So i'm on the phone with clifford and they are telling me that if I run this super six intake I have with their headers the carb will freeze up and not run right. They say I should water heat the intake but i've seen others run those headers with 4bbls and what not and not complained. I live in southern AZ cold really isnt a problem untill jan-feb time.

I don't think you will have any problem without the intake heat. The intake does get some heat by way of convection from the headers, too.

Hey thanks new to the board and all, but thats what i said call me crazy but i think they real wanted me to buy thier intake setup
Im hoping to get some things found for my 74 scamp and learn from everyone about tunning and hot rodding my /6.

They probably were trying to upsell you. In Southern Arizona, intake manifold heat is not as necessary as it is in colder climes, but you will still lose gas mileage and cold-engine driveability without it. You should get Dutra Duals instead of headers, especially instead of Clifford headers.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

From about 1985 or so to 1991 I ran a non-heated Clifford 4 barrel intake with a 500CFM Carter Carb with Clifford headers on my daily driver 65 Dart GT convert slant 6. Two pumps of the gas and she fired right up, ran smooth, let it idle for a minute or two and drive away. This was in the dead of winter where it averages mid 30s in the wintertime here in northern VA (close to DC).

And how was your fuel economy? A multitude of sins can be covered with extra fuel. That's why the cars of the 1970s ran poorly; emission regulation meant that just dumping in more fuel was no longer an acceptable way of attaining good driveability.

I've posted before about a Holley 1920 I once had on my '65 that exhibited strange behavior: The engine ran very well and had fine power, but was suspiciously easy to start and drive from cold (zero choke required, just hop in, turn the key and drive off without any stalling or gasping...even with the choke disconnected!) and the car was getting under 10 mpg. Turned out the brass seat ring that retains the power valve check ball, had fallen out of the metering block. Result was that the power valve was always WIDE open. I put the metering valve back together and restaked the seat ring, and things went back to normal (20mpg, choke and careful cold driving required).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I added carb heat by simply making a "U" out of 1/2" copper tubing, plumbing it into one of the heatercore hoses, and attaching it to the bottom of my clifford 4-bbl intake. I also wired up the choke stove to the clifford split headders for heated air into the carb. now that winter is here I am getting 16mpg around town and I got 18mpg on a 200 mile trip a couple of weeks ago. I am in desparate need of an alignment and had a tire with only 25psi for the second half of the trip. Not bad milage for the gearing(3.23's) and the tire/alignment problems during the winter.

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And how was your fuel economy? A multitude of sins can be covered with extra fuel. That's why the cars of the 1970s ran poorly; emission regulation meant that just dumping in more fuel was no longer an acceptable way of attaining good driveability.

It wasn't terribly bad IIRC - around 16 or so, around 18-19 in the summertime as long as I kept my foot out of it, and somewhat more on the highway on long trips (something like 21/22 from VA to the Nats in OH in 86 or 87