I had to repair my Z bar in my 66 Dart. One of the bars was broken off and I welded one on from a truck Z bar. I think it may be to long as it touches my exhaust. Does anyone know the correct length of the bar that points down going to the clutch fork linkage? I am trying to route dual pipes thru this area and need all the room I can get.

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1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4

Johnny you can pretty much make this any lenth that you wish. There is a few things to consider though. You need enough travel to get the clutch to release & you dont what it to push the clutch fingers in to far. The shorter you make it removes travel from the clutch ( it want release as far ). If you get to where you have to shorten it for clearance and it want release the clutch you can change the lenth of the upper bar to compensate. The shorter you make the upper bar is going to incress clutch travel. You also need to consider that the shorter you make these bars the more effort it will take to push the clutch peddle.

I have changed the lenths of these bars for years to compensate for differnt clutch setups that was being used in the race car. My reason where to help with peddle effort on high pressure clutches & to change the quickness of the clutch operation to help for quick shifting.


Jess

If it's any help, there is one on Ebay right now, search for "Slant Six".

Thanks for the info. I looked at the e bay bar. My lower bar is not offset like that one. Is that the way the original was made?

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1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4

On your '66, the Z-bar arms should be equal length. They should be about 1/2" from the ends of the tube.

If you try to use it with anything but the stock 9 1/4" clutch, you will crack the tube and/or break the welds for the arms.

The pre '67 Z-bars bellhousing mounting bracket will not work with post '68 bellhousings and visa-versa.

Been there, done that, had the broken parts to prove it.

the Z bar is somewhat assymetric on pre 68 bellhousings.

Jess has very good points on that, and I have to pinpoint one single thing: many "racing" 340 a's had the lower side of the Z bar lenghtened to help the PP in releasing the disc in quick hi revved shifting... so check your numbers to see if there's enough travel there. If you're using B&B Pressure plate, you don't need the extra pedal assintence so you can trim the upper side of the bar a little. If you're using it with a diaphragm pressure plate, try to keep the upper side as original as possible.

Abou the geometry, it really doesn't matter how originally was as long as it works fine and doesn't rub or catch on anything....

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Well I bought the z bar off e-bay. It is the ame on top(near the pedal linkage) But completely different on the bottom(clutch) side. My next question is the effect of the clocking of the 2 bars. the bar Ive been using the bars would be at 12 oclock and 4- 4:30. The new bar they are at 12 and 6 oclock almost directly opposed to each other. What effect will changing the clocking have?

_________________
1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4

Well I bought the z bar off e-bay. It is the ame on top(near the pedal linkage) But completely different on the bottom(clutch) side. My next question is the effect of the clocking of the 2 bars. the bar Ive been using the bars would be at 12 oclock and 4- 4:30 (out towards the engine side). The new bar they are at 12 and 6 oclock almost directly opposed to each other. What effect will changing the clocking have?

_________________
1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4

I tried the new bar and it is clear that neither is going to work as is. So I will be redoing the lower bar at least on one of them.

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1966 Dart GT
4 spd. OD conversion
8 3/4 - 3.55 SG (Sold)

62 Lancer GT
B Body 8 3/4

Look at it. Look at how each peice effects the other. Take them threw there movment and see how slight changes would effect what each peice would need.


You just about have to start at the top. The lenth of the rod that goes from the clutch peddle to the Z bar will effect where the top part needs to be clocked. A good way to do this if you have nothing that will work is to just cut the bottom arm off the Z bar. Then work everything out at the top side to work with each other. Remember you want your Upper Clutch rod to move freely threw the whole in the firewall threw its whole travel. So you need the height of the Z bar to work with this, and ofcourse side to side needs to line up. Once you get this worked out then figure your lower arm lenth and placement.


Jess