What can you do if you remove the A-arms from a 63 A-body and find that the K-member has damage to some mounting/bearing surface?
I guess I'm concerned with the mount for the LCA.

I'm still figuring how I am going to do this.
This will be a one-man operation in a carport.
This is my daily driver.
I am not planning on removing the K-member for reinforcing welds.
I guess I'll get upper and lower control arms from 73-76 car so I can have them ready b4 I take front end apart.

If the K-frame is too damaged to use, does this escalate to pulling the engine, removing the K-frame, etc?

I will have to rent a car/truck to transport the K-frame and make trips to the machine shop, but chances of finding another early 60s K-frame are pretty slim (I don't think I've seen a 60s A-body at a wrecking yard since moving to Washington).

All American in Vancouver and Wildcat in Sandy, OR both have numerous A-bodies and K members are interchangeable up through about 67. It should not be difficult to find. In fact, there are probably several folks on this board that have a spare or two. Shipping could be an issue but not an insurmountable one.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I've found the best way for your situation is get some spares ie-- upper/lower arms -- put the new bushing in them & then swap the parts-- won't have much down time .

Start spraying your bolts with a rust penetrant now--- upper control bolts can be a bear sometimes-- good luck

Just about all '62 and up A-body LCA's are interchangable, except for their sway bar mounting tabs. You don't need a set of '73-'76 lower control arms to do a disc brake conversion. I used my stock '66 LCA's.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

VDART is right.On my wifes 63 Dart,I had another set of upper and lower control arms and brake assemblys(changed to K-H disc brakes) and the tie rod ends.Every thing was painted and detailed and the swap took six hours and a string and level alignment took another hour(aligned just enough to get it to the alingment rack-and really wasnt out to much).
HyperValiant

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1960 Hyper-Pac Valiant(rolling test-bed)
1963 Valiant V2OO(Son's summer project,- he just turned 15 )
1972 Valiant 4dr(Daughter Kelly's repair in progress)
1974 Valiant (v8) daughter Kelly's work in progress

Signet, I'm a little confused on what "bearing" is worn on your lower control arm. Are we talking about the torsion bar bushing?

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Is there wear between the LCA's pivot pin and the K-frame?

I have some extra K-Frames if needed.
DD

Hopefully when I remove the parts from the donor car I will see how the LCA, K-frame and torsion bar connect.

It's too bad I will have to inspect my K-frame once I get the control arms off it, because I don't know what to look for.

There has been a lot of popping and clunking for over a year, and I anticipate some damage somewhere.

The 66 V8 K-frame is slightly different from the /6 K-frame, right?
Will it work in a 1963 /6 without modification?

If I use a 66 V8 K-frame, can I use my 63 /6 engine mount?

How do you remove/replace the pivot pin for the LCA?
Is it pressed into the lower control arm?

Signet, don't fret, all K-frames up to 1966 were identical for both the V-8 and slanter in an A-body. RICK

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

The pin is the easy part. There is a good chance the rubber is shot and the pin will just fall out. If not, it can be pressed out. The torsion bar socket has a hole in it, so you can press from there. If you don't have a press, you can burn the rubber, and the pin will just fall out. The real bi**h is the outer shell of the bushing. It must be split with a chisel. You must be carefull not to gouge up the bushing housing/socket too bad. Any gouges (just the high spots) in the socket must be cleaned up before installing the new bushing. Otherwise you will have trouble installing the bushing. The inner bushing shell must also be removed from the pin. Be prepared, for bad pins, The pin should fit tight in the bushing. I had one bad pin on mine, so I am replaceing both.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225