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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 8:35 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
This is the

ISKY Part No. 152116
Grind VA-160

Cam Lift - 298
Valve Lift - 448
Dur - 264
050 Dur - 228
Lobe Center - 109
Valve Lash Hot - .018

Anyone use this or have thoughts on what it might do in my A108 van?
I am putting a 727 behind it.

Thanks
Dan


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 11:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16846
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
You will need at least 8.5:1 comp, 9:1 better (stock is usually <8.0 even though rated at 8.4). It may be alright with degreeing the cam and advancing 4 deg over their recommended specs. Most likely, you would want a 2200-2600 stall torque converter though (9.5 or 10" unit).

Lou

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:40 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:06 am
Posts: 17
Location: Westland, Michigan
Car Model:
I'm currently using the same cam with a few extra modifications to get the most out of my slant. I contacted Jim Cox of Cox Bros. in Ohio to get his opinion on what else would be needed to compliment this Isky cam. First thing he said was to increase compression ratio, then a higher stall torque converter. The car really pulls around the 2800-3000rpm range and keeps going till I let up on it at around 6000RPM. I selected this cam as a result of reading the many, and I mean many, postings about cams on this sight.

Not knowing what you currently have as far as induction, head work, gearing,etc. makes it difficult to predict an outcome. You may want to contact Jim Cox and tell him what you are trying to achieve or at least fill in the blanks. He is Extremely helpful and knowledgeable with slant sixes. This is what Jim recommended to me and did to make my slant that makes it pretty potent and a lot of fun to drive:
I added a Offenhauser 4bbl intake , a 500 edelbrock carb. and the reciprocating parts balanced. Jim ported and polished the head, milled the head for a 10.5 to 1 Comp. ratio, added 1.75 int. & 1.5 exh. valves in the head and added roller rocker arms to the valve train. The list goes on.

I agree with Lou about the torque converter. To get the car moving fast I needed a new torque converter. I contacted Peter at Continental Torque Converters in California and gave them the engine specs. and told them that I wanted hard launches to make up for the cams lack of low end grunt. They came up with a 10" 2600RPM converter for my 904 transmission. I can smoke the tires with the 3.91 sure grip gears.

I myself like the cam. Is it better than a Crane? I don't know, never had a Crane. Should you go with a 268 or 252 duration depends on what you you are trying to achieve and the components that you will be using with the cam.
Also try looking in the search for cams, torque converters, valves, etc. to see what others are using and if they would change what they are using.

Hope this helps!!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 3:48 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:06 am
Posts: 17
Location: Westland, Michigan
Car Model:
I failed to mention that I use a 6 into 1 exhaust header with a 3" pipe. This made a noticeable increase in power.

Bill


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 9:12 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:29 am
Posts: 499
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere
Car Model:
Thanks!
I had the head shaved .090 - but didn't put larger valves in DANGIT!
I ported and polished the head myself. Hope it works!
Pistons are .060's
New crank, etc. block decked a little to straighten.
Two barrel intake with a 500cfm Holley
Plain jane exhaust into a 2.25" single pipe
Rebuilt 727 automatic with shift kit
New drive shaft
Rear end completely rebuilt with 3.55's

Does this help you get a better idea?
It's all in my A108 van.

Thanks,
Dan


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 12:03 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 7:06 am
Posts: 17
Location: Westland, Michigan
Car Model:
Just get a higher stall torque converter to get better off the line acceleration and you'll be good to go.


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