under the dash? Have you recently had any brake work done. A leak or air bubble can cause some noise so can a power brake booster. I would expect a squishing to come from the rubber boot on the back of the MC. Good Luck

its manual on 73' scamp front discs, rear drums. i replaced just the discs recently. the brake pedel when pressed squeaks loud, and i usually need to double tap when stoping because first press not much pressure. When i did the disc brake job, i only bled the the front two, do i need to bleed all four, even if i didnt touch all four?!

A squeek is prolly just the pivot bolt on the brake pedal. The bolt has a o ring on its shoulder to prevent it from making noise. Yours is prolly just gone/shrunken/dry. Remove the pivot bolt 11/16 and 5/8 wrenches and put a very small amount of anti sieze on the oring but none on the threads it is supposed to be a self locking nut. If the brakes are better on the second push of the pedal you have air somewhere in the system. When you say you replaced the disc what parts? The calipers? Master Cylinder? Hoses? If you didn't open the rear hydraulic system you shouldn't have to bleed it, but if you replaced the MC you have to bench bleed the MC and bleed the entire system. good luck

only thing i did was removed the calipers to replace the pads. ive already bled the two fronts like 2 or 3 times since then though......and its still doing it.

If you hold the pedal down does it slowly sink to the floor? Has the MC ever been ran out of fluid? If you didn't open any hyd. fittings when removing the calipers you shouldn't have gotten air from that. What method are you using to bleed it. And this is a really stupid question, but the bleeder screw is at the top of the caliper right? Are the rear drums adjusted properly it won't cause a weak pedal but it will cause pedal travel. Good Luck

exojjl I searched your name wondering how your post total got so high so fast and you had problems previously with bleeding the system. Is the car the exact same as when you changed the caliper

have you adjusted the rear brakes lately? if the rears are out of adjustment it could cause the pedal to be low. how does the pedal feel on the first push? good and hard but low? or squishy and low? hard and low is brake adjustment, squishy is air in the system.

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

theyre still the same calipers. just removed one or both (cant remember) when i changed the discs. I bleed them with me and my dad. Is it even possible to put the calipers back on upside down?!?!?!

damnit, i get both sometimes, but mostly squishy. I dont get it, ive bleed them several times since removing the calipers. I have not adjusted the drums yet though. Im guessing i might need to start from there?!?!

make sure the bleeders are on the top of the caliper. i think they can be put on the wrong side, but i'm not sure.

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!

yes, of course they are.