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63 suspension rebuild possible problems
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16460		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  sixsignet [ Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:10 pm ]
Post subject:  63 suspension rebuild possible problems
What can you do if you remove the A-arms from a 63 A-body and find that the K-member has damage to some mounting/bearing surface?
I guess I'm concerned with the mount for the LCA.

I'm still figuring how I am going to do this.
This will be a one-man operation in a carport.
This is my daily driver.
I am not planning on removing the K-member for reinforcing welds.
I guess I'll get upper and lower control arms from 73-76 car so I can have them ready b4 I take front end apart.

If the K-frame is too damaged to use, does this escalate to pulling the engine, removing the K-frame, etc?

I will have to rent a car/truck to transport the K-frame and make trips to the machine shop, but chances of finding another early 60s K-frame are pretty slim (I don't think I've seen a 60s A-body at a wrecking yard since moving to Washington).
Author:  dakight [ Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
All American in Vancouver and Wildcat in Sandy, OR both have numerous A-bodies and K members are interchangeable up through about 67. It should not be difficult to find. In fact, there are probably several folks on this board that have a spare or two. Shipping could be an issue but not an insurmountable one.
Author:  VDART [ Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:44 pm ]
Post subject:  suspension
I've found the best way for your situation is get some spares ie-- upper/lower arms -- put the new bushing in them & then swap the parts-- won't have much down time .

Start spraying your bolts with a rust penetrant now--- upper control bolts can be a bear sometimes-- good luck
Author:  Matt Cramer [ Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Just about all '62 and up A-body LCA's are interchangable, except for their sway bar mounting tabs. You don't need a set of '73-'76 lower control arms to do a disc brake conversion. I used my stock '66 LCA's.
Author:  HyperValiant [ Tue Mar 07, 2006 6:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
VDART is right.On my wifes 63 Dart,I had another set of upper and lower control arms and brake assemblys(changed to K-H disc brakes) and the tie rod ends.Every thing was painted and detailed and the swap took six hours and a string and level alignment took another hour(aligned just enough to get it to the alingment rack-and really wasnt out to much).
HyperValiant
Author:  Dago Red [ Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Front End Rebuild
:? Signet, I'm a little confused on what "bearing" is worn on your lower control arm. Are we talking about the torsion bar bushing?
Author:  sixsignet [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:42 am ]
Post subject: 
Is there wear between the LCA's pivot pin and the K-frame?
Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:39 am ]
Post subject: 
I have some extra K-Frames if needed.
DD
Image
Author:  sixsignet [ Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:38 am ]
Post subject:  my brain is caked with same road dirt on my control arms
Hopefully when I remove the parts from the donor car I will see how the LCA, K-frame and torsion bar connect.

It's too bad I will have to inspect my K-frame once I get the control arms off it, because I don't know what to look for.

There has been a lot of popping and clunking for over a year, and I anticipate some damage somewhere.

The 66 V8 K-frame is slightly different from the /6 K-frame, right?
Will it work in a 1963 /6 without modification?

If I use a 66 V8 K-frame, can I use my 63 /6 engine mount?

How do you remove/replace the pivot pin for the LCA?
Is it pressed into the lower control arm?
Author:  Dago Red [ Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Early A K-frames
:wink: Signet, don't fret, all K-frames up to 1966 were identical for both the V-8 and slanter in an A-body. RICK
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Fri Mar 31, 2006 4:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: my brain is caked with same road dirt on my control arms
Quote:

How do you remove/replace the pivot pin for the LCA?
Is it pressed into the lower control arm?
The pin is the easy part. There is a good chance the rubber is shot and the pin will just fall out. If not, it can be pressed out. The torsion bar socket has a hole in it, so you can press from there. If you don't have a press, you can burn the rubber, and the pin will just fall out. The real bi**h is the outer shell of the bushing. It must be split with a chisel. You must be carefull not to gouge up the bushing housing/socket too bad. Any gouges (just the high spots) in the socket must be cleaned up before installing the new bushing. Otherwise you will have trouble installing the bushing. The inner bushing shell must also be removed from the pin. Be prepared, for bad pins, The pin should fit tight in the bushing. I had one bad pin on mine, so I am replaceing both.
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