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 Post subject: Lifter bore diameter?
PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:54 am 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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I am making in a groving tool. Is the bore diameter .900?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:01 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Tappets .9040 to .9045
Clearance in block .0012 to .0025


So the bore would have to be (.9045 + .0012) to (.9040 + .0025) or

.9057 to .9065

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:11 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Marion.Va
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I would like to se pics of this tool when your done.
HyperValiant

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:15 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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Groving tool is done. My machinist will grind the final tip shape on the carbide, but it should be close.
The tool is made from AL
The tip depth is adjusted with an alen set screw and then the other alen set screw keeps the tip from rotating during use.

http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images ... gTool1.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images ... gTool2.JPG
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/images ... gTool3.JPG

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:24 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Brennan, Approx. how wide does that tool cut the Grooves in the bore?


How deep into the side of the block are you planning to go too?


Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:42 pm 
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Thats a good question. I am going to leave that up to the builder. However the tool in theory could cut a path 7/32 wide and that deep. As you and I know that would be waaaaayy to deep.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 4:47 pm 
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Location: Orlando, FL
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We groved the lifter bores the other day and the tool worked great. I think I am going to let my builder keep it, he really liked it. The grove is about .025 wide and .015 deep. Once the depth was set on the tool, it took about 10 mins to grove all the bores.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
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Location: Argentina
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Quote:
We groved the lifter bores the other day and the tool worked great. I think I am going to let my builder keep it, he really liked it. The grove is about .025 wide and .015 deep. Once the depth was set on the tool, it took about 10 mins to grove all the bores.
this was done by press, hand/mallet or wich way? nice tool, BTW. How did you prevented the tool from turning on its axis and cutting a straight groove? plus, did you grooved only once per lifter? thanks for sharing your experience!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:20 pm 
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placed tool in the bore with the bit "up hill" (facing the cylinder bores) and drove it through with a hammer. One grove per lifter bore.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:11 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
placed tool in the bore with the bit "up hill" (facing the cylinder bores) and drove it through with a hammer. One grove per lifter bore.
That doesn't sound right.

I think the groove should be on the side farthest from the cylinder bores (downhill side) so that oil is carried over the cam lobe as it rotates across the lifter.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
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Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
When the grooves are put in the "up-hill" side of the lifter bore it creates a deeper pool of oil at the top of the lifters. That oil completly surrounds the top of the lifter and floods the pushrod socket.

Once the oil gets down the groove, it run around lower portion of the exposed lifter body and then drips off the "down-hill" lifter edge. The drops land right on the cam's contact face, as it moves into the lifter.
I have done the grooviing both ways and like the results of the up-hill groove a bit better. Any added groove gives way more oil to the cam / lifter contact area so any groove helps. (or a looser lifter bore that allows more oil to pass by)
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:44 pm 
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DD
What do you think of more than one grove?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:52 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Quote:
When the grooves are put in the "up-hill" side of the lifter bore it creates a deeper pool of oil at the top of the lifters. That oil completly surrounds the top of the lifter and floods the pushrod socket.

DD

I wouldn't have thought that the groove would have had any significant impact on the pool of oil compared to standoffs.....................

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
The grooves just drain the pools, the more grooves, the faster the drain-off.
If to much oil builds-up, it overflows down the hollow stand-off tubes.
DD


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