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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 11:10 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
Posts: 1044
Location: Maine
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Hi folks,

I had a small leak at a rear line connector in my 68 Dart (9" drums x4). My master cylinder went dry in the front section. Leak fixed, but brakes a little spongy so I decided to bleed the master cylinder with the "looped hoses" trick. That seemed to go OK, but when I hooked the lines back up I had virtually NO pedal at all!

I tried loosening the line nuts as they come into the master cylinder (loosen on the downstroke, tighten before releasing pedal) to bleed any air that may be in the top end of the lines... no help.

So now what? Bleed all 4 corners, starting at the back right? Or pull the master cylinder and bench bleed it with a dowel and looped lines?

When I replaced the master a year ago, I had no such problems; I bench-bled it and put it on, and it worked great.

Suggestions appreciated!

-Mac


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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 12:14 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13056
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I would start by bleeding the whole system. If it was all in good shape before then the ony new variable is the non-leaking rear line.


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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 12:51 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 8:17 pm
Posts: 338
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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If you're not losing any fluid, it probably means you need to bleed the whole system. No matter how careful you are, when you replace any part of a hydraulic system, you introduce a small amount of air into the lines. Speed bleeder screws are a big help in that department.

Nat

_________________
1970 four-door Dart, 225/A-904/2.45 gears. 0-60 in twenty three minutes!


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