Well I took the Volare in for inspection. There is a couple of items but nothing too major I think.
Upper Ball Joints
Tie Rod
Rear Brake cylinders
Signal switch...
Drivers front bezel
The signal switch & bezel are going to take a while to source im sure, but then rest shouldnt be too bad...
S.

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1980 Volare Slant

Hey Sharp21,

Get those items fixed asap... ball joints are no fun when they come apart at freeway speeds.

You might want to look at the rubber suspension components. You have a start on a "suspension kit" from one of the companies that sell everything for your front-end in one complete package (which includes tie-rod ends and ball joints).

-Mac

Wait a sec, you flunked inspection because of a missing headlight bezel?!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I Know!
Its because the turn signal is held in by the bezel...
The signal switch doesnt click into the 'up' position, so that means getting into the steering column. Not looking forward to that...
Im definately gonna do the ball joints & tie rod right away. Im having trouble locating a full kit though... Any ideas?
Thanks
S.

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1980 Volare Slant

Yep. My truck would have failed here in NC when I first bought it because of the bezel.

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The Old Goat '83 D150 225-2

AKA Ice Titan

Ah, OK, that makes more sense.
Get with ESPO, www.espo.com .

For your bezel, try www.car-part.com

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Great sites!
I found the kit AND the bezel right away! The front end kit was $145 so that seems reasonable. Ive never worked on a front end before so I think itll be a good learning experience.
For the ball joints, I was thinking of just removing the control arms, then bringing them to the shop to install, as I dont have a puller..
S.

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1980 Volare Slant

A good days work.
Me & a buddy got the ball joints & tie rod replaced today. Tomorrow we are going to take care of the rear brake cylinders.
We are also thinking of changing the plugs & while we are at it, testing the compression!
Only problem, not quite sure how to do the compression test... I always did it on a bike with a kick start, but not sure on a car.
What kind of plugs should I get? Should I change the wires at the same time? The gap is 0.035 correct?
S.

Edit: Without going into an hei swap, is there anything I could do to the dizzy while im working on the ignition system?

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1980 Volare Slant

Got the rear brake cylinders replaced today. Pretty straight forward...
Except I dont think I bled the system properly. The brakes dont come on now until the pedal is almost at the floor! I pumped the brakes a bunch then held it, while my buddy opened the drain plug. Steady flow out & the master cylinders level didnt go down anymore. What am I missing?
Also changed the cap & rotor, as well as the wires. Messed up the order at first but luckily i had printed out the schematic from allpar.com/slant6
Couldnt get the plugs out, as it turns out I didnt have the proper socket...
Its getting there though. Just need the bezel & signal switch & im good!
S.

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1980 Volare Slant

Hi,

Don't pump the brakes when bleeding. Here is how I do it:

- Purchase a bleeding kit from auto-parts store (The $10 one with a small plastic bottle, a magnet, and some clear hose)

- Place the bottle on the framerail so it is higher than the brake cylinder.
Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder.

- Connect up the hose to the bleeder screw, loosen the bleed screw SLIGHTLY.

- Press the brake pedal slowly to the floor, then let up slowly.

- Wait 5 seconds, then repeat the step above.

- When the bottle is full, tighten the bleed screw, empty the bottle and add fresh fluid to the master cylinder. Then reconnect the bottle, loosen the screw, and start again.

- Continue this process until you can go to the floor 3 times in a row without having air bubbles come through the tube.

- Press down the brake pedal, hold, tighten the bleed screw.

- Doublecheck to see the master cylinder is full.

- Move to the other wheel.

Just when you think all the air is gone... you'll find more! But patience is key!

-Mac

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yeah I basically bleed brakes like Slanted O does, but Ive never had any luck with those bleeder kits he mentioned. I like the idea of the speedbleeders but havent tried 'em yet. One thing for sure there, though, is that if you try them, just CRACK them loose don't unthread them any more than u have to or you'll be drawing air thru the threads, and this isn't a good place for any thread sealants, especially being that you're sealed when u do tighten the bleeder.
When I bleed brakes, yes I start with the farthest wheel and work towards the master, but I get my helper in the car
I crack the bleeder and say "open"
Helper pushes the pedal to the floor don't stab it just push it down steady 'til it bottoms, then says "down"
I close bleeder and say "closed" which is the helpers cue to let the pedal up and repeat the sequence 'til I don't see any more air plus a couple more times to be sure.
You might have to go back n forth with the back cylinders a couple times since they are "T"d into the same feed line from the master depending how far upstream you have air.
Also be sure your star wheel is adjusted right to start off, if youre shoes are too loose to the drum that'll give a low pedal too. Yes it'll *eventually* self adjust *if* all is right with the related adjuster parts but it'll take a while and by then you could get "used" to a bad pedal and forget about it, not good either.

Dam Dan -- those things look to good to be true!! Great idea for a 1 man project!! How long have you used them?

Hmm, I was taking the screw right out, so thats probably my first problem...
Ill see if I cant get it sorted today.
Thanks!
S.

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1980 Volare Slant